Showing posts with label Boaters Card. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Boaters Card. Show all posts

Tuesday, 30 August 2016

BNM BOTTOM PAINT BOOSTER


ITS GREEN

BNM BOTTOM PAINT BOOSTER




1 US POUND  Retail $ 36.00 CDN

"NOMAD" is a brand we are developing with NEW PRODUCT vendors from around the world!

Nomad products must be non damaging to the environment and be guaranteed to work in any application. The first product that we will be introducing is "BOTTOM PAINT BOOSTER".
 
FOR SALT SHAKERS AND FRESH WATER
So what is Bottom Paint Booster? Well that is easy, for years commercial boaters in the Gulf of Mexico have kept a secret to virtually prevent growth on the bottoms of their boats. You may have seen these power boat owners using the same bottom paint brands as you are however they mix in an all natural blend of material to the bottom paint to double the effectiveness of the coating being applied. I am sure if you have read my articles you will know that I do not back any power boating product that is smoke and mirrors. It took me quite q while to get a salty dog to share his secret nd when he did you could have knocked me over with a feather, so simple but so effective. Year after year I continued to watch this additive in use, it is so effective that I thought there was no way! Yet it really does work, we painted half the hull without the additive and half with and the difference was obvious. The side with the Bottom Paint Booster was virtually clear of any barnacles and worm corral. I was sold on the material. The problem was would it work in fresh water as well as salt water, I am happy to say it does.
 
Bottom Paint Booster is cheap and will multiply the effectiveness of regular anti foul twice over. Because it is plant based it creates no chance of corrosion in either copper based bottom paint or tin based bottom paint. Any anti foul can use a BOOST!

HOW IT WORKS?

Bottom Paint Booster is a plant based product that is all natural, " you could if you wanted to sprinkle it on your fries". This mix of all natural plant product which discourages bottom growth both in salt water and fresh water. It is a dry mix that you add to the anti foul while still in the can, Boaters will mix booster completely into the bottom paint, then continue to apply the bottom paint in the recommended way. Booster is simply suspended in the bottom paint in the same way as the copper or tin component of the anti foul. If you are a boater who tries to stretch the life time of your anti foul coatings than Booster is for you. This product will continue to deter growth even after the paint has hardened.  
If you a salt water boater in the Gulf of Mexico you will experience less dive time for monthly bottom cleaning services. Your dive service provider will notice a difference.


Retail Price $ 36.00 CDN FUNDS Plus Freight

 HOW DO YOU GET IT

ORDER YOUR BOOSTER @ boatnutmedia@gmail.com  Tag: BOOSTER

WHAT IT WILL NOT DO

"Bottom Paint Booster" will not cause any color differences in the anti foul coatings. It will not pollute the water, or environment, This product will not affect the life of or designed process of wear. Booster will not make any difference to the application of or clean up of bottom paint.

This is not cayenne pepper if that is what you are thinking! 

 

BOTTOM PAINT BOOSTER IS GREEN


To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.






Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
 

Monday, 29 August 2016

TERRIBLE ACCIDENT / BE A RESPONSIBLE BOATER



 

A TERRIBLE ACCIDENT / BE A RESPONSIBLE BOATER 

 
Another needless death on the water this year, boaters have to start to obey the rules when it comes to lifejackets. To many boaters panic when there is a crisis on board, I am not saying that this is the case. Knowledge of boat operation and how to complete a Williams Turn may have helped here. To many boaters stash the safety gear away in places were in an emergency they are difficult to access. Boaters also fail to prepare tenders and throw rings in a way that makes sense for emergency use (learn to tie a proper quick release knot). This equipment is not a pain in the ass pile of boat crap or jewelry, when you need it you need it. This is a wake up call do not be that boater that says there by the grace of god that's not me. BE PREPARED, PRACTICE RESCUE, BE PROCTIVE and this kind of accident can end with tears of joy rather than tears of pain.

Colorado mom dies saving 2-year-old son from drowning in Lake Powell

Chelsey Russell.
Wellborn Sullivan Meck & Tooley/CBS Denver

SALT LAKE CITY - A mother was enjoying a family boat trip across Lake Powell when she heard a scream and splash. Her 2-year-old son had slipped off their houseboat and into the water.
Chelsey Russell, a 35-year-old mother of two from Lakewood, Colorado, jumped in to rescue her son. She managed to keep the toddler above water for five agonizing minutes until a relative pulled him safely back onto the boat.
But by that point, Russell was unconscious. She was pulled from the water and rushed to shore at the nearby marina, where bystanders and officials performed CPR Tuesday afternoon.
After about 30 minutes, they determined they couldn’t save the woman who just rescued her son.
 
