HOW TO ELIMINATE WATER IN THE GAS TANK Pt 2

 

HOW TO ELIMINATE WATER IN THE GAS TANK  Pt 2

Any work on a fuel system requires the upmost of care and concern for safety. Do not tackle this job if you have the least bit of question. Hire a pro, however an understanding of the process is necessary so you can check the boat over after the first fueling . The boat owner will also want to check the tank are over the first few weeks for possible leaks.

There is more than one way to clean up a contaminated fuel tank, however the best way to really remove debris and water out of the fuel tank, is to hire the services of a fuel scrubber. Have you ever seen a portable fuel scrubber machine? What the scrubber does is it pulls the contaminated fuel from the tank though one line, runs the contaminated fuel thru multiple filters, and returns clean fuel to the tank through a second line. By doing this it moves the fuel completely around the tank and cleans the tank and the fuel at the same time. This is a service that works on diesel or gas. Bad diesel will become a burnable fuel again and gas will clean up and by adding octane booster you burn off the cleaned gas.

If you know of, or can find the services of a fuel scrubber it is a good idea to have them service your vessel at least every two or three years (depending on the running hours) to clean the tank(s). Beware: Full scrubber services, if you have an older boat with a aluminium fuel tank (as the machine cycles the fuel) will remove corrosion and occasionally open small leaks in the  fuel tank. Be sure to have the company who sets up the scrubber, and provides the scrubbing service complete the removal of the sender unit at the fuel tank. The service technician should follow all the safety precautions I outline below and be the only person on the boat while the scrubber is hooked up.

The scrubber machine is portable and can be transported to the dock next to your boat. The machine will run for hours (the time that it needs to run is dictated by the volume and condition of the fuel) to complete the tank and fuel cleaning job.

 

So what if there is no scrubber available?

You will have to work with a manual vacuum pump and draw all the contaminated fuel out of the fuel tank to be disposed of in a responsible way (follow the local disposal laws). The way to do this is to remove the fuel sender from the fuel tank in question, and use this opening for your vacuum access. NOTE: ALL BOAT MANUFACTURERS ARE TO ALLOW AN ACCESS POINT FOR THE FUEL TANK SENDER Before you just undo the sender and remove it there are several steps you must take.

Make sure that there is no one on the boat before you start and keep the boat free of others until you are finished and tested.

1- Disconnect all the batteries on the boat

2- Make sure the shore power is disconnected at the dock

3- Make sure the area you are working in is well ventilated

4- Be sure you have the correct tool to undo the sender screws, the sender screws may require a clean up with a wire brush first as corrosion is not uncommon

5-Do not loose any of the sender screws and if you do or there are screws that are to corroded to reuse you must replace with the correct hardware. do not attempt to replace with any old screw as this is an area were you do not want leaks.

6-Have a correct replacement gasket for the sender on hand to reinstall.

7-When you remove the sender make a note on the direction the float arm faces

8-You must replace the sender facing exactly the same direction otherwise the fuel gauge will receive an unreliable signal.

9-If your are replacing the sender the measurements of the old sender are necessary for the gauge to work properly.

10-Once the sender is replaced and you add fuel be sure to make sure you have no leaks in the tank or the sender seat.

11- verify that you fuel gauge is working correctly

12- Anytime you open up the fuel tank you should mark your initials in the rub rail on the transom, this is a warning that the fuel system has been tampered with after the original install.

 Use only a manual vacuum pump do not use any power pumps or pumps that require a power source . The spark or heat created by any power source can ignite! The fumes from even bad gas are explosive! I recommend that you hire a professional to do this work as the risk of an accident is high.
 

When using the manual vacuum to remove all the fuel (you will need): To transport the fuel to a recycle location in certified gas cans for correct disposal at an authorized fuel recycle location. Once the fuel is removed you can take your time with the manual vacuum and remove as much debris from the tank as you can reach. Quite often there are two lengths of hose with the manual vacuum kit so you can reach along way into the tank. Once you have cleared out the fuel tank as much as possible you will need to reinstall the fuel sender. It is a must that the gasket on the sender be replaced. Boaters can buy these gaskets at your local marine parts store. (If the sender is corroded go ahead and replace it.)

