WHAT BRAND OF POWER BOAT SHOULD I BUY ?

              

   WHAT BRAND SHOULD I BUY?

PART 1 NEW OR USED

 

 When questioning the choice of literally hundreds of power boat makes and models on the market today, many first time boat buyers feel that they have neither the knowledge or experience to make an informed decision. (Other than boaters or boater representatives who consider themselves experts.) Generally new boaters have no place to turn for honest answers.

                         

Most persons in the industry do not want to answer the "Which boat is best" question, providing  answers such as " We are just as confused on that topic as you are".  Industry Quote "It would take a cast of dozens of experts just to survey the field of new offerings every year, not to mention hundreds more experts to assess the existing millions of used boats. That's a feat no one has yet managed to tackle. That's why no one will give you a list of recommended boats. We can't just line boats up on a counter top and evaluate them; they're too big and the boats can't come to us, we have to go to them." This is a cop out the truth is a lot closer to every brand has some exceptional models and some real crap models. Some brand names are virtually valueless, others are sister companies where more than one brand name maybe manufactured side by side in the same plant. Or corporate cousins that share common materials and build technology. It is easier to remove some of the failed brands (builders who are out of production or have been out of production for years) from your list right up front. What you have to do is narrow the perimeters of your needs and budget. Then go ahead and sort the good brands and models available from the bad

 

So what do potential buyers do? They refer to the internet, brokers and persons they trust to aid them in their decision. For all of you who use internet searches for serious information on boats, you aren't going to find very many sites that will lay it all out there for you. Quote From Another So Called Boating Expert "Not many people are willing to risk getting sued by publishing negative information. It's far easier to go with the flow.

It's been said that the Internet has been largely responsible for creating better informed consumers. This comes mainly though complaints on forums and web sites like "My Crappy Larson" at Griperadio.com. We agree. Nowhere else can information be rounded up and transmitted so rapidly and made available to such a wide audience. But it has also led to a higher level of wariness by first time boaters that have cruised the forums and have heard the horror stories of first time buyers who have gotten burned."

SUED for publishing negative information! If a boat builder ever did that to Boat Nut I would scream it from the roof tops, (I have had enough dealings with these companies to be able and allowed to form an opinion of their boats.) Give me a break the truth of this is: There is no money in the truth. Here is how things really work the industry supplies "media releases and media prepared boats" which are then copied into the boat reviews that large media place on their sites or in print. Going with the flow means taking the easy way to cash, and admittedly these business' and sites cost money and time to run. So as a first time buyer who has your best interest at heart. Not very many boating sites are going to give you a real world impression of a power boat. It is not fear, the fact is the sites and magazines that post review information are designed and ran by marketers. Boat Nut Magazine is one of the few that is not ran by a marketing expert, we are industry insiders who have years of intimate experience with hundreds and hundreds of boats.

 Plain and simple we do know of crap boats and we do know that there are brands that shouldn't be holding their value. Are there experts out their who you could trust when making a buying decision? Hell yes there are. Reading a few are articles and watching some video is not enough you have to get more involved ask questions of the publishers that you are reading. See if they provide another piece of marketing bull crap, or if they answer you straight forward and directly with confidence. Email, call, check out the responses that you receive, this is how you will discover who you can trust. Forums and Glitzy Magazine Covers do not make experts and beware of those who refer to themselves as "captains". ( I hate how that term CAPTAIN has been stolen by every dam self appointed boat expert who thinks they know it all) Honestly if there were this many experts in the boat market you would be knee deep in TO MUCH INFORMATION. There wouldn't be a hole in the  power boat information super highway, yet there is a big hole. Many boaters on forums are already pissed off that their boat is broken, and in all likely hood its operator error. This is not were you want to receive advise on what boat to buy! Brokers are not much better than mass boating media, they want to steer a buyer toward the boats that they have listed, they do not want your money running out the door. Some will tell you the sky is green just to sell a boat. Boats are a want, not a need, your taste is not another's taste, your use of a boat is not the same as someone else. You must be true to yourself about what you want to use your boat for and the experience you are looking for on the water. Yes most boaters get it wrong the first time around, think of your first boat as a dry run. This is with or without great information. It will not take you long to figure it out, you will know more about the way you will use your boat. Your second boat will be the one you keep awhile and the third and so on. Please do not get discouraged by the stories of getting burnt or hearing a particular boat that you like is a terrible purchase. Opinions are like ass holes every one has one. 