 
Officials with Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, which encompasses the 186-mile-long lake along the Utah-Arizona border, said the boy was in stable condition and flown to a hospital about 200 miles away in Flagstaff, Arizona, as a precaution.
The houseboat had been traveling about 8 mph toward shore when the boy, playing with another child, somehow fell off, San Juan County Sheriff Rick Eldredge said Friday.
After Russell jumped in, her brother stopped the boat and hopped in after his sister, leaving Russell’s mother and at least one other child aboard.
The boat had kept moving after Russell went in and the man realized he was too far away from her and the child, Eldredge said. So he returned to the vessel to retrieve a motorboat they had been towing. The knots tethering it were so tight that he had to cut them with a knife.
Russell was in the water for at least five minutes before her brother could reach them and take the conscious toddler from her chest. Throughout that time, she kept her son above water, her family told authorities.
“She was holding the baby out of the water the best that she could,” Eldredge said.
The sheriff said neither Russell nor her son wore life jackets. They are required for boaters under 12, according to Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.
The sheriff’s office was waiting for the Utah medical examiner to determine Russell’s cause of death, but Eldredge said it was suspected to be drowning. He did not know when the medical examiner would make a ruling.
“There are no words to convey the tragedy of losing a loved one like this,” Teri Tucker, acting superintendent for the recreation area, said in a statement. “Our hearts are with the family and friends of the victims during this time of unexpected pain and loss.”
It’s the sixth death at the recreation area this year.
Russell’s co-workers at a Denver law firm remembered her as a “superstar” attorney, mother and marathon runner who competed in a 100-mile race last year.
“She was a better mom than any other mom I’ve ever known, including myself, and she would have done anything for her kids,” colleague Amy Seneshen told CBS Denver.
“She was a talented lawyer, loved by everyone in this firm,” attorney Keith Tooley said Friday. “She was just a rock star here. Her passing has just crushed us all.”
Russell leaves behind a 5-year-old daughter in addition to her 2-year-old son, according to CBS Denver.
                    

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.






Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided

Tuesday, 16 August 2016

MUST HAVE INFO 4 COBRA OWNERS

  MUST HAVE INFO 4 COBRA OWNERS

 

DO YOU HAVE A COBRA STERNDRIVE? IF SO YOU WILL WANT TO HAVE THIS! 







THIS INFORMATION FROM:

OMC Cobra Sterndrive Tech Info

Disclaimer

This website and its author are not affiliated in any way with OMC. See complete disclaimer below.

Introduction and History

When some critical Volvo patents expired, Outboard Marine Corp. redesigned their sterndrive product and named it the "Cobra." This sterndrive was mated to many different engines, and was routinely installed on a wide variety of boats. The first Cobra shipped in 1985. Everyone agreed the new Cobra drive was an improvement over the predecessor "stringer mount" drive, including many existing boat manufacturers that owned large inventories of the now-obsolete drives. Since these manufacturers didn't want to get stuck with un-salable sterndrives, they pressured OMC into limiting Cobra shipments until they could clear out their existing inventories. Thus, the Cobra didn't ship in volume until the 1986 model year. Thanks to Carl G. Craver for this tidbit. Some early Cobras ate their gearsets. OMC initially thought the clutch dogs were disengaging due to insufficient "bite" (interference cut) on the clutch dog teeth. OMC increased the bite angle from two to five degrees, and all subsequent Cobra clutch dogs have five-degree teeth. All known Cobra owners got a letter (133k) promising warranty coverage if any gearsets failed. Unfortunately, the five-degree clutch dogs did not solve the problem, and in the following year, OMC re-diagnosed the trouble as sticky shift cables. Cobra owners got another letter, inviting them to deliver their boats to an OMC dealer for a free redesigned cable. OMC would replace any cable that failed for free, and if a cable failure destoryed a gearset, OMC would replace the gearset too. The last time I checked (1997), a Cobra gearset was almost US$1000 (labor extra). OMC finally ended this extended warranty in early 1994. I belive the redesigned cable has truly fixed the problem. Alas, many people in the marine business clearly rememberd the gearset troubles, and forgot (or never heard of) the subsequent cable recall and resolution. Many of these folks are "still around," and they have contributed to the Cobra's (undeserved) troubled reputation today. The Cobra was produced until 1993, when OMC redesigned it to use a cone-clutch shifting mechanism originated by Volvo-Penta. I don't know if OMC purchased gears and etc. made by Volvo, or just copied Volvo's design. OMC was having financial difficulties at that time, and sold a 50% stake in their sterndrive business to Volvo-Penta. This new sterndrive is available with one prop ("SX") or dual props ("DP"). The new SX/DP drive retains many of the original Cobra castings. OMC has since been taken private by another company, and sold their remaining interest in the sterndrive business to Volvo. OMC and Volvo have agreed to supply parts to each other, but OMC has left the sterndrive business. OMC continues to purchase SX and DP drives for boats produced by OMC subsidiary companies. OMC went bankrupt in December 2000. Bombardier has purchased the outboard business and the Evinrude and Johnson brandnames. Bombardier is supplying Cobra sterndrive parts, with some price increases. My understanding is that OMC still exists as a legal entity, but they've closed their business, and sold off the rights to their products. I gather they still own their Waukegan headquarters, mainly because they polluted it badly and it's now a Superfund site.

