Sunday 24 July 2016

CAN YOU BUY AND RESTORE AN OLD PRODUCTION POWER BOAT

CAN YOU BUY AND RESTORE AN OLD PRODUCTION POWER BOAT






Restoring an old production boat such as a Bayliner or a Sea Ray has been a question that Boat Nut Magazine has been asked many times by Email in the last month.(There is no magic formula) Boat Nut has received requests to assist and inform potential boat buyers on the possibilities of buying and fixing or restoring early 1990s and late 1980s power boats.

So how do you decide if a boat is worth the money and effort to restore?

First of you must understand the environment that the boat was operated in and the environment the boat has been stored in. If you don't understand or take these two details into account don't buy the boat!

Unlike the automotive market the boat market does not seem to have a market for these boats at all. Production boats that have been without attention for some years are basically worthless. If you take the time to restore these boats they will get to and only hold the value that the market evaluators place on them. Possibly at some point soon we will see a restoration market appear, this will be due to the dramatic increases in new boat values. But not yet, you can always try to restore one of these boats for the love of the boat or to see what you can muscle out of the buyers market.(such as storm damaged boats) One of the two main problems that exist with these boats is the over all cost to repair and the fact that new boat technology has most boat buyers looking for bells and whistles. Many new boaters are looking for joy stick control, they have been sold on the idea that older technology boats are difficult to operate. " NO Thanks To All The Companies Who Push This Idea Onto The Market". (I personally like the idea that there is a mechanical tie between the shifters and the motor and the steering and the drive , rudders or motor.)

New Power Boat technology does not make for a better boat!


There are three core issues that rear their heads when it comes to older production boats and they are:

1- The mechanical systems. This is the motors, drives and other mechanical items that make the boat move and react in the water


2- The structure of the boat. This is all the stringers bulkheads transom, any of the structure that gives the boat strength and allows all the items and systems in the boat to be mounted.


3-Upholstery and canvas. This portion of a repair or restoration can set you back a spectacular amount of cash. It is not unusual for a replacement bimin top and curtains to cost more than the used operational boat does.


You need to understand the condition of and the possibility of repairing what you are looking at buying. There are outdrives for example that you flat out do not want to even own due to parts availability, failed engineering or flat out lack of production replacement parts available at all. What you must do is a complete self survey Boat Nut Media supplies this as a package to you based on the year model and make of boat. There is only a very small amount of information from the boat that Boat Nut needs to provide you with a system to educate yourself as to what the hell the boat you are looking at has left to give you. 

Every boat that has been denied service and maintenance for an extended period of time presents a different series of issues that you must be aware of. This also applies to different models and model years. No matter what decision you make be sure that you know you know do not think you know! Thinking you know will end up costing you too much money and ruin your boating dreams!

 

Contact Boat Nut Magazine @ boatnutmedia@gmail.com to find out how to order your custom self survey program so you don't get burned!


To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.






Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
Connect with the Magazine web site 

VIDEO CONTENT TRAILER BOATING / A must view for Trailer Boaters Pt2






 

TRAILER BOATING / A must view for Trailer Boaters Pt2


                                                  Video Addendum "to go with previous article"







To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.






Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
Connect with the Magazine web site 
 




Saturday 23 July 2016

BOT ROP "BOAT NUT MAGAZINE NEW PRODUCT TESTING"



Image result for announcement      "BOAT NUT MAGAZINE NEW PRODUCT TESTING"





Boat Nut Magazine and its readers must respect any new boating product manufacturer and/or distributor who will turn their product(s) over to the Boat Nut Magazine staff for "Real World Testing".(Real World Testing is: Boat Nut Magazine hands the product provided for testing over to a Boat Nut certified marine technician to take into the field. The product will be installed and tested to be sure that it meets the expected standards provided by the manufacturer.Boat Nut Magazine also assess the quality and value for the boating consumer)  Boat Nut Magazine has a reputation for a no nonsense, honest approach to the content we publish for our Power Boat readers. Any company who is confident enough to have their products placed in the hands of Boat Nut Magazine must have nothing to hide. The product must be of the highest standard and meet or exceed all of the promises that the marketing material promises. Should the product pass our tests and meet or exceed our expectations Boat Nut Magazine will provide the Boat Nut Media Boaters Seal of Approval. We believe that if a manufacturer is going to test with Boat Nut Magazine, they deserve the upmost respect  both in field testing and the information that we provide our Power Boat readers.
.