 

How do you make the decision? Be informed about the specific boat you have settled on. It is the suggestion of many boat industry sources that you buy a used boat first and save that new boat purchase until you have some boating experience under your belt. This is not the only way to gain boating experience you can rent a boat or borrow a boat if you have a generous friend. Make sure that your family will enjoy their time on the boat! My family is truly split two who love boating, and two who are not big on boating. This fact changed the last two boats that I owned the boats were smaller in size and set up for overnighting only.
 

Of course there are those who must only have a new boats, and I say more power to you. But do not expect that new means less loss of value, faster resale or less time being repaired. A decent used boat is a great way to start out at your boating lifestyle. Being educated with the make and model you choose will make a huge difference in your experiences on the water and when your ready the ability to make that leap to your second boat. I know many first time buyers who have paid way, way to much for used boats that truly were not a resalable. They made a decision with out consulting non bias information providers and making a quick purchase with out understanding three basic rules.

1- Do not buy based on a brand name only

2- Highly modified or remodeled power boats can be horrible on the water 

3- Boat makes and models that are unpopular in their region will be more difficult to sell.
4- Know how to read a Hull Identification Number and never buy numbers one two or three at least.

 Region places a bigger role than you think in a boats value. Models that have been well marketed by  dealers in your region for many years are the boats that are more in demand by your regional used boat buyers. A manufacturer that has been well marketed like Sea Ray have created such a buzz that there is always a demand, not because they are a better power boat, but due to the fact that boat sales are always handled in a way that seems to pit one brand (most popular, largest dealer) against another. Example SEA RAY and BAYLINER these where sister companies for years using the same build procedures and power plants. However Sea Ray owners always seem to beat up the Bayliner brand owners. Brands had to bash Bayliner they were the largest volume power boat builder in the world, more boats built than Sea Ray at one time. All this brand bashing yet they are both Brunswick Companies.

 Selling boats is a war. Get educated and experienced do not become a casualty!

.

 QUOTE FROM INDUSTRY "Oh, we've heard the arguments about buying someone else's troubles a hundred times over. But since when don't new boats have problems? How many times does the typical new boat owner have to lug his boat back to the dealer for warranty work? Much too often, if our experience is any indicator.

The fact is that there are huge economic and reliability advantages in purchasing a boat that has been pre owned and pre tested, if I may use that term. A boat that has been used for a couple of years has been out there banging around on the waves. If there's anything that's not right, anything that's going to break, it is likely to have already done so. If the deck is going to pop loose from the hull because it was fastened with aluminum rivets, a quick glance at it will surely tell the story."

 I could not have said that better of course the reference to the deck and hull joint may be a stretch. A key role in that pretested boat theory, a boat with a couple of years of operation, is hours of operation per year. Did the boat motor(s) even get broken in, did the warranty issues that may have appeared get reported or fixed.  Were there any recalls. Did the boat receive the first correct services and last is their a warranty time left and is it transferable. These are all very important questions that an informed buyer will know to ask, or at the very least how to get the answers. 
Never assume that the two or three year old boat has had the bugs worked out and fixed that is a huge mistake! Some boat owners are drowning from the moment the boat arrives at the dock and the boat simply does not get the attention that it deserves needs or mandatorily requires.

 

I have to have a brand new boat,  on the new boat I am covered with a nice warranty blanket? OK, but what will it take in time and aggravation to have any of the work done. How disappointed will you become if you spend well in excess of a hundred grand and have the boat tied up in repair in the first year. Boats are one of the last big ticket products that are still largely hand assembled with technology that has had limited testing. A great example of this is the Volvo ONE DRIVE the reverse I/O. Boat builders had to highly modify the existing boat hulls in production to make this drive work. With vast amounts of what appears to be trim tabs but are actually anti cavitation plates. I have completed warranty repair work around the globe for many of the big brand manufacturers and seen a lot of owners upset that they made that new boat purchase . You have to be realistic, new boats are not without issues. The uphill battle when these issues are serious can be daunting.

The economics in considering a used power boat make even greater sense. Industry Quote "Take a cue from larger boat buyers. Over 90% of all boats over 30 feet sold every year are USED BOATS! Ninety percent. And we're talking here boats of up to ten times the value of the typical entry level runabout. Take it from the more experienced boat owners who know value when they see it; used boats are a tremendous value. Let me explain why.

Let's say that the new twin outboard, twenty foot runabout you're looking at can be had for $40,000 straight out of the box. A comparable model that's four years old sells for $20,000. That's a  whopping $20,000 difference. And for whatever may be wrong with the used one, that twenty thousand will cover the cost of repair of any problems many times over. And the higher the price, the greater the new/used price spread is going to be."
 