Problems with the Cobra

Cobras have a reputation for eating their gears. This is usually due to a failed shift cable, and is easily prevented. Cobras are routinely maladjusted, compounding the problem. When the distraught owner of a failed Cobra wrote to Trailer Boats magazine, they brushed him off. I wrote a followup letter to Trailer Boats to explain what happened. My letter suggested the dealer was responsible, but it was never published; I suppose it was too long. You may read it here.

Current Status of the Cobra

Original and aftermarket parts seem to be readily available. Comments on rec.boats suggest that many dealers and technicians are still misunderstanding Cobras, and I expect that Cobra expertise will diminish over time. If you're buying a used boat, you're stuck with the drive already installed. If it's a Cobra, you can use the information here to get it shifting perfectly; properly maintained, it is just as good or better than the comparable MerCruiser products. The terrible reputation of the Cobra may depress the price of Cobra-equipped boats slightly. If you know how to adjust a Cobra, this is not an entirely bad thing.

Identifying Your Cobra

I'm aware of three varieties of Cobra: 1. Dog-clutch (128k), prop exhaust (labelled "OMC Cobra") The most common Cobra, and the subject of this website. The F-N-R gears are located in the bottom, in-line with the propeller. Note the top of the outdrive (portion exposed to water outside the boat) is relatively flat. 2. Dog-clutch, through-hull exhaust (labelled "King Cobra") Mechanically the same as #1, but louder. 3. Cone-clutch (cut-away view, 198k) (also labelled "King Cobra") This Cobra is very rare; I have never personally seen one. The F-N-R gears are located in the top of the outdrive, directly behind the engine. Note the hump on top of the outdrive case that accomodates these bulkier gears. The Volvo-style "cone clutch" in the 1993-on "King Cobra" is extremely durable, and it is not subject to the "bad gears" failure the others are famous for. The 1993-on "King Cobra" is also not otherwise addressed on this webpage; if you have one, buy the manuals, and take it to a qualified Volvo technician. Rejoice! Volvo-style gears are renouned for near-indestructibility. Note the water-pump located on the back of the F-N-R gearcase on the 1993-on OMC "King Cobra." I've been told that the Volvo SX and DP drives use a similar waterpump attached to the engine crank pulley (inside the boat). The rest of you with "dog-clutch" Cobras can continue reading :-) . You will need your serial numbers when querying OMC about your drive. OMC hid several different serial numbers in various places. See them all here (141k). This page was scanned from my 1998 Owners' Manual, and does not show where OMC hid the serial number for smallblock Ford V8s (302, 351), or for GM big-block V8s (454, 502).

Whats a Dog Clutch?

Clumsily explained here.