Congratulations to BOT ROP" retractable mooring line" on a unique new boat product from the United States. In todays Power Boat market place a new idea like BOT ROP takes years to get from the idea stage to the dock beside your boat. Any one with that kind of commitment deserves the opportunity to receive an honest test and opinion from boaters and media in the boating industry.


Boat Nut will announce it test results and product opinions as soon as possible!









Flush Mount-Eye









To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.






Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
Connect with the Magazine web site 

Friday 22 July 2016

HOW TO ELIMINATE WATER IN THE GAS TANK Pt 2



 

HOW TO ELIMINATE WATER IN THE GAS TANK  Pt 2

Any work on a fuel system requires the upmost of care and concern for safety. Do not tackle this job if you have the least bit of question. Hire a pro, however an understanding of the process is necessary so you can check the boat over after the first fueling . The boat owner will also want to check the tank are over the first few weeks for possible leaks.






There is more than one way to clean up a contaminated fuel tank, however the best way to really remove debris and water out of the fuel tank, is to hire the services of a fuel scrubber. Have you ever seen a portable fuel scrubber machine? What the scrubber does is it pulls the contaminated fuel from the tank though one line, runs the contaminated fuel thru multiple filters, and returns clean fuel to the tank through a second line. By doing this it moves the fuel completely around the tank and cleans the tank and the fuel at the same time. This is a service that works on diesel or gas. Bad diesel will become a burnable fuel again and gas will clean up and by adding octane booster you burn off the cleaned gas.


Image result for portable  gas fuel scrubber


If you know of, or can find the services of a fuel scrubber it is a good idea to have them service your vessel at least every two or three years (depending on the running hours) to clean the tank(s). Beware: Full scrubber services, if you have an older boat with a aluminium fuel tank (as the machine cycles the fuel) will remove corrosion and occasionally open small leaks in the  fuel tank. Be sure to have the company who sets up the scrubber, and provides the scrubbing service complete the removal of the sender unit at the fuel tank. The service technician should follow all the safety precautions I outline below and be the only person on the boat while the scrubber is hooked up.


The scrubber machine is portable and can be transported to the dock next to your boat. The machine will run for hours (the time that it needs to run is dictated by the volume and condition of the fuel) to complete the tank and fuel cleaning job.

 


So what if there is no scrubber available?



You will have to work with a manual vacuum pump and draw all the contaminated fuel out of the fuel tank to be disposed of in a responsible way (follow the local disposal laws). The way to do this is to remove the fuel sender from the fuel tank in question, and use this opening for your vacuum access. NOTE: ALL BOAT MANUFACTURERS ARE TO ALLOW AN ACCESS POINT FOR THE FUEL TANK SENDER Before you just undo the sender and remove it there are several steps you must take.


Image result for marine fuel tank sender


Make sure that there is no one on the boat before you start and keep the boat free of others until you are finished and tested.

1- Disconnect all the batteries on the boat
2- Make sure the shore power is disconnected at the dock
3- Make sure the area you are working in is well ventilated
4- Be sure you have the correct tool to undo the sender screws, the sender screws may require a clean up with a wire brush first as corrosion is not uncommon
5-Do not loose any of the sender screws and if you do or there are screws that are to corroded to reuse you must replace with the correct hardware. do not attempt to replace with any old screw as this is an area were you do not want leaks.
6-Have a correct replacement gasket for the sender on hand to reinstall.
7-When you remove the sender make a note on the direction the float arm faces
8-You must replace the sender facing exactly the same direction otherwise the fuel gauge will receive an unreliable signal.
9-If your are replacing the sender the measurements of the old sender are necessary for the gauge to work properly.
10-Once the sender is replaced and you add fuel be sure to make sure you have no leaks in the tank or the sender seat.
11- verify that you fuel gauge is working correctly
12- Anytime you open up the fuel tank you should mark your initials in the rub rail on the transom, this is a warning that the fuel system has been tampered with after the original install.



 Use only a manual vacuum pump do not use any power pumps or pumps that require a power source . The spark or heat created by any power source can ignite! The fumes from even bad gas are explosive! I recommend that you hire a professional to do this work as the risk of an accident is high.
 