And keep in mind that part of what you are paying for with a new boat is the fancy dealer show room, as well as his profit.

What greater inducement can be offered a first time buyer? And even if your purchase does turn out to be a mistake, it will be a mistake that only costs about half as much.

There is truth to that statement but the fact remains that you are actually putting a percentage of that new boat cost directly back into the customer service departments budget to complete the required volume of repairs that the new boats of that model year will require. It is more of that new boat price tag than you think!

 That twenty thousand dollar difference referenced to in the above statement does not make any sense to me. Unless you are steeling a forty thousand dollar boat for twenty grand. then are you not buying a twenty thousand dollar boat and preparing to sink a load of cash into it that you will never see back. I get the principal but that does not take away from the fact that you must be an educated consumer to buy right. Not just a boat buyer who is willing to accept dropping a pile of cash over time into a used boat, and how that could work out to be cost effective boat buying decision making?

Current Internet Boater Information

 

Outboard -vs- Stern Drive  Many people still aren't clear on this point, yet getting the right criteria to make a decision is simple.

• If a boat is to be left afloat in sea water, outboards are the best option. Why? Because outboards can be lifted up out of the water; stern drives can't.
• Stern drives are fine for fresh water and those who keep their boats in dry storage.

Boat Nut Response:   

Out Board VS Stern Drive:   What a crock that is lets try and clear this up for the above site

 

First of all there is no way to entirely clear the water even with an outboard the transom bracket and the base of the trim ram is always in the water. In fact trimming the motor in and out of the salt with out a rinse will promote, not stop corrosion.

 Stern Drives are designed for salt water emersion they are not any better or worse than an outboard motor.

 

As a matter of fact the reasons power boats are rigged with outboards rather than stern drives is boat performance, manufacturers place outboards on the back of boats to provide the best performance for a particular hull. It has nothing to do with salt or fresh water.

 

Some boat builders will offer a stern drive or outboard package for the same boat, the reason for this is retail price and the ability to hang an outboard and gain more free room deck space at the aft deck area. Hence more seating or more open deck for fishing. The choice between the outboard or inboard outboard is boat design, performance,coat and deck usage.

 

Current Internet Boater Information

Closed -vs- Raw Water Cooling Systems   This applies to any type of inboard power. This choice is also a simple one.

• If you're operating in sea water, the closed cooling system should be considered mandatory. Sea water does the same thing to your engine as salt on the roads in winter does to your car. And sometimes the corrosion damage occurs very, very quickly.
• If you're operating in fresh water, you do not need a closed cooling system and there's no point in paying the extra cost.

Does this apply to outboards? No. The outboard motor sits vertically on the drive unit. When the engine stops, all the cooling water runs out by means of gravity, so internal corrosion is not the same problem as it is with inboard/stern drives without closed cooling systems.

 

Boat Nut Response:

 

Closed Cooling VS Raw Water Cooling:   Again where do they get these recommendations from?

 

Any inboard or inboard outboard can be closed cooling, and no there is no simple choice as a matter of fact new technology makes that choice for you!

 

Closed cooling works well any where you boat with the exceptions of any body of water that gets warm enough on a regular bases to prevent the heat exchanger from properly transferring the heat from the motor to the fresh water in the exchanger. A great example of an area where closed cooling doesn't work well is in Florida in the gulf of Mexico where the water is to warm to cool motors down enough. These older motors will always run warmer than they should.

 

Damage from corrosion in salt water or high mineral content water will come along if you do not have the correct anodes, or enough of them, and failing to be a responsible owner and failing to flush the motor regularly.

 

New motors require a constant running temperature to perform properly if this is the case then closed cooling maybe a not be an option you get closed cooling that's it.

 

Closed cooling was an expensive option to have added to your motor when new however if you did add the closed cooling system, winterizing is easier, water passages in engine blocks will not end up with sand in them, and overall corrosion around the entire engine is reduced no matter where you are boating.

Out boards are now and have always been susceptible to corrosion. Not all of a new four stroke outboard automatically drain area such as thermostat housings can and do hold some water.

  

BOAT MAKES

    Industry Quote:" When it comes to quality and separating the wheat from the chaff, this is not an easy task. Asking others is one way to get information. Try taking a trip to the local marina or launching ramp on Saturday and start asking questions. But beware that most boat owners take boat ownership personally. Many are reluctant to admit that the boat they own is not all that it should be. If a guy says that his boat is the greatest thing on the water, he may not be giving you the whole story. Assuming he knows the whole story. Not many people are willing to admit to making a mistake."