My Own Cobra Experience

My Cobra has a 2bbl 4.3L V6, and is fitted to a 1988 Four Winns Horizon 180, a typical 18-foot bowrider. This is my first boat, so it took me a while to realize what a serious problem I was facing. My Cobra gearshift was very stiff, requiring about three times as much force as it should to engage/disengage gears. I made many phone calls to OMC, accumulated documentation, talked to many people, and replaced parts until it improved. The main problem turned out to be the Transom Bracket Shift Cable; it seems that the cable OMC installed in 1989 during the recall was still on my boat, and it was failing. In retrospect, this should not have been a suprise; the cable was approximately nine years old! Today, my Cobra "shifts with a finger," as should any properly adjusted Cobra. My Cobra also had a stalling problem when cold; if you engaged a gear before the engine was fully warmed up (a ten-minute process), it would stall. This was an annoyance, as well as an embarrassment when there is a line of folks waiting to launch their boats. The stalling problem turned out to be a vacuum leak, coumpounded by a complete carburetor maladjustment. Of course, I didn't figure this out until I removed the carburetor for a rebuild (one of the hold-down nuts was loose). It appeared that a previous owner/mechanic deliberatly maladjusted everything on the carburetor in a vain attempt to compensate for the vacuum leak. Today, I can engage reverse and back off the trailer as soon as the engine is running. When reviving my boat from winter storage in 1999, I carefully re-visited the adjustment procedure, and I actually measured the cable drag of my transom bracket shift cable. It was too high; another hour of exploration led to a defective "retainer" (see part "R" in picture 11 here). I thought this was very subtle problem, but it's known and documented in the OMC service bulletins. I have some hints for Cobra owners that defy classification. If you have any of your own to share, please send me an e-mail.

Adjusting your Cobra Shift Linkage

Dave Brown (marina owner and frequent contributor to rec.boats) once said that a properly adjusted Cobra will "shift with a finger." I urge the reader to demand as much from your own sterndrive. If your sterndrive requires more than one finger to shift, get it fixed soon, because your gearset depends upon it. If you're serious about working on your sterndrive, I urge you buy all of the appropriate documentation, especially the "shop manual." I strongly recommend you get the original documentation from the people that built your equipment. I'm not impressed by the aftermarket manuals (Clymer, Seloc, &etc). The manuals should be available from your local dealer, or you can call the manufacturer directly and pay with a credit card. The price will be similar; locally, you'll pay sales tax, and if you order from the manufacturer, you'll pay shipping. Even if your shop manual is out-of-date in some respects (as mine is), it is a wealth of information, and very useful when diagnosing an obscure problem. I'm not listing part numbers for the documentation here because OMC may have different manuals that apply to different years of drives, and I'm too lazy to confirm or disprove this with OMC. However, here are the names of the documents I recommend you get: OMC Cobra Owner-Operator's Manual OMC Cobra Service Manual OMC Cobra Parts Catalog The third item may surprise you; it's a booklet of exploded parts diagrams for an entire sterndrive, with part numbers. This makes it very convenient to order parts from a dealer; you can order by part number, avoiding the usual colorful "thingy that connects the whatsit to the thingamgig" discussions. Below is a link to my by-hand transcription of an OMC document that explains how to adjust the shift linkage on the Clutch-Dog Cobra. I believe this procedure supercedes the procedure outlined in the OMC Cobra Service Manual. My copy of the OMC document is dated "10/17/96", and I believe it to be the latest and final word OMC will ever utter on this topic. Fortunately, it is reasonably clear and easy to follow, and I am very satisifed with my results. I hope this information is as helpful to others. When you read this document, be aware that it assumes you have a servicable Transom Bracket Shift Cable installed and adjusted correctly. If you are replacing your Transom Shift Cable, you'll need to adjust it with the ponderously-named Transom Bracket Shift Cable Adjustment procedure from the OMC Cobra Service Manual (page 11-16 in my copy). I have the two applicable pages 11-16 (290k) and 11-17 (288k) here. This procedure requires only common wrenches, a straightedge, and a ruler; note that subsequent Service Bulletins from OMC require you to use special Cobra-specific tools to make this adjustment.

Here is the legendary how-to-adjust-your-Cobra-shift-linkage document (what your dealer never told you, or didn't know):