When using the manual vacuum to remove all the fuel (you will need): To transport the fuel to a recycle location in certified gas cans for correct disposal at an authorized fuel recycle location. Once the fuel is removed you can take your time with the manual vacuum and remove as much debris from the tank as you can reach. Quite often there are two lengths of hose with the manual vacuum kit so you can reach along way into the tank. Once you have cleared out the fuel tank as much as possible you will need to reinstall the fuel sender. It is a must that the gasket on the sender be replaced. Boaters can buy these gaskets at your local marine parts store. (If the sender is corroded go ahead and replace it.)
Image result for marine fuel tank sender




Boaters will want to keep at least two spare filters on board after the cleaning fuel tank, as loose debris that you did not clean out will now be floating in the fuel. The filter will catch this debris and protect the motor. If you do not have an in line canister filter you will need to install one before you start to feed the motor with gas from the recently cleaned fuel tank.


Image result for marine fuel filter




After a self service fuel tank clean out you will also want to add fuel conditioner, not fuel stabilizer. The conditioner helps the motor burn raggedy fuel and suspends particles so the new fuel filter will collect it up without the debris getting to the motor
.


Please remember to keep an eye on the tank for the first few weeks after a cleaning to be sure that no weak spots in the fuel tank have opened up.













To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.






Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
Connect with the Magazine web site 

Wednesday 20 July 2016

Lost My Edge / Effects of a Damaged Prop and Skeg

 
 

 

Lost My Edge / Effects of a Damaged Prop and Skeg

Image result for boat prop pitch
 

 

 Props and Skeg that are damaged or out of tune.

 Most boaters believe that the reason for bad performance, issues with hole shot or top end flat lining of power must be related to the way the motor(s) is (are) running. There is some truth to this, if you have weak spark, fuel delivery (bad fuel) issue or the engine is failing to advance the timing then yes the boat will run like crap. However if the motors are running well and the boat is still a dog then you need to assess the prop(s) and the skeg.

Props will go out of pitch over time, it is a given the blades are trying to flex under load and they eventually loose their pitch. You should every couple of seasons take the props off and send them to a repair shop were they re-pitch (tune) the props for you. Should you all of a sudden notice a difference in the way the boat performs than you may have hit something or mowed through a chunk of wood (not even knowing it) This is not as uncommon as you may think. The prop is where all the work is done to move your boat through the water. You can have a perfectly tuned motor but if you cannot make the prop bite the water, it is all for not. A badly damaged prop will cause vibration through the boat and will damage bearings and seals at the prop shaft as that vibration is passed down the shaft.

 

 

What is happening to your boat when the blades are out of pitch.


Image result for boat prop pitch
 
When the prop is out of tune, the blades are trying to travel different distances through the water at the same time this will cause cavitation or aeration at the blades, this water can be so hot it will burn the paint off the prop. When this is happening the prop starts to slip, and the push of the prop is lost. An example of this would be at the top end of the throttle you push the throttle down and the engine just revs and there is no more push by the prop to match the increase in the RPM, or as you move up through the RPM range the speed of the boat does not move smoothly up with motor and eventually the speed catches up. This is all prop slip and if you look behind you in the wash you will notice excessive air or bubbles in the wash. The reaction is similar to driving with the drive trim to high.  Should you see that one or all blades of the prop have the paint worn of the faces of the blades (it will look like the prop was sand blasted). This is a sure sign of bad cavitation and the prop or the case has to be fixed or tuned. 
 
Image result for boat prop pitch
 
Cavitation can also be caused by the flow of water that the prop has to work in. The skeg at the bottom of the gear case can disrupt the water flow to the prop. If it is bent or damaged the water getting to the prop already contains air and the effect on the prop is cavitation. A damaged skeg will affect steering, create a pull to the right or the left, lack of low speed control, Bad pull to one side or the other (at low speed), slipping at high speed when cornering, large damage can also effect the flow of water to the water pick up used for engine cooling. As a matter of fact any damage to the lower gear case will be detrimental to the running of the boat and or the performance of the boat.
 
Image result for boat gear cases
 
Damage to the lower gear case , which includes the cavitation plate above the prop is not the way you want to operate your boat at all. Leaving damage not only effects the way the boat performs, but will lead to corrosion setting into the metal and in some cases were cracks have occurred contaminated gear oil, and additional gear case pieces falling off.