I disagree there are ways top spot quality in a moment if you are around several boats, here are a few tips :

1- Deck hardware: A dead give away for a boats quality, look at the cleats and the bow rail. The stainless hardware is a place where a boat builder can cheap out and still get the job done. If you see quality in stainless you will know it chunky and not pieced together

2- Colored hulls: Take a closer look at the color is it foggy and cloud like, this is a sign of lower quality gel coat materials.

3- Upholstery and Canvas: Another area where boat manufacturers can save money Cheap vinyl will start to fail in the first couple of years. Look at areas where you may rub the vinyl boarding the boat or areas where hands are on the material all the time. If the boat comes with a bimini does it have side curtains is it a complete enclose. Is there a boarding area were you do not have to step on cushions to access the cockpit area.

4- Component: Assembly of more inexpensive boats will probably have many parts added to it or components to create lines and features. A quality boat has very little to no added crap mounted less is definitely more.

5- Open a hatch and look under the deck cheaper boats are usually rough and unfinished

6- There are a whole host of tells to know if a boat is quality that's just a few

 

 A boater who admits that their boat is a pile of junk is probably so irritated with the boat that he/she will probably be glad to show you or tell you exactly what the issues are. You will however have to take this information with a grain of salt as some of these boaters will find everything with the boat to be a horrible plan or product. These boaters may complain and bitch however the source of the complaining could be affordability of ownership or repair which has compounded the issue creating a hate relationship with the boat. Ask a few pointed questions, and know the questions to ask, do not think you know what to ask, know you know what to ask. An unhappy owner can be a source of accurate information. Only if the owner can give you some very specific reasons why he/she dislikes his boat. The same rules apply for the boat lover, in some cases this is ego and attitude more so than reality. There are many boaters who do not want to admit that their boat has had any issues at all.

 

Industry Quote: " The price is the other major part of the equation. Generally speaking, repeat, generally speaking, higher prices indicate  higher quality. The problem is that with a new boat, it's tough to prove that claims to higher quality are really valid until the boat has been put to the test".
This is so true with todays market more than at any other time models are changing design so rapidly that the truth will only come with time. Quality of materials and finishes will not make a sea worthy craft I am concerned that ergonomics and space are starting to trump design safety. Are builders just creating dock jewelry? Some rather expensive boating bling that wouldn't get you back to port in a storm.
 

Industry Quote: "So once again we come full circle to fact that the used boat usually represents the better buy. It's been put to the test, so that if it does have problems, at least you have the opportunity to discover those problems by getting it surveyed."
So what have we learned here ? Well buying a boat new or used requires a new boater to make a lot of decisions ahead of the brand name. The brand that you will end up buying will likely be the one that ticks off as many of the boxes on your wish list as possible. Meets your budget and passes the quality and condition standard that you the buyer decides to set. If your first boat is a used boat it will cost you less and give you the boating experiences you need. Should it not meet the needs that you  actually encounter as a boat owner, it has not cost you as much as a new boat. If you buy used you should follow all the steps to protect yourself from buying a money pit or a previous owners problems.
                          
Quite often used boats that are for sale have experienced a time of neglect. This is the time between when the previous owner has decided to sell the boat and the time the new owner takes possession. Most new buyers need to call in experts to assist them in making decisions surrounding current condition and required service to get the boat they are buying or have already purchased up to standard.

So who are the "experts"? You can hire a surveyor to advise you.  Industry Quote" When it comes to small boats, probably not. The fact is that there's no money in small boats for surveyors, so there are probably very few that would even try to specialize in building a wealth of information about small boats. Besides, there are too many of them."
    If you have read any of my previous articles you will already know that I am not a fan of surveyors. Its a broken system that is far to lop sided when it comes to the way a boat is inspected. Surveyors show up with their moisture meters and hammers and go to work on a used boat taking readings and banging away to find deficiencies that may have existed from day one. They quote the ABYC bible and make recommendations regarding out of date systems or components. There is no test ride and the boat does not even have to run. They should kill the term survey and bring in a power boat safety, this smoke and mirrors excuse that there are to many boats to develop a safety inspection is the biggest load of ..B...S...... well you know. There are set guidelines and standards in the boat construction world that could be followed, and make a complete mechanical inspection part of the deal. No safety No transfer of title. There are too many first time boaters who lay out their money on the word of a previous owner, broker or hired expert that end up completely upside down for my liking. The fear here is that many power boats would fail such a test and require to much to repair to be worth while. That's ok the boat market needs to be cleaned up to protect new boat buyers and safeties would be a great place to start. As a matter of fact this type of program may help stabilize insurance rates and over all cost of power boat ownership. It would certainly bring a standard to power boat inspections and reduce the element of risk associated with buying a used boat.
                       