Boaters will want to keep at least two spare filters on board after the cleaning fuel tank, as loose debris that you did not clean out will now be floating in the fuel. The filter will catch this debris and protect the motor. If you do not have an in line canister filter you will need to install one before you start to feed the motor with gas from the recently cleaned fuel tank.

After a self service fuel tank clean out you will also want to add fuel conditioner, not fuel stabilizer. The conditioner helps the motor burn raggedy fuel and suspends particles so the new fuel filter will collect it up without the debris getting to the motor
.

Please remember to keep an eye on the tank for the first few weeks after a cleaning to be sure that no weak spots in the fuel tank have opened up.

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Affects of New Power Boat Sales and Buyers

 

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 Affects of New Power Boats Sales and Buyers /  Changes are coming to boating

 After 2009 and the economic blow out, the Power Boat market has made a shift that I believe has changed our market forever. Boat buyers are buying boats that support lifestyle choices, not so much buyers who want to stick their toe in the boating pool and try it out. Boaters are more educated and know what they want. A great example of this was one of the Canadian Boat Shows last year numbers at the door were down but boat sales were up. Not as many tire kickers more persons who new what they wanted from their investment. As this shift to serious buyers takes place we will see the boats go through drastic changes to keep pace.

Power Boats will no longer be a miss match of components from many suppliers they will become systems where the boat is a Mercury or Volvo (for example) package from stem to stern. This will mean that all panels, switches, gauges and pumps will be all supplied by one vendor. Power Boats will become more of a platform construction, similar to cars. Over all design, colors and layouts will, and already are becoming standardized through the industry. As more value and concern is placed on the environment the amount of companies that will be able to make substantial investments in R& D and keep up with the required changes to standards will fall off.  Power Boats will be so similar that other factors other than the name on the side of the boat will become the motivation for purchase.

Boaters will be making purchases based on warranties, resale value, retail prices, and after purchase cost of ownership. New boats are a costly venture, so boaters will be buying boats that come with inclusive services, so that after the purchase of the boat there are fewer out of pocket costs as possible. Buyers will want all the bells and whistles included in the purchase price. Why do you think the dealers who sell boats now have a eye to the marinas. If they can include docks and slips in the deal up front then you buy the package selling the lifestyle and controlling the stresses and cost of boat ownership. A boaters time at the boat is valuable they do not want to have to source service, marinas and after market items to meet their needs. One boat, One deal its not the price its the convenience.

If you are buying or own an older boat you need to consider how new boat sales and the structure of these deals are going to affect you, because they will. Marinas are closing their yards to outside technicians and providing in house services for their clients and these agreements are  being done more and more by the dealers. Equipment to be able to service new product, which will become used product is restricted. This will and in  many cases already has made your choice of service provider for you.

There is also a shift amongst  boat buyers today, city boaters are more apt to buy a PWC than a runabout, the overall cost of ownership is lower and you don't need a big slip or driveway to put it in. There are four kinds of boaters (does not include PWC owners),
 1- Cottage owner (The boat is an accessory to the lifestyle of being on the lake)
 2-  Cruising boater ( The boat takes me away to destinations)
 3- My boat is the cottage boater ( The boat is my getaway and I don't even care if it runs)
 4- The boater who loves the boating lifestyle but can not afford all that goes with it (The boat is older but I love being here anyway)

Dealers cater to boaters 1 thru 3, boater 4 is generally buying the older used boats that the dealers generally won't broker

 Since the late 1980's Marina's used to have a mix of all of the above boaters but even this is changing. Marina's are now a mix of boater 2 and 3 and very little 4. Boaters 2 and 3 are the marinas priorities and new boats play a huge role in this decision. Marinas require the high disposable income clients to carry their costs. It you want to watch a marina die start to move out the newer boats and their owners. They may fill the slips still but the boating experience diminishes. A great example of this is Ontario Place Marina, not because the park closed but boaters 2 and 3 did not want to bother with all the added stress that a partial (fuel and pump out only) service marina brings them. Now that they have decided to stay open they have a mountain to climb to get these boaters back.    