 

Aluminum props are continually flexing as you power up, and are the most susceptible to pitch variations, One blade or all blades maybe out of sinc with each other. If you have a chip or a bend in the blade or blades then you have completely defeated the props expected performance. These props are the easiest and cheapest to have repaired, If you have a damaged aluminum prop take it to your local prop repair facility and have them assess the damage and let you know if it can be fixed. You cannot just keep repairing props over and over there is a limit to how many large repairs can be done. Always keep a spare on board with the tools you need to change the prop. Never try to change the prop in water were you cannot reach the bottom easily, it is common to drop parts or the whole prop.
 
Image result for boat prop pitch
Stainless Props are less likely to flex under load which makes them a popular choice with boaters. do not assume that because the prop is painted black that it is aluminum. There are black painted stainless props. Stainless props have a draw back, if you are a new boater or operate your boat in a body of water that has a hard bottom such as rocks, beware. With an aluminum prop you can hit a hard object and knock a whole blade off and usually not damage the inner workings of the gear case. With stainless steel the blades are so durable that damage to the inner workings of the gear case is inevitable. The way to try and prevent this is with a break away hub inside the prop between the prop and the shaft so at the moment of impact the plastic hub will break into pieces and save the inner workings of the gear case. If  a stainless prop is actually wedged up against something I have seen the coupler on the engine sheer before anything else. This is were the drive shaft from the out drive couples to the engine the repair in this case requires pulling the drive and the motor out of the boat.
 
Stainless Props also need attention it is a good idea to have the stainless props checked and tuned by a prop shop if you require the shop can also custom tune these props giving you a pitch to better suite your needs let the repair shop know what you are trying to achieve in performance and they can adjust the pitch by a half a pitch up or down. This really works and the difference  in performance and fuel burn can be out standing. Stainless props can also be repaired if you do manage to bend or chip a blade, expect to spend more money repairing a stainless prop.
 
 Image result for boat prop pitch


Gear Case damage can in 90 % of the cases be repaired by the same repair shop that handles your prop repairs. Never assume that the case can be repaired however this is due to the fact that the heat from the repair can change the shape of or do damage to the inner workings of the gear case. Gear Case repairs must be done by someone with gear case experience! If the leading edge of the skeg has small chips you can file the edge to a clean as new finish with out removing the gear case from the boat. If you have a damaged gear case and plan to remove the case yourself and have it repaired there are a few TIPS for you.
  • Contact the repair shop and ask if they require the gear oil drained out before they fix the gear case
  • Ask for an estimate when they PU or when you drop the damaged gear case off
  • If they paint the repaired gear case ask the repair shop if they use zinc chromate primer, if the answer is no tell them you will paint the repair yourself
  • Always use the correct zinc primer on gear case repairs before you top coat
  • Do not paint with cheap spray paint buy quality paint for repairs.
  • Always pressure check the drive before refilling with gear oil to be sure that the heat from the repair has not damaged a seal.
  • Always test drive the repaired gear case before you head out on your first big trip.
By keeping the props and gear cases on your boat in good working order you will get the best performance they can give you. You cannot expect the same performance out of a three year old prop as you would a new one with out maintenance. Of all the money we spend on or boats to me the prop is the most overlooked for maintenance and the prop to your annual list of things to do and you will be paid back in fuel burn and in performance when your out on the water. Basic prop maintenance is not expensive and if you are a seasonal boater what better time to send the prop in to be tuned then when the boat is laid up for the winter!








 



To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.



Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
Connect with the Magazine web site 

 
 

HOW DO I KNOW MY TRUCK WILL BE OK TO TOW MY BOAT?


                                                            


HOW DO I KNOW MY TRUCK WILL BE OK TO TOW MY BOAT?