Industry Quote: "The bottom line is, whether you buy new or used, that when making that first boat purchase, there is some risk involved. Keep in mind that boat builders are very, very small companies, not the likes of a General Motors or Honda with billions of dollars in resources. Boat builders come and go with considerable frequency. Some aren't very good with, or even have the ability to give good warranty service. Hence, that fabulous warranty the salesman touts may have a different basis in reality.

Therefore, the element of risk isn't all that great between buying a new boat or used."\

 

There is some truth to the above statement. Yes there are a mountain of small boat manufacturers out there for whom some of this statement applies, however there are giants like Brunswick who are as big as GM and have the resources to back up their boat builders warranties. This cottage industry thinking has to go the way of the Doe Doe . Boats are one hell of a substantial investment and the buyers expectations should be just as high as the price tag.

 

Actually that sums this section of this article up in the simplest of terms possible:  When buying a power boat new or used you can expect to get what you pay for! Buy a cheap used boat be prepared to have problems the more you spend the better the boat you will get. I am sure there is the occasional deal to be had but look at the price of a new boat like the used one you are looking at. Compare the gap in price and decide if the risk is worth the reward. If you are educated on the make and model and understand the boat this decision can be an easy one to make. Learn how to self survey before you call in an expert this way you can thin out the few boats that you place on your purchase possibility list! Every boater should know their boat from bow to stern and top to bottom. 

PART 2     http://boatnutmedia.blogspot.ca/2015/12/whos-who-power-boat-manufacturers-part1.html

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Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
Connect with the Magazine web site 

 

 

                

            

DIY PROJECT # 101 / REMOTE FUEL GAUGE

                                                               

PROJECT REMOTE FUEL GAUGE

Every time power boaters frequent the gas dock they have a decision to make based on liters/ gallons, or the decision is based on a dollar value. Ultimately determining how much fuel you are planning to purchase. Either decision will make matching volume in a dual tank boats difficult. When we do ask for the fuel tank(s) to be topped up, boaters and  gas dock attendants are creating the risk of over flowing the cap or burping gas out the vent or the filler cap.

So what would be the simplest way to try and prevent this from happening?

There is a simple way to keep track of volume during fueling and to understand what is going on in your gas tank (rather than the attendant trying to read the level at the gas filler cap) as the tank gets close to full. Add a remote fuel gauge, placed in a location on the vessel were the gas dock assistant and the boat owner can see how much fuel is being pumped into your boat fuel tank. Boaters will want to mount the remote fuel gauge in a location where it will allow you to view the remote gauge clearly, and not be in the way of other accessories mounted on the vessel.

This project will require a fuel gauge, a rocker switch at the dash and a few feet of wire sized and colored to match your fuel gauge sender wires (almost always pink, black and blue) and a little imagination when it comes to placement of the remote fuel gauge. This simple addition will allow you to watch the fuel level rise as the attendant pumps the fuel. The boater can make a decision when to stop. No more getting on and off the boat during the fueling process (which is unsafe and in a lot of cases not allowed). If your boat has dual tanks you can match the volume side to side more accurately. The cost in labor to complete this small project is 1 hour of your time plus a modest budget, for electrical supplies and a fuel gauge (which is not an expensive item to buy). To complete this project you do not need to open up the fuel tank. This project simply requires piggy backing onto the sender wires only.(Remember that this is per side if you have dual gas tanks.)

This project that will provide both the boat owner and the gas dock attendant convenience, with the added bonus of protecting the environment from spills into our lakes, rivers and oceans. For you gas can boaters you can be more accurate with your fuel fill. If you want to go all out you can attach the gauge light to your courtesy light circuit and provide light at night in the general area that you locate the remote fuel gauge (this will require running the blue wire).

On a do it yourself scale this is moderate, not at all hard you will have to have basic 12volt electrical experience. Tools to complete this job are very straight forward, you will require :

Small hole saw to match the gauge install instructions

Wire cutters

Stripper/ crimp tool

Socket set or small wrench set

Having some basic hand tools will always be a necessity boat (screw drivers and pliers etc).

Label maker if you wish

Wire ties

What you end up with is a remote fuel gauge that you can turn on and off when fueling up, as a bonus gets you another curtsy light in the location you choose to mount the remote gauge. As the installer you must have enough space  behind the chosen install area to accept the gauge and the wiring that you are adding.