The whole industry is affected by new boat sales, new boats create quality used boats, certified service,  boating supplies and cash, lots of cash. I hate to admit it but the days of the independent service provider are in the books, and the book is closing. New boats are changing the service landscape, if you are not up to date with the new technology you will left in the dust. So boaters who have owned a boat for years and are comfortable with a marina and independent service providers fantastic. However I predict that change is coming and if you still  haven't felt the change that new boats are creating you will soon.

                                       We Will Make A Boat Nut Out Of You

                                                                                    Author RP

 

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided

Trust Your Boat?

 

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                   TRUST YOUR BOAT?  Don't let your boat own you, own your boat

It is that time of year when the vultures show up trying to steel boats at great deals as the season is over and boats are now considered money pits. THE OFF SEASON. Deals are made based on spring sea trials or the risker deal were boats are purchased based on value and how they appear. Appearance the slippery slop of boat buying, the boat is so clean, its like new. The previous owner hardly put any hours on the boat and has been anal about maintenance. You can't take the boat for a test ride. I would never buy a new boat unless I could take it out and put it through its paces.
As a boater the most important thing you must be able to do is trust your boat. If this trust does not exist then you mentally chain yourself to the dock. That kind of mental block will take all the fun out of boating, the first question is usually what is my boat worth? Boaters start to question there choices.

If you suffer a realationship break down with your boat not only will it take its toll mentally, but you will start to listen to all kinds of advise and problem solvers who will un nerve you even more. Marinas are full of dockside experts who generally don't have a dam clue what they are talking about. The money will flow out and every time that you believe you have solved the issue your boat will let you down again. The leading causes of  unrealiability are water in the fuel, shift issues, tune ups, overheat, and corrupted components (parts that have been swapped or only part of the work is done) or a combination of these issues. In most cases the technician and boat owner come to an agreement and the repairs are done a step at a time instead of all at once, or the repair person fixes a genuine problem and doesn't realize there are other issues compounding the problem. New boats provide computors to compensate for many issues and will advise you were the problems lie ( plug and play). Older boats rely on a process of elimination which can be frustrating for all parties involved. These are areas of repair that boaters least like to pay for. They would rather add a accessory or have the boat washed. Money spent attacking these issues is not something shiny to look at. There is a belief like to that because they don't run the boat very much these items can't be necessary.

Here are some of the issues that I have faced in the last two seasons:

• Water  and silt build up in the gas tank (Won't start or stalls at low RPM)
• Coil wires breaking                               (Starts randomly and just cuts out when ever it chooses)
• Distributor caps corroding                    (Stalls randomly starts but runs rough and has no power over 200 rpm)
• Bad ground wires                                  (Cranks slowly and gauges fluctuate. trim pump slow) 
• Melted water pump housings plugging water flow (New impellor motor gets hot on one side and wont run well at all)
• stuck thermostats                                    (Over Heat with stall)
• Contaminated fluids                                (Builds over the top oil pressure or no oil pressure)
• Trim pump relay failure                         (Drive trim works randomly)
• Stretched shift cables                             (Cant find neutral when shifting)
• Corroded lower units                              (Stiff shifting , oil slick reservoir bottle alarm)
• Bad batteries                                            (Motor will not perform no top end hard time to start, other engine dies when I try to start)
• Wrong bolts on water pump housings    (Overheat keep changing impellor)
• Vacuum leaks at carborator base plates  (Engine idles up and down and is lacking power, stalls at idle speed)
• Fuel filters                                               (No start engine cuts out)
• Timing advance modules                        (No power at the top of the RPM range)
• Spark Plugs                                             (Stalls no power running rich)
• Corrosion                                                (No start, gauges dead, eating starters and alternators)
• Over heat causing head gasket failure    (Got hot now consumes coolant)
• Wrong starter                                           (Sounds horrible when starting or wont start at all)
• Broken Bolts                                            (No shift at all)
• Shift interrupter                                      (No start, thumps load through shift cant find neutral)
• and the list goes on and on

A stalling issue which is the one that really makes a boater uneasy and can be contributed to any number of these issues, stalling can the worst problem to diagnose (you can chase this issue around and around).  For boaters who really enjoy their time on the water this is the most fear full issue, made worse if you have a single engine. At least 11 of the failures on the above list can cause the motor to stall. Over a dozen of the failures listed above are considered maintenance and are most often over looked because the boat doesn't see many hours. WRONG.