OMC Cobra Shift System Adjustments for "KW-RG" (1986-1991) Clutch Dog Models (Stuart's transcription; 10k HTML) Here are images of the of the original two-page document, provided so readers may see it, and point out any errors in my transcription: OMC Cobra Shift System Ajustments for "KW-RG", page 1 (160k) OMC Cobra Shift System Ajustments for "KW-RG", page 2 (201k) This Service Bulletin describes how to recognize a defective spring in the Cobra shift linkage, and the p/n of the correct replacement. It cost me about US$2.50 for this part, but the new spring was still too stiff. However, it's straightforward to crunch the spring by hand to get a more appropriate tension: "Wrong Shift Interrupter Spring" (120k JPEG) This Service Bulletin just says to install the latest ESA (Electronic Shift Assist) module. When OMC converted from a two-degree clutch dog to a five-degree, the dog was more reluctant to disengage. The new ESA makes the engine idle slower and weaker to make disengagement easier. If you have the original two-degree gearset, and your ESA works, you probably don't need the new ESA. "Hard Shifting" (95k) This is a catch-all of typical problems that make the Cobra hard to shift. My own unit had none of these problems, yet I found these pages very interesting; some very obscure and un-intuitive problems are explained here: Diagnosis of Cobra shift problems, page 1 (140k) Diagnosis of Cobra shift problems, page 2 (180k) Diagnosis of Cobra shift problems, page 3 (197k) Diagnosis of Cobra shift problems, page 4 (155k) Diagnosis of Cobra shift problems, page 5 (170k) This is a page with pictures of some special tools OMC recommends for working on the Cobra shift linkage. According to OMC, you must have these tools in hand before you can adjust your Cobra shift linkage. My own experience is that none of these tools are necessary, although I'm sure they would make the procedure faster and more convenient. Recommended Tools for adjusting the Cobra shift linkage (76k) Just for completeness, here's a letter that came with some of the service bulletins that OMC graciously sent to me: OMC Letter to Stuart (55k) Here is the letter informing Cobra owners of the gearset recall. I I was fortunate that the original owner of my boat kept this now-historic document. I believe there was a subsequent Transom Bracket Shift Cable Recall letter, but I do not have a copy; presumably it was given to the dealer when the cable was replaced. OMC Gearset Recall Letter (133k)

Pertronix Ignitor

Many Cobras were built with non-electronic ignitions, using conventional points. These ignitions work fine, but the points are subject to wear, so the boat needs re-timing or even new points every season. You can end this cycle of maintenance by installing an electronic igntion retrofit; this is a gadget that replaces the points in your distributor. You install a plastic ring with magnets over the distributor cam, and the gadget senses the magnets as the distributor rotates. The beauty of the system is there are no points to wear and go out of adjustment, and I suppose it's a little more tolerant of moisture. OMC installed such "point-less" ignitions in the later Cobras (I've seen a '92 Cobra with factory electronic ignition). One option is to purchase this and mate it with your boat; in fact, OMC had a set of "kits" that included an electronic ignition gadget plus a new Electronic Shift Assist (ESA), all for the price of the ESA alone. I don't know if these are still available now that OMC is gone. Another, cheaper option is to install the Pertronix Ignitor(tm). (See http://www.pertronix.com.) This is problematic, as the OMC ESA expects to see its sense line dragged down to zero volts every time the points "close," and the Pertronix gadget doesn't do that. Your engine will run fine, but the ESA won't see the pulses it expects, and it won't work, so shifting is stiff. I telephoned Pertronix tech support (the phone number used to be on their website) and inquired. They said the OMC ESA was a known problem, and they mailed me a sheet with instructions for a simple circuit that would interface their gadget to the OMC ESA. Specifically, the circuit has two identical resistors, and two identical diodes, for a total of four parts. I visited my local Radio Shack, bought the parts, plus a small plastic box, and built the circuit. I installed it with my Pertronix Ignitor(tm), and my ESA works fine with it. The diagram that Pertronix sent me is here (100k). I grabbed this off their website some time back, and it subsequently disappeared. However, it had reappeared when I checked in early 2003 (look for "Ignitor," then "Support").

This Web Page

My intent in creating this web page is to spread what I've learned about the Cobra to other Cobra owners, that others may profit from what I've learned. I'm doing this as a Public Service; I'm not selling anything, or making any money with this information. I'm not trying to criticize anyone or force any changes in any corporate policies; I'm fighting ignorance. I did not create this web page to deprive OMC of documentation sales, or to save a few bucks for Cobra owners too cheap to buy the manuals, or to deprive OMC dealers of service business. If you own a Cobra, and you want to work on it yourself, you already know why you need the shop manuals. I realize, however, there are many people that are considering the purcase of a boat with a Cobra drive, or have been putting off the purchase of some manuals, or were just curious,& etc. Sadly, there are still many OMC dealers and independent technicians blissfully unaware of this information, and occasionally a Cobra gearset is destroyed due to such ignorance. Such incidents are expensive for Cobra owners, and they help propagate the "bad gears" story. For example, here is a letter (297k) from the March 1998 issue of Trailer Boats Magazine documenting such a case. If you spot an error, or have any suggestion for improving these pages, please send me a note. I'm reluctant to put my exact email address here, due to spamming concerns, but I'll spell it out: "stuart at hastings period org."