No more guess work at the fuel dock,( if an attendant begins to fill the wrong tank, such as the water tank he or she will notice before the incorrect tank is full)

This is a do it yourself project that will provide the boater with a great deal of convenience at the gas dock

Order the How To Video from Boat Nut all you pay is shipping! 

 Order at: boatnutmedia@gmail.com

DIY PROJECT 101

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
Connect with the Magazine web site 

Basic boat prop knowledge

                                                       

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

How does a boat propeller work?

Every prop has two numbers to describe it. The two numbers are pitch and diameter. The other part of the prop is the hub, the hub is the area where the prop shaft is attached. There are three types of basic props we use on pleasure power boats and they are aluminum, stainless steel and brass. Each of these materials has special issues that are associated with its use in prop construction. Aluminum and stainless are the standard on outboard and inboard/outboard configurations where brass is used on inboard configuration. All three of these materials can be repaired with in limits.
                                           

First we will cover Pitch 
 The first number of two marked on the prop. Pitch describes the angle of the blades. A slang term for a prop is the screw and this is for good reason, like a screw  being turned into wood each turn moves the screw a measured depth in the wood. Pitch determines the amount of forward distance the prop travels for each revolution the prop makes. Pitch is measured in inches so a 15 pitch prop moves 15 inches through the water with every complete rotation. Pitch describes two things in layman's terms, imagine the pitch number describing the ability to gain traction, the lower the number the better the take off from a stand still (hole shot) your boat will be. Pitch also could be considered like a gear arraignment the lower the number the more robust the teeth on the gear would be, in other words there is less chance of skipping teeth when you suddenly increase the rotation(speed and torque) speed.

Pitch affects the top speed the boat can produce, the fuel burn your motor uses, and the pulling or pushing power that the boat can provide when the boat is moving from a standing start (hole shot).

Speed
 This is obvious if the prop will move 15 inches with every rotation and the identical motor and boat has a 19 pitch, the 19 pitch moves 4 inches through the water further than the 15 pitch prop. However this is not an unlimited number as the motor will only provide a maximum number of revolutions of the prop, the pitch becomes limited. You could not have a 40 pitch prop as you would never grab enough water to move at all as the prop would simply act like a blender and air the water and spin with no real effect. This is called cavitation, to much cavitation simply boils the water and burns the edges of the prop. So there are a select number of pitch combinations for each motor and boat combination. The magic is to find the prop which gives you the best hole shot (standing start) and the maximum top speed based on the top rpm that it is safe to run the motor.

The next number is diameter 
This is the distance from tip to tip of the prop. The diameter is also a restricted number, as it is restricted by two other items. The diameter of the prop is restricted by the size of the prop shaft. If you try to turn a large diameter prop on a small prop shaft that prop shaft will snap. The torque that the prop places on the shaft would stress the shaft causing the shaft to twist or snap it some where close to the back of the prop. The other item that affects the size of the prop is the location of the anti cavitation plate, this is the flat plate directly above the prop on your gear case. This plate is designed to be even with the water height that is created from the bottom of the boat when you are on plane. If this plate is too high or too low you will not achieve maximum performance of the motor or the boat. This plate also stops the water from simply flying out above the prop creating the maximum forward thrust that the prop develops. You do not want to have a prop which is so close to the plate or the hull that the water cavitates because it cannot pass through the gap between the prop and the anti cavitation plate. In the case of prop being close to the hull you could if you hit something cut a gash through the hull of the boat. These are the reasons why you are generally restricted to one or possibly two diameters you can use.
                                                               

The last part of the prop we described is the hub, this is the center of the prop were the blades start and the shaft penetrates the prop. There are different types of hubs on power boats, the hub is designed and dictated by the prop shaft and or gear case. in the case of an outboard or conventional inboard /out board the hub of the prop has exhaust gases that pass through this area. This is why when the water is clear you can see a trail of bubbles leaving the center of the prop. The hub of this type of prop is the same size as the gear case with open passages through the hub. There are two styles of these props, the break away hub and the fixed hub. You will only be able to determine the type you have by removing the prop off the shaft. When you remove the prop on the inside of the hub you may find a hard plastic block with a hole and splines for the shaft to pass through it. this block is designed to break away if you impact the prop to reduce the prop damage and the possibility of damaging the gears inside the gear case. The fixed hub does not have this plastic block and therefore if you impact the prop you will surely damage or break off the blades and possibly damage the gear case. A racing gear case on an outboard or inboard /outboard has a solid hub similar to an inboard configuration as there is no exhaust port requirement..