LOW HOURS only contributs to these isssues as the motor doesn't get a chance to get hot and dry out engine components or the engine compartment. Run your boat regularly and you will have a better more reliable boat. Bad fuel is  a sign that the boat doesn't see or did not see any hours at all you have to burn off and turn the fuel over this issue can really be a pain in the ass. If you have a third fuel tank on board have it pumped out and disconnected if you never use it. Don't spend all your money on dock jewelry spend some on fuel and run the boat regularly. If you intend on using the boat as a cottage then either set the boat up for this usage or expect the boat to bite you in the wallet when you suddenly want to go out. If you are looking at buying boats in the off season have a plan to spend cash in the spring don't expect to drop the boat and all will be ship shape (some numbers have been released that say to be prepared for as much as 50% of the boats purchase price on a larger boat). If you purchase a boat that has low hours and you start to use it expect issues to pop up! The same applies if you buy a boat which has been up graded with a lot of new bells and whistles.

Your boat will talk to you if you let it, it will tell you how it is feeling and what it needs. Just listen you can develop a relationship with a boat they are quircky and some times give you attitude. Some days they just do not want to go (remind you of anyone). Keep your problem solving  simple stupid, boats live in the worst environment constant movement, shock, weather, and long periods of no use. It is said that 90% of breakdowns are operator error and there is some truth to that statement however failures will happen due to the environment. If you prepare a service plan that is not full of holes, educate yourself or find a technician you can trust, and do more than make sure the shore power is plugged when you are away for extended periods. You can keep your boat reliable and know that the boat you love can be trusted.

Don't let your boat own you, take steps to own your boat!

                                                                                                           Author  BW

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

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Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided. 

12 Volt Battery Addition

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12 VOLT BATTERY ADDITION,  BUYING BATTERIES AGAIN/ Add on accessories pt 2

 12 volt battery capabilities are always a concern on any power boat no matter what the size. I have broken the requirements and  battery set up into five different groupings. Each one of these battery set ups and tips will describe different types of power boats and there battery set ups.

1-    The first battery set up is a small power boat which is designed and sold to be a trailer boat. This boat will be living its life when not out on the water on a trailer. This type of boat will come rigged with a single start battery system, no charger (the simplest set up). This battery set up works fine, provided the boat comes out of the water at the end of each time you use the boat. A boat that does not have to live in the water all the time escapes several issues that effect battery life. When the boat spends its stored life on the trailer the drain plug is out and the boat drains free of any rain water or boat wash water. The boat does not rely on the battery to power the bilge pump to get rid of excess water when you are not around. As long as the battery in this set up is keep charged it will likely out last a battery in a cruiser as it is not being constantly charged up.
If you put this same boat in the water full time at the dock, the boat now can become filled with rain and any water that finds its way to the bilge area is pumped out by the bilge pump. The water will get in even with the canvas on. The reason for this is the requirements to seal all the hardware on a smaller boat are different than a larger boat (a bow rider for example requires no sealant on deck hardware). If it were to rain all week  for example the bilge pump would have to come on several times to keep the boat from filling up. Trailer note (if you leave the drain plug in the boat while you store it on the trailer you can run into the same issue). After a week of rain you show up to go boating and the battery is low on charge. So after a month at the dock the battery will probably be dead. Out comes the jump box to start the boat, you do this several times and you have done damage to the battery, and you find you are buying batteries every year.

The immediate fix to this is install a second battery. Does this fix the problem?  No its does not by installing a second battery all you are doing is extending the battery life which means that the bilge pump will run longer and your boat will start more often. If you install a new battery with an old damaged battery the new one will continually drain to the old battery. You must remember that newer motors require a full battery charge to start, if you are starting your motor on low voltage you are harming the starter, electric fuel pumps  and or any other systems on the motor that require 12 volts and full battery amperage to start. If you continue this low voltage starting you will be doing long term damage shortening the life of the equipment on the engine. To prevent this from happening install a battery switch with your two batteries at the very least, this will allow you to isolate a start battery. If you tie two batteries together with out a switch you are going to wear down the batteries equally . You will have to be sure that when you install the battery switch that it is the correct one a two position battery switch 1/2/ALL/OFF, and you must also make sure that the battery you isolate is the start battery be sure that it does not have any other boat system wiring attached to it. This is a is engine start only battery ( the only other wires attached here are for the trim pump). Keep in mind that the only system on the boat that must be hooked directly to the house battery (this is the accessory battery) is the bilge pump(s). Be sure that every circuit that leaves the battery is fuse or breaker protected, if you have any wires hooked to the battery that do not have circuit protection remove them , pick up and install a circuit protection devise protection device.