Legal Disclaimer

This information is provided as a Public Service; nobody is making any money from this. This website and its author are not affiliated in any way with Outboard Marine Corporation (OMC). OMC disavows any responsibility for this website, and the information herein. Neither OMC nor Stuart Hastings warrantee this information, and we accept no responsibility for any consequences if you attempt to apply any of the information stored here. OMC has looked at this website. When I created this website, I sent OMC an email describing this location and content. An OMC representative responded with this letter, graciously explaining OMC's position. I have already addressed the issues raised in the letter; you're reading the disclaimer. Please understand, dear reader, that I have reproduced OMC technical documents here, documents that OMC could claim copyright protection for. OMC has graciously agreed to tolerate this practice. Now that OMC is gone, I suppose Bombardier owns these documents; either way, I can't guarantee they'll stay available here forever. Given the fickle and ever-changing nature of the Web, this site will not exist forever. If you own, or expect to own, a Cobra sterndrive, I humbly suggest you make personal copies of any/all informtion contained here that seems useful to you. Created 19feb1999 Added Pertronix stuff, OMC bankruptcy, 03feb2003 Updated 23jun1999


To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.






Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided

Wednesday, 3 August 2016

COMMERCIAL & NON COMMERCIAL MARINE EDUCATION




 

COMMERCIAL & NON COMMERCIAL MARINE EDUCATION

 
 

COURSES ARE AVAILABLE IN TORONTO CANADA

 
 
ALL COMMERCIAL MARINE COURSES WILL BE OFFERED WITH A TRANSPORT CANADA APPROVED CURRICULM AND INTSRUCTORS. THE EDUCATION CENTER HAS ALSO BEEN APPROVED BY TRANSPORT CANADA
 
Commercial courses are designed for persons who have desire to work in the commercial marine industry. If you are using your boat for charters you must educate yourself to meet the legal requirements for legal operation.
 
 
ALL NON COMMERCIAL BOATING COURSES WILL BE OFFERED BY A TRAINED EXPERT IN THE REQUIRED FIELD. COURSES HAVE BEEN VETTED BY INDUSTRY AND OR GOVERNING BODIES.
 
Non commercial courses are designed to educate vessel owners or operators in various subjects related to vessel ownership. All graduates will receive a diploma and an opportunity to save on parts and insurance.
 
 
CLASS SIZES ARE LIMITED / NON COMMERCIAL COURSES WILL BE AVAILABLE ON LINE FOR INTERNATIONAL VESSEL OWNERS.
 
Please Link to  http://boatnuteducation.freeblog.site/  for all the information you will need.
 
 



To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.






Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
Connect with the Magazine web site 

Tuesday, 2 August 2016

WATER IN THE FUEL PT3/ MECHANICAL EFFECTS




WATER IN THE FUEL PT3/ MECHANICAL EFFECTS


DISCLAIMER:  BOAT NUT IS POSTING THIS INFORMATION AS AN ADDITION TO PART1/ PART2:
MECHANICAL FAILURES CAN OCCUR FOR MANY REASONS BESIDES CONTAMINATED FUEL....

Once you have removed the contaminated fuel: By running a motor with contaminated fuel you have created an increase in the probability of mechanical failures which will relate to the performance of your motor. The length of time you have been burning contaminated fuel will have a direct relationship on the seriousness of these mechanical failures. Some or all of these effects can show themselves immediately, progress slowly or lay seemingly dormant waiting for you to leave the vessel for an extended period of time. This downtime will likely be off season storage or simply an extended period of time were the motor is not started. Your motor may have seemed to run reasonably after the contaminated fuel has been removed however mechanical issues or failures may have already started to set in. Once you begin to run the vessel again theses failures can and usually do start to effect the motors performance. These mechanical failures can include ignition system failures, carburetor failures, fuel pump failures, injector failures, spark plug failures, sensor failures to name a few. This may help you understand how water or contaminated fuel can sneak up on you and suddenly or slowly (dictated by the amount of contamination) over a period of time create performance issues with your motor(s).