Prop materials
are aluminum, stainless steel and brass. On an inboard or inboard outboard configuration the props are made out of aluminum or stainless steel, why is this? The aluminum prop is a soft material which will easily change shape or break away under impact, this is critical to protect the inner workings of the gear case. The disadvantage to an aluminum prop is that the blades flex under load so the pitch is not a constant as you power up or are pushing the boat through heavy sea conditions. The pitch on an aluminum prop will change over time they are not reliable to always remain the same as they were made, affecting performance and fuel burn. Stainless is the next material, it is stronger and rigid so this material gives you reliable pitch through its life and while you power up. The blades do not move around. This great for performance however if you impact the prop you can damage the gear case workings. The stainless prop is more durable and less apt to be as immediately affected by corrosion. The last material is brass which is what the inboard configuration has, brass is less flexible than aluminum and not as durable as stainless. The perfect material for props that you cannot see. If you impact the blades they will flex and break away to help protect the rest of the running gear. One of the disadvantages to brass that the pitch can change with high hours of use, so it is a maintenance item to have your props tuned on a regular schedule. Doing this will keep the performance you should expect and the fuel burn correct. A prop tune is not expensive and will pay you back in fuel burn.
                                                         

Props come in several ways, there are the number of blades, the style of these blades, and the direction of rotation. There are also right hand and left hand rotation. On small outboard motors you will have two blades on more power full outboards and inboard/out boards you will see three and four blade props, the same as inboard configurations.You also see dual prop configurations on more current boats. The amount of blades can assist in achieving the best performance for a hull design, and weight. A four bladed prop can be more efficient in providing pull out of the hole and something called transom lift providing quicker hull planing capabilities. When we talk about left and right hand props this is the direction of the rotation of the drive shafts. When you have a twin configuration you are looking for the starboard drive or shaft to be turning right hand and the port providing you with left hand rotation there is a reason for this set up. In a single motor single prop the boat has a natural tendency to pull to the right going forward and to the left in reverse, by having a counter or left hand rotation on the left side it counters this natural reaction. Which creates a more manageable boat to operate. Twin with right and left hand rotation also provides transom lift, because the props turn in against each other there is a channel of water which is pushed straight down lifting the hull out of the water. This is taken advantage of the most with performance boats where the distance between the props is very small. If you have a twin that has two right hand drives there is a high chance that the drive on the left has been changed, the boat will never perform to it maximum at all. All left hand props are marked with an L, right hand props are not marked.
                                             

Choosing a Prop for your boat requires some calculations which Mercury or Volvo can provide you with based on your specific configuration. If you still feel that you can get a little more out of a prop then a prop repair person can put an extra half pitch in the prop, and yes this does work, you can get a real gain in a half pitch custom set up. Knowing if you have the right prop is an entirely separate topic to cover. When you read the numbers on your prop a 17x19 is a 17 pitch 19 inch diameter, a 17x19L is a 17 pitch 19 inch diameter left hand or counter rotation prop. These numbers are either on the side of the hub or on the end of the hub. If you are not sure a prop repair person can tell you what you have.

There is a mass amount of science to prop construction, materials, and selections. This article was simply to cover basic information, to create a basic understanding. A duo prop drive has one prop turning right and one turning left, so a single duo prop will not have the natural pull to the left or right. Duo prop provides a more stabile steering and control platform. IPS and the new forward drive are all duo prop configurations. If you need more information on props Mercury is running information this year on this topic.

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Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided.

Basic Bravo Three and Volvo Duo Prop Service

                                                           

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Basic Bravo Drive Service / Volvo Duo Prop Service

                             

Be sure to also read the Alpha Basic service blog as there are details that will cross over and apply.
Bravo  drives are easily identified  by their size, Bravo drives are much larger in size and are most identified with duo prop configuration. There are three common generations of Bravo drives. The first is the single prop bravo drive most common on boats from the 1980's, single prop drives are similar in service to the alpha drive only larger in size. It is the two Duo prop generations that we want to focus on in this service information. The reason why I have included the Volvo Duo Prop drive with the Bravo Three duo Prop are they are very similar to complete a basic service on.

There are some specialty tools you will need to purchase from your mercury or Volvo dealer to complete service. this is because the gear oil drain is located behind the props.