SINGLE MOTOR ONE BATTERY

                                  

                    

SINGLE MOTOR WITH TWO BATTERIES



2-    The next battery set up is the one you will find in the small cruiser classes of boats. These are boats which are designed and sold to be kept in the water all season. Some of these boats are considered over night types, these do not have a 120 volt shore power system installed from the factory, but are wired for dual batteries complete with a battery switch. This design will have a location for a start battery and a deep cycle house battery. It is important that the correct batteries are in the correct location. You can start a boat with a deep cycle battery, however the cranking amps needed at start are not instantly there for the motor. a start battery does not have the recovery of a deep cycle (deep cycle batteries take longer to completely charge and if they are low you can quite often turn everything off and the battery will have a natural recovery of some power this is why they are accessory battery). Be sure you match the start battery with your engine(s) needs not enough cranking amps will harm the motor. Your battery switch allows you to keep the start battery isolated from the systems such as radios, accessory plugs lights etc. This will give you the peace of mind knowing that even if the house battery goes down from using the systems for extended times your boat will start and with the reselection of the battery switch after start up the alternator will charge the low house battery.

How do you use the battery switch as a tool to keep the start battery fresh and ready to go?

 The first thing you must do is have a clear understanding of which one of the batteries is the start battery and which one is the house or accessory battery. Once you determine the start battery mark the switch with an S beside the number that it corresponds to (the battery switch is marked 1  2  ALL and OFF)
If your start battery is attached to the number 1 terminal than number 1 is the start battery and number 2 is the house battery.
So here is how we use the switch: When you get to the boat and you are prepared to start the motor select number 1 or the start battery once the motor is running switch the switch to all. This allows the alternator to distribute the charge it is producing to both the batteries at the same time. When the engine is running leave the switch on all. Now when you stop and are using the boat to entertain or for leisure time switch the battery switch to number 2, now your boat is only using the house battery for all the 12volt power on board. You can continue in this position until you run out of power or are ready to go with the motor again. When you are ready to start the motor flip the switch back to number 1 position and start the motor and again set the switch to all and the engine will charge both batteries again. When you are finished boating and heading home turn the battery switch to the off position this will mean that only the bilge pump will be powered up. This is the safest way to leave your boat as the bilge pump needs to be able to get power for as long as possible, this is also good security as the boat will not start with the switch in the off position. If you do leave anything on by accident the battery switch will take care of that.

 However there are exceptions to this rule and this is were most boaters get caught!!

  The exception is if you have a 120/12 fridge, or other accessories have been added like amps and electronics. A lot of boaters or installers will wire direct to battery which can be a no, no! I have seen amps wired to the start battery. Nothing but the battery switch, trim pump and charger should be hooked to the start battery period. If you look at your start battery there should only be three red wires maximum and four black wires maximum. I will explain on a small runabout they can and do use the battery as a terminal block in other words they bring the boat trim pump, bilge pump, boat main, and the motor lead to the positive terminal. The motor trim pump and boat grounds to the negative terminal this is due to the lack of accessories that this type of boat has. If you start to load up your small boat with chargers and accessories you will have to install terminal blocks as you wont be able to get a nut on the posts any more. Never use the battery as a terminal block for a pile of wires, this is particularly true after you install a charger. your battery will not last long at all. On a small cruiser boat you should have three red wires to the positive terminal of the start battery , and they are charger wire, the wire to battery switch and the trim pump wire that's it no more. The negative terminal should have the charger wire, engine ground wire, trim pump ground and a jumper or bond wire to join all the negative battery terminals together. If your boat has any more wires than this on the start battery you will need to trace them and move them to another location to either pick up power or locate a ground. As boats get older and have been passed through many owners and technicians hands the batteries start to look like one of those plug adaptors at home with a dozen extension cords run to it, a wiring night mare which is a fire hazard. In many cases what happens is one or more of these wires have a draw on them. Which means that even if you turn off the battery switch there is a power drain on the battery, someone by passed the switch or terminal bar and ran a circuit directly to the battery. The worse culprit for this is a fridge, it will kill a battery in mere hours. So if you loose 120 volt power (shore power) to the boat the fridge automatically cycles over to 12 volt. If the fridge by passes the battery switch that you have turned off, the battery or batteries will only last a day or so and be stone dead. Now you have no bilge pumps or any protection on the boat.