You can be out enjoying a day of cruising, all seems fine with the motor performance and suddenly it just will not start or the motor begins to loose power. If you have had or do have contaminated fuel be prepared to spend some time and money having to deal with related mechanical failures. If you have had the motor tuned up while burning contaminated fuel, which is a common error. Technicians and vessel owners quite of treat the immediate problem and miss the symptom. You may find that resetting idle and timing is necessary after you clean the contaminated fuel out of the system. The year and type of motor that your vessel has will set the base line for what systems will fail and why. A vessel which is all analog and does not have an ECM has a different less components to fail then that of a digital motor with an ECM this is due to the fact that the ECM constantly requires information from all over the motor through a series of sensors to change the parameters of the fuel air mixture and the spark to compensate for the contaminated fuel. These digital motors are either fuel injection and there is nothing harder on an injector than water contamination. So lets break down the failures you can expect on these two different types of motors.

 

Motors without an ECM and are carbureted:


Initial mechanical failures may include the following (all mechanical parts can fail on there own due to heat and other factors. You must keep in mind: you have either had contaminated fuel or have had a combination of these failures which will point you toward contaminated fuel tank)

1- Ignition Cap and Rotor: To burn the contaminated fuel the Ignition Coil, Distributor Cap, and Rotor will eat themselves up from attempting to create enough spark to ignite the contaminated fuel in the combustion chamber.

This mechanical failure can show up initially with a burnt coil wire, failed ignition coil or combination of both. The result of this is a no start.

2-Carburetor Failure: The carburetor has ingested so much contaminated fuel that the interior components are starting to corrode and stick.

This mechanical failure will begin with hard starting and stalling at an idle. The stalling will be a particular problem when shifting as the shift interrupter stalls the engine for a second to unload the motor from the drive or transmission.

3-Spark Plug Failure: The spark plugs have had to fire and ignite contaminated fuel.

This mechanical failure will begin with the motor missing and possible backfire when running. Bad plugs will also create a hard start or no start situation. You may also notice excessive fuel burn and will definitely see a fuel slick from the exhaust on top of the water. As the plugs fail they will no longer be able to burn all the raw fuel being sent to the cylinder.

 

Motors with ECM Fuel Injection and Throttle Body Injection:


1A- Fuel Pump Failure: An electronic fuel pump will suffer horribly from the water that passes through it.

This mechanical failure will begin to show itself as start issues and motor cutting out until finally the motor will not start.

2A- Ignition Cap and Rotor Failure: The cap and rotor fail for the same reasons as the above list 2  with the addition of the failure of the timing advance module

This mechanical failure will begin with the motor being hard to start, continuing toward running issues that will include power loss and bumpy idling. This is called hunting once ignition systems and motor sensors begin to fail, the computer (ECM) will try to compensate. This can lead to failure codes held in the ECM. Clearing codes will require the use of a software program to access the ECM memory. Failure codes can hinder normal operating modes, by restricting full operational parameters. Locking the motor in a safe operation mode, this restricts the motors ability to reach RPM rates over a fixed level.

3A- Spark plug failure: is the same with or without an ECM. See list 3 above.

4A- Fuel Injector Failure: Fuel injectors become damaged when water is introduced into them.

Fuel Injectors can show several signs of damage by contaminated fuel, you will  notice flooding as the injector will not create a nice spray but instead turn into a small fire hose. this will flood the cylinder with fuel and create a hard start condition, fowling the plug(s)
\
5A- Sensor Failure: sensors that provide the computer with the information it requires to make decisions with the way the motor starts and runs.

The main sensors that can fail from contaminated fuel are the MAP sensor or the manifold air pressure sensor, TPS throttle position sensor and the IAC. The reason that these sensors fail is that it is exposed directly to the flow of air in the intake manifold and can get contaminated with water or other contamination. Or in the case of the TPS can become damp with water around the throttle body itself. If a sensor begins to fail the motor can flood with fuel, or begin to react in strange ways eventually creating start issues. If a sensor is completely shot it can lead to a no start.

Water or contaminated fuel is not the only reason why some or all of these mechanical components  fail, however if you know that your fuel has been contaminated and the motor has been run with bad fuel. Or a series of failures have happened and you have repaired Ignition parts, plugs, fuel filter and the motor ran better but has started to run rough soon after "then take a look at the fuel". When hiring a service technician for motor running issues, the technician should always ask how old the fuel in the tank is. Be honest and let the mechanic know if there is old fuel or old fuel mixed with new. This can save time and money.

 

This is not a how to guide but rather meant to be informative for the vessel owner who has had contaminated fuel or has had a motor that has been difficult to get running correctly and has over looked the possibility of contaminated fuel.