I am still taken back by a trip to the local boat ramp. The things I see are frightful. It is bad enough that the trailers are incorrectly set up for the loads being placed on them, deep launches with the tow vehicle half way into the water, the absolute lack of proper safety tie downs. One of the scariest things of all are some of  the tow vehicles that are being used to move these boats through our streets. You can move a trailer loaded with a boat with a ride lawn tractor but that doesn't make it at all safe! Its not the getting going that is the issue its the stopping and safe control of the trailer and the tow vehicle. There must be ten thousand video segments on boat launch and retrieval, are they all that bad(well maybe), boat launching is an experience skill no doubt. For gods sake if your going to own and operate a trailer boat which includes all those jet ski boaters who by the way are just as bad at the ramp then learn something about your tow vehicle and trailer and spend some time here. The wrong set up is not only dangerous for the owner of the tow vehicle, but is more dangerous for the rest of the traffic and pedestrians on the road. Have you ever dipped the back brakes of your truck in the salt water drove to the first traffic light and locked up the rear tires of your tow vehicle, it is unnerving.





The following information is to help you understand how to be sure the vehicle you are towing with is up for the job!




DISCLAIMER




This guide is for general reference; other states, province’s or municipalities regulations may differ.

This guide applies solely to the non-commercial operation of trailers. Trailer
combinations operated for commercial purposes are governed by different regulations
and standards.


HOW TO DETERMINE GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT RATINGS FOR RECREATIONAL

VEHICLES



If hauling a camper unit, towing a loaded boat trailer or fifth wheel, the following steps will help you in determining what your vehicle is capable of towing or hauling. This guide is intended to assist you. Should conflict arise please refer to the Traffic Safety Act and its regulations for your specific region.





Terms and Definitions




Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR)”; the GAWR refers to the maximum weight an axle

is designed to carry. The GAWR is a safety standard used to prevent overloading.



Manufacturers set the Gross Axle Weight Rating based on requirements set by

Transport Canada.(Or the governing body in your region)



Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)”; the GVWR refers to the maximum weight a

vehicle is designed to carry including the net weight of the vehicle with accessories, plus

the weight of passengers, fuels, and cargo. The GVWR is a safety standard used to
prevent overloading. Manufacturers set the GVWR based on requirements set by
Transport Canada. The weight on an axle can vary depending on where items are
stored.



Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR)”; the GCWR, sometimes expressed as the

maximum trailer towing capacity, may change with different engine, transmission, and

differential combinations, and is normally found in the owner's manual. The GCWR is
the maximum weight of the truck and trailer combined. The maximum trailer towing
capacity is the maximum weight of a trailer which may be towed when your truck is
empty (no payload), any load carried in the truck will reduce its maximum trailer towing
capacity.



Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)” is the number of kilograms derived by adding the weights

on all the axles of your loaded vehicle.




Net Weight” is the weight of a vehicle that is empty except for the maximum capacity of

fuel, oil, and coolant necessary for its operation. (ALSO referred to as “CURB Weight”)


(MVAR)


Conversion


To convert: Multiply kilogram by 2.2

Divide pounds by 2.2

Net (CURB) Weight of the Vehicle Used to Tow or Haul



Weigh the front axle and rear axle of the vehicle

Add front and rear axle weight to achieve Net Vehicle Weight

o For example:

ô€‚ƒ Front axle weight equals – 1200 kg

ô€‚ƒ Rear axle weight equals – 1400 kg

ô€‚ƒ Total Net Vehicle Weight equals – 2600 kg




Manufactured Gross Vehicle Weight Rating




Refer to the manufacturer’s Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (located on drivers side

door)




Refer to Diagram:








In this case the GVWR is 5171 kg, the front GAWR is 2722 kg and the rear





GAWR is 3175



Note:

o The front and rear GAWR’s added together will always be greater than

the GVWR


YOU SHOULD NEVER EXCEED THESE THREE RATINGS








Vehicle Payload



once the Net Weight and GVWR has been determined, subtract the Net Vehicle

Weight from the GVWR




o For example:

ô€‚ƒ GVWR equals – 5171 kg

ô€‚ƒ Net Weight equals – 2600 kg

􀂃 Vehicle Payload equals 2571 kg





Trailer Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)



The previous steps also apply to recreational trailers when determining its

carrying capacity




Locate the manufacturer’s GVWR label (located near the front of the trailer,

accompanied by the VIN number)




Subtract the net trailer weight from the GVWR; this will give you the actual

carrying capacity of the recreational trailer



 NEVER EXCEED THIS WEIGHT CAPACITY





EXAMPLES




Truck and Camper Unit
Manufacturer’s Ratings



GVWR = 2800 kg

Front GAWR = 1600 kg

Rear GAWR = 1400 kg





Vehicle Net Weight (without camper unit)