The problem with this is once the batteries are stone dead the charger can be turned back on but it will not recognize that there is a battery to charge and the system stays dead. Most new chargers require a return of power from a battery to go ahead and charge. So a dead battery will not start to receive a charge at all. If a battery goes completely dead you will need to use another charger to start the recharge program on the battery and then reattach the battery to your on board charger.

TWIN MOTORS GENERATOR  WITH FOUR BATTERIES





3- The third set up is the cruiser system set up , this is where the boat has a full 120 volt shore power system and multiple batteries with possible generator system. This battery set up can appear to be more complex and will usually have multiple battery switches and a minimum of three batteries and if rigged with generator four batteries. The reason for the multiple battery switches is to prevent the two alternators charging a single circuit. This set up is not really complex you just have to break it down into its components, to understand. The port motor side which usually has the house battery (s) attached to it, and the starboard motor side represented by a single battery start system. The generator is a simple single battery start system. In 99% of the cases these battery switches never get touched the boater relies on the charger to maintain the 12 volt systems and simply replaces batteries as they give up over the time of boat ownership.

So why do batteries in my car last for years and in my boat I am replacing batteries every couple of years? Well there is a simple answer to this question when we leave our boats unattended with all the systems still running the batteries are taking a constant charge, when this happens the batteries never get a chance to cool down. What is happening?, the batteries are slowly being boiled dry. This is why technicians are checking the level in the maintainable batteries on your boat and having to add distilled water to them, once you start having to do this the batteries are already dieing a slow death. You can boil your batteries dry, the batteries will get so hot they will explode. If you board your boat and smell a sulphur smell immediately shut the charger down. Not only are the batteries affected by this constant charge problem, but over charged batteries will eat up battery chargers. Do you ever wonder why alternators and starters are a constantly being swapped out on boats. These part failures are quite often due to bad batteries. The effects of overcharging and bad batteries are felt all over the boat. If boat owners would shut the chargers down once in a while and give the system a break instead of leaving on the charger until they start the motor thus immediately the alternator begins to charge, providing no charging break for the batteries. If the batteries were given a charging break they would have a longer life. A lot of the time the charger is on, it is not charging the batteries. The batteries are probably fully charged, but instead the charger is trying to maitain a load. (something is on drawing a small amount of power from the battery).

All the same rules that we have previously discussed apply to a multiple battery system. Problems associated with battery life include, jumping accessories directly to the batteries, bad terminal connection and not using the switches to shut the boat down when you are gone for days at a time. On a multiple motor multiple battery system you have shore power to keep the necessities running you don't need to leave the 12 volt system on all the time. If you use the 12 volt systems in the correct way you can extend battery life and have a safer boat.

Most boaters don't understand or know the correct way to use the battery switches in the boat to maintain and extend the life of thier batteries.

4- Chargers and Batteries. I cannot stress enough the importance of having the correct batteries in the right places. Start batteries in the start location, deep cycle batteries in the house location and clean correct terminal attachments. Do not have a pile of cables on your batteries. When it comes to the order with which the wires go on the batteries, there is a rule here to do not just put them on in any order. The first wire on the terminal is always the charger wire. The reason for this is many chargers have a heat sensor function that shuts the charger down in the case of a hot battery. This function only works if the battery charger wire is the first wire on the battery. If the charger wire is second or third the heat will travel up the other wires first (use the larger wires as a heat sink) and the battery will burn up before the charger can recognize a problem. I am sure if you have owned boats for long, you have seen burnt cable ends or damaged terminals on batteries, this is why.(incorrect order of wires on the battery post)

SOME TIPS

1-If you are going to swap the batteries to gel cell batteries you must be sure the charger is compatible

2-Run the charger wires directly to the battery not to the battery switch.