1-  Prop Nut socket kit from Mercury Marine (Mercury will not fit Volvo)
2-  Prop Nut Socket kit from Volvo Marine (Volvo will not fit Mercury)
3-  Large straight screw driver for vent screw (Mercury)
4-  Large set of metric Alan wrench's for drain screw (Volvo Marine)
5-  5 one liter bottles of High Performance gear lube (Mercury Marine)
6-  Volvo synthetic Gear lube from Volvo, you must use the synthetic gear lube in your Volvo drive        do not use Mercury High Performance
7- Mercury Zinc Chromate primer (Mercury Marine)
8- Mercury Phantom Black Spray paint (Mercury Marine)
9- Volvo zinc Chromate primer (Volvo Marine)
10- Volvo silver color match drive paint( Volvo Marine)
11- Anode replacement kit for either Mercury Bravo Three Drive or Volvo Duo prop drive( you may require the drive serial number to be sure you get the correct parts. For Bravo Three you will locate the drive serial number on the top motor cover. On a Volvo you will locate the serial number for the drive on the motor cover.
12- Mercury 2-4-c grease this can be used on either drive.
13- Grease gun with underwater grease by either Mercury or Volvo.

In either drive service case you will need a oil recovery container (oil drain pan). You will also need a one foot cut length of 2x4 to use as a prop wedge. The first step is to remove the props. Trim the drive down to a comfortable position to access the prop nuts and remove the props. Place the 2x4 wedge in between the edge of the large prop and the anti cavitation plate above the prop so the props cannot turn when you apply pressure with the correct prop nut socket on the small prop. These nuts may be very, very tight, they loosen by turning to the left. Once the small nut is removed you may find the prop tight to pull off, place a wooden block against the back of the prop on of the back of the blades and give the block a hit with a mallet, do not smash the block simply work your way around the blades until the prop pops off. Do not let the prop fall on the ground they are finally tuned stainless and can be bent with a fall onto concrete or hard surface. This will expose nut number two the large prop nut . Place the 2x4 in the same location between the end of the blade and the anti cavitation plate and loosen the same way. Once nut is removed take off the prop.

You will now be able to see the drain screw in the very bottom of the bullet or gear case facing you. You will now need to trim the drive all the way down with the oil change tray under the drive, with the skeg set over the middle of the pan. You will then remove the drain screw which will have a small ring gasket on it. Then you will remove the vent screw which will be on the side of the gear case up high on the right hand side of the case. If you have a Volvo Duo Prop drive you can also remove the dip stick which is in the top middle of the gear case it looks like a large bolt with a slot for a screw drive in it. Now you will need to leave the drive for a couple of hours to completely drain down, this will also drain the reservoir bottle on the engine at the same time. Do not rush this.

While this is going on its time to inspect the condition of the drive and the anodes. If the anodes show any bad break down or are missing install new ones, the kit will provide you with details of were to look for all the anodes that can be serviced. If you have areas were the paint is damaged then you will need to re spray and paint in these areas . Do not unless absolutely necessary sand and paint the whole drive. If you do this you are starting a process that will never end you will be painting the drive every year., the products that the drive was coated with from the factory are the best and are almost impossible to reproduce. Once you sand the drive you are immediately promoting corrosion. Do not paint any anodes they will not work if they are coated with paint. If you paint the anodes the props will become your anodes!

When you are sure that all the gear lube is drained it is time to refill. Hook the gear oil pump up to the drain screw hole and begin to slowly pump gear oil into the drive with the large duo prop drives stop every five minutes and let the air get on top of the lube, a two min break is good enough and then continue to pump slowly until the gear lube is showing at the vent. Now leave every thing hooked up and take a ten minute break, come back and pump a little more until the slow flow out of the vent screw hole is steady with no air sputtering. Now you are full. Grab the drain screw and install a new seal ring and do the same to the vent screw. Install the vent screw (and in the case of a Volvo put the dip sick back in finger tight). Now remove the gear lube pump and replace the drain screw.
and the vent screw. In the case of the Volvo Duo Prop you can confirm the gear oil level with the dip sick and then replace and tighten the dip stick.

With the drive full of gear oil you must now go into the boat and fill up the reservoir on the engine . On the first trip you must recheck the level in this reservoir and if it drops some top it up. This is important and like the alpha reservoir there is a sensor and alarm on this bottle, if the gear oil level goes down to a low level it will send you a signal by providing a constant beeping at the dash when the ignition is on. I noted in the alpha service blog that the reservoir must be connected through the wire harness, if the sensor is not plugged in or the wires are modified get them fixed. Without this warning you will not know that the drive is consuming gear oil and the worst case the drive will blow up. If through the year you need to keep filling the reservoir then contact your authorized service provider and have them do a pressure test on the drive, and have the drive fixed if gear oil can escape then water can get in. This is a recipe