 
 


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Environmental Impacts of Boating Pollutants


 
 

 

 
 
 

Environmental Impacts of Boating Pollutants

  
(Unless otherwise stated, material is from Connell and Miller 1984) Pollutant Sources and Characteristics Environmental Activity Environmental or Human Health Effects
Detergents Most cleaning agents, detergents and soaps
Oil spill dispersants 29
Breaks down oils and greases on boats

 
Accumulates in sediments
Broken down by microorganisms
 
Toxic to marine plants and animals
Impairs breathing in fish 18
Reduces amounts of oxygen in affected waters
Produces unsightly foam on the water surface
Marine debris Commercial and recreational boating 11
Plastics, food wastes, packaging, lines, nets, fish cleaning wastes 3
Plastics degrade very slowly
Some wastes become nutrients (see "Nutrients")
 

 
Can choke / strangle sea animals 3, 11
Ghosts nets, and traps endanger divers 3
Can transport harmful non native species 11
Snagged by props and engines 3
Ruins recreational beaches 11
Acidic &
Alkalis Substances
Battery acid, lye and other strong acids or bases in vessel cleaning products 13
Dissolves easily in water
 
Increases natural acidity or alkalinity of water by decreasing or increasing pH respectively
 
Toxic to marine plants and animals
Increases the toxicity of other toxic substances, metals, other pollutants and chemicals
Can irritate or damage skin
Metals Paint particles from hydro washing, metal shavings from engine wear, and consumer products containing metals
Dissolves according to water conditions
 
Accumulates in sediments, marine plants, and animals
Persistent in the environment
Some metals broken down by microorganisms
 
Toxic to marine plants and animals
Changes the food web in the marine environment by eliminating certain species
Copper (Cu) Used as a toxic agent in antifouling paints
Dissolves according to water conditions
 
Accumulates in sediments, marine plants, and animals
Persistent in the environment
 
Very toxic to fish when combined with zinc sulfates 16
Long term toxicity to marine plants and animals
Tributlytin (TBT) Still used as a toxic agent in antifouling paint on aluminum hulls, outboard motors & lower drive units 4, 16
 
Accumulates in sediments, marine plants, and animals 16
Persistent in the environment
 
Toxic even in small amounts to marine plants and animals, especially bottom feeders 16
TBT contaminated shellfish are dangerous to



Zinc (Zn) Anticorrosive zincs and paint pigments
Dissolves according to water conditions, which can make Zn more available to marine organisms 16
 

Persistent in the environment
 
Toxic to marine plants and animals, even small amounts 15
Oil / Fuel Normal boat operation, fueling, engine maintenance, spills, runoff, and bilge discharge
Dissolves slowly in water, clings to particles and sediments in marine environments
 

Broken down by sediment microorganisms22
Accumulates in sediments, marine plants, and animals
High accumulation in estuaries and intertidal areas
 
Some components toxic to marine plants and animals even at low concentrations 24
Some components cause cancer, mutations and / or birth defects
Behavioral changes in shellfish and fish 24
Discoloring and bad taste in flesh of fish 20, 25, 26
Dusts and sediments Vessel scraping and sanding, erosion during construction and urban runoff
Heavy metals, nutrients, hydrocarbons, etc. adhere to dusts and sediments
 

Sediment bound contaminants released to water if disturbed

General lowering of water quality
Burial of habitat, food and / or organisms

Nutrients Runoff, sewage, erosion, garbage & detergents containing (P)hosphorous or (N)itrogen

 
Used by marine plants and organisms for food (P,N)
Accumulates in sediment (P)
 
Increase in algae growth which decreases light and oxygen in the water (eutrophication)
(N) can be toxic in higher concentrations
Solvents Vessel maintenance & repair activities
Paints, varnishes, paint removers and lacquers as well as degreasing agents
Does not dissolve in water 13
 
Sink in water until they reach an impervious surface
Acetone lingers in air and is transported to sediment & water

Large amounts can cause dizziness, disorientation and unconsciousness in the user 2
Anti-freeze Used as engine coolant and freeze prevention during winter storage
Improper use & storage creates leaks or spills 13
 
Fate similar to solvents 13
 
Ethylene glycol is deadly to humans, pets & marine organisms in low doses 2
Propylene glycol (orange/pink color) is less toxic than ethylene glycol (blue/green color) and is preferred for use in boats 7




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Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
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