Net Weight = 1900 kg

Front Axle = 1200 kg

Rear Axle = 700 kg





Gross Vehicle Weight (loaded)

GVW = 3900 kg

Front Axle Weight = 1450 kg

Rear Axle Weight = 2450 kg





Vehicle Payload



GVWR 2800 kg – Net Weight 1900 kg = Payload 900 kg


THIS UNIT HAS EXCEEDED THE GVWR BY 1100 kg AND THE REAR GAWR BY


1050 kg











Truck Towing Recreational Trailer
Manufacturer’s Ratings



GVWR = 3800 kg

Front GAWR = 1600 kg

Rear GAWR = 2400 kg





Vehicle Net Weight (without trailer)



Net Weight = 2100 kg

Front Axle = 1200 kg

Rear Axle = 900






Gross Vehicle Weight of Truck (loaded)



GVW = 3300 kg

Front Axle Weight = 1200 kg

Rear Axle Weight = 2100 kg





Vehicle Payload



GVWR 3800kg – Net Weight 2100 kg = Payload 1700 kg


THIS UNIT HAS NOT EXCEEDED THE MANUFACTURER’S GVWR OR THE GAWR






*CALCULATE YOUR VEHICLES PAYLOAD



Manufacturer’s Rating (Door Post)


GVWR =

Front GAWR =

Rear GAWR =





Vehicle Net Weight (Empty)



Net Weight

Front Axle

Rear Axle





Gross Vehicle Weight (loaded)



GVW

Front Axle Weight

Rear Axle Weight







Vehicle Payload



GVWR – Net Weight = Payload





*To convert:



Multiply kg by 2.2

Divide lbs by 2.2


KEY FACTORS TO REMEMBER





You should not exceed manufacturer’s GVWR

You should not exceed manufacturer’s GAWR

Adding components such as air bags or overload springs does not allow these

rating to be increased or exceeded




When coupled to a trailer unit or fifth wheel remember each unit will transition

weight to the towing unit (hitch weight). Take this into consideration when

determining the GVWR and GAWR.



Make sure fifth wheel mounts and ball receiver hitches are rated accordingly and
do not to exceed the manufacturers ratings

Ensure tire pressure is maintained according to manufacturers specifications

You should not exceed the GCWR. Check your owner’s manual for the GCWR

(towing capabilities). If you tow a load that is too heavy for your vehicle, you

create a potential safety risk for yourself and others on the road. You may also
void warranties.





Tires





The original manufacturer of your vehicle and trailer will designate acceptable tire

sizes and type; any replacement tires should meet these requirements. A couple

requirements that apply to tires to be aware of:



o On-highway vehicles must use tires that are designed for on-highway use

o Tires have a rated carrying capacity, the sum of the total rated capacity for

the tires on an axle must be greater than the GAWR




o All tires that share an axle be the

same




BRAKING REQUIREMENTS FOR TRAILERS

When are Brakes Required on Trailers



If the trailer has a gross laden weight more than 910 kg

If the trailer weighs 50 per cent or more of the towing vehicle





Types of Brakes Required



The service brakes on a motor vehicle or on a combination of vehicles are

adequate if they can bring the motor vehicle or combination to a stop




o if the motor vehicle or combination is moving at 30 kilometres per hour and

loaded to capacity when the brakes are applied,




o on a level surface free from loose materials and consisting of dry paving of
asphalt or concrete, and




o within 10 metres from the point at which the brakes are applied

The emergency or parking brake on a motor vehicle or on a combination of

vehicles is adequate if it can bring the motor vehicle or combination to a stop




o if the motor vehicle or combination is moving at 30 kilometres per hour and

loaded to capacity when the brake is applied,




o on a level surface free from loose materials and consisting of dry paving of

asphalt or concrete, and




o within 16 metres from the point at which the brake is applied

The brakes on a vehicle that tows a trailer are adequate if they are capable of

controlling the safe movement of the towing unit





The emergency brake or parking brake system of a motor vehicle or combination

of vehicles must hold the motor vehicle or combination at a stop if they are

loaded to capacity and facing up or down a 20 per cent grade

Trailer Breakaway Device



A breakaway device is not specifically required in all legislation. The owner

must maintain the vehicle combination in a safe operating condition.