3-Be sure all the negative terminals on all batteries are tied together.

4-Do not use cheap automotive battery cables, they will rust away every time.

5-It is necessary to use actual stainless steel nuts and not wing nuts to attach cables to the batteries

6-Be sure each positive charger wire has s fuse in line

7-Always use correct size wires at the battery

8-Batteries will freeze if not at a full charge

9-Battery boxes will collect water make sure that they are dry and clean

10-Be sure your batteries are all tied down with battery tie downs

11-Inspect your batteries regularly (once a month) don't just look, check the terminals. Loose terminals will melt away under load.

12-Keep a container of distilled water on board if you have serviceable batteries and check the levels every month or so.

13-Do not always believe a battery load tester if you think the battery is a problem change it, it is always a good idea to keep a spare fully charged battery on board if you have the room to do so.

14-If you have a generator on board and the batteries go down remember the generator battery is isolated from the rest of the boat you can start the generator and switch the battery charger on and after twenty minutes the engines will start

15-Keep all battery wires the correct length and do not run them close to heat sources



16-Clean terminal connections remove any corrosion from wire ends and terminals

     If you have a fishing boat or a boat were there is a bow thruster trolling motor or loads of electronics and there are extra batteries installed, have a technician or some one other than your resident boater expert explain how these batteries are wired were they get a charge and how the system works. This is true in the case of an emergency were you need to disable a system due to heat or fire. Be informed and you will have a safer boating experience.

If you have any questions about your boat contact Boat Nut at boatnutmedia@gmail.com

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

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Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided. 





Alph Drive Service Information

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ALPHA DRIVE SERVICE INFORMATION, What do I need to know about my Alpha Drive

What is an Alpha Drive and how do I know this is what I have on my boat. Well first of all Alpha Drives are a Mercruiser product which are normally coupled with a four cylinder, V6  or a small block V8 motor. However in the eighties there were combinations with big bock V8 motors on performance boats. The Alpha Drive is the smaller drive which is easy to understand when next to a Bravo Drive. Alpha Drives are not available with dual prop. The prop diameter on the Alpha Drive is 14 to 15.5 inches. Alpha Drives are available in two models there is generation 1 drive and generation 2 drive (your drive serial number will be the sure fire way to confirm what you have). I could write a small book on the engineering differences, however we will stick to the required basics, which gen 1 and gen 2 are the same.

Transom Housing

The first things that you need to know are:
 

ALPHA DRIVE

1- Alpha Drives have the raw water pump to cool the motor mounted in the drive between the upper and lower gear cases.( Right in the middle of the drive cases).

 2- You must shift the boat into forward to be able to remove and install an Alpha Drive. This is because the shift linkage faces forward and aft only in forward gear.( shift dog). The shift dog is brass and if you are not in forward and pry on the drive it can end up bent.

3- Remove the prop first, this will prevent the possibility of turning the prop shaft which turns the drive shaft. If you do not turn the upper or main drive shafts the drive will slide right back into place (as the splines on the drive shaft have to line up with the splines in the engine coupler).

4- You need to use Mercruiser high performance gear lube in your Alpha Drive, not using Mercruiser fluids can shorten the life of and damage the drive. At the same time pick up some 24C lube for the prop shaft, shaft end lubrication and water pump lubrication.

5- All drives are protected by anodes to help prevent corrosion be sure you have replaced any that are in bad shape, be sure you order the correct anode package for your drive. The serial number and the water that you boat in ( fresh or salt) will determine the correct part numbers. Fresh water and Salt water require different corrosion protection.

6- Every year it is a good idea to change the water pump impellor, unless you have picked up sand or some contamination then you may have to replace the entire water pump housing. Always have a spare impellor on board and always match the impellor or water pump kit to the serial number of the drive.

7- To clean the drive before you start any work pick up some hull cleaner or a small jug of muriatic acid. You can spray the acid on with a small pump sprayer and rinse off within a couple of minutes (do not leave the acid or hull cleaner to dry). You must wear eye and breathing protection when using acid of any kind

8- Never sand the whole drive down and repaint just blow in the areas that need touching up and always use zinc chromate primer where needed first. As so as you sand the factory finish you promote corrosion.