A person shall not drive or operate a vehicle that is towing a trailer unless the

trailer is attached to the towing unit by two separate means of attachment

designed so that the failure of one attachment does not permit the trailer to
separate from the towing unit



Each means of attachment must have sufficient strength to pull all the weight

towed by the towing unit







The secondary means of attachment must be capable of

o towing the trailer so that the trailer substantially follows in the track of the

towing vehicle, and




o preventing the drawbar of the trailer or the primary means of attachment from

touching the road surface



The lead trailer in a combination is the towing unit for the second trailer

A fifth wheel trailer does not require a second means of attachment






EXAMPLES



In these scenarios the trailer may or may not be required to have brakes but the brakes
for the vehicle combination are still required to adequately stop the combination (see
types of brakes required section, pg. 8).

Trailer Exceeds 910 kg and Weighs More Than 50% of the Towing Vehicle Weight

BRAKES ARE REQUIRED ON TRAILER

Trailer Does Not Exceed 910 kg and Weighs Less Than 50% of Towing Vehicle Weight
and Consists of a Single Axle


BRAKES ARE NOT REQUIRED ON TRAILER


Trailer weighs more than 910 kg and is Less Than 50% of Towing Vehicle Weight




TOWING NUMEROUS TRAILERS





Two trailers can only be towed if the lead trailer is a fifth wheel trailer with at least

two axles in tandem.




The length from the front of the towing vehicle to the rear of the last trailer can

not exceed 20 metres




The hitch fastening the second trailer to the first trailer must be fastened to the

frame of the first trailer




The longer trailer must be the first trailer



Trailers: Federal Lighting Equipment Location Requirements





Equipment Locations

















To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.


http://boatnutmagazine.com/





Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided

IMPORTANT NOTE: Every lamp, reflex reflector, and conspicuity treatment must be permanently attached in the location specified below and must comply with all applicable requirements prescribed for it by FMVSS/CMVSS 108.  The face of any device on the front/rear and sides should be, respectively perpendicular and parallel to the vehicles centerline unless it is photometrically certified at installation angle.  No part of the vehicle shall prevent any device from meeting its prescribed requirements unless an auxiliary device meeting all prescribed requirements is installed.
IN CANADA: Manufacturers and importers of vehicles must have the proper certification test records demonstrating compliance of lighting components with all prescribed requirements.

BASIC EQUIPMENT REQUIRED ON ALL TRAILERS

 DESCRIPTION  MANDATORY REQUIREMENTS
Area Equipment SAE Lens Coding Functional Purpose Quantity Colour Location Height mm (in.) from ground
 1   Tail Lamps (T) Indicate vehicle's presence and width Minimum
2
Red On the rear - symmetrical as far apart as practicable 380-1830
(15-72)
Stop Lamps (S) Indicate braking Minimum
2
Red On the rear - symmetrical as far apart as practicable 380-1830
(15-72)
Rear Turn Signal Lamps (I) Indicate direction of turn Minimum
2
Red or Yellow On the rear - symmetrical as far apart as practicable 380-2110
(15-83)
Rear Reflex Reflectors (A) Indicate vehicle's presence and width Minimum
2
Red On the rear - symmetrical as far apart as practicable facing rearward 380-1530
(15-60)
2 License Plate Lamp(s) (L) Illuminates license plate Minimum
1
White On the rear - above or at the sides of license plate No requirement
3 Rear Side Marker Lamps (P2, PC* OR P3, PC2*)
*photometrically certified at installation angle
Indicate vehicle's presence and length Minimum
2
Red Each side at rear as far back as practicable 380-1530 (15-60)
no max. for veh. under 2032mm (80"") wide
Rear Side Reflex Reflectors (A) Indicate vehicle's presence and length Minimum
2
Red Each side at rear as far back as practicable facing sideward 380-1530
(15-60)
4 4aFront Side Marker Lamps (P2, PC* OR P3, PC2*)
*photometrically certified at installation angle
Indicate vehicle's presence and length Minimum
2
Yellow Each side at front as far forward as practicable 380 (15) minimum
4bFront Side Reflex Reflectors (A) Indicate vehicle's presence and length Minimum
2




                   
Yellow Each side at front as far forward as practicable facing sideward 380-1530
(15