9- Get your self a clean container for all the nuts and hardware do not loose any pieces

I recommend that you pull the drive at least annually

Before you remove the drive drain the gear oil out of the drive. You do this by placing and oil catch tray under the drive trimming the drive down until the drive is horizontal. Shift the drive into forward with the motor off. You will find two screws on the drive one down on the bullet and one near the top of the upper case, remove the bottom drain screw and then the top vent screw (if you have an internal reservoir on the motor this will drain down also. The longer you let the drive sit draining the better don't rush it. You will be looking at the gear lube as it drains out, if it is milky at all or is anything other than the color of the new high performance gear lube you have to refill it you will want to get a repair shop to check a sample of the drained gear lube and most probably the drive. ( be sure you hang onto the drain screws each one has a ring seal on it that must be replaced every time you remove the drain screw). There is the possibility that this is where the contamination is coming from and if it is this is a cheap fix.

Once the gear oil is drained you can begin to remove the drive, before you remove the drive be sure you have a drive install gasket kit from your local supplier. Make sure that you give them you drive serial number so they can get you the right kit. it is a good idea to order an extra kit they are not expensive and you will probably rip a gasket on your first attempt at putting the drive back on.

To inspect the bellows (the rubber boots which protect and join the outside transom shield to the drive housing). These boots wear over time, can be damaged by animals (chewed), and if water gets in the shift cable or U joint bellows  it will freeze and split in the cold. If you do see water it is time to change the bellows.

If you do launch your boat and have a leaking bellows trim the drive all the way down to reduce the amount of water you are taking on.

 At the same time you can check the condition of:

The Gimbal bearing. This is the large bearing in the middle of the drive shaft bellows that the drive shaft slides through to connect with the coupler at the back of the motor. You can reach in and roll the bearing with your fingers it should roll smooth and easy , and should not show signs of corrosion. if it doesn't roll right or is rusty you will want to change the bearing. There are tell tail signs that this bearing is failing. !

1- You will here a growl sound at low speed coming from the transom area.

 2- A bad bearing can cause a thumping sound from the same area, these sounds will start as soon as you start the boat as this bearing is always turning.

 U JOINTS. The U joints are the same as you see on the drive shaft of your car. The u joints allow the drive to trim up and down. U joints also allow the drive to run while trimmed in different positions. You are looking for really loose u joints (clunky, sloppy), damaged u joints or corroded u joints. If the bellows has had water in side than the u joints have been constantly wet and they will rust. If you run the boat in gear with the drive trimmed above the upper trim limit you will break off pieces of the u joint and these pieces will create holes in the u joint bellows. It is possible to explode the u joint connection if you ignore this area of the drive train.  You can tell the u joints are gone when you are driving the boat and when you steer hard over you here a clacking sound. If you unsure of the condition of these parts get a professionals opinion.

If you are going to split the drive in two to replace and service the water pump impellor here are a couple of tips:

1-There is an large anode on the cavitation plate some times it is flat and other times it has a small skeg on it. If you have the skeg style note the location it is mounted in as the skeg anode can be set up to take some of the steering drift out of the boat.

2- When the upper and lower gear case are apart you will see a small o ring at the gear oil passage that passes between the upper and lower gear case components, be sure the new o ring (orange in color) is in the correct location before you bolt the two pieces back together. This is critical.

3- If the skeg on the bottom of the case is bent or damaged now is the time to get it fixed. This damage will cause cavitation at the prop and affect performance of the drive.

4- Be sure when you change the water pump impellor you apply lots of 24C on the impellor and the housing as the grease will be the only lubrication the impellor has until it picks up water.

5- Be very care full not to over tighten any nuts or bolts pay attention to manufacturers specs.

6- When lubricating the lower drive shaft or the upper drive shaft use just a thin coat of grease on the splins only and stop short of the end of shaft . Too much grease can create a situation were you hydrolic the shaft and the pieces will not go all the way back together

What is the worst thing that can happen if you do not service the bellows and drive?

This boat sunk over a broken bellows!

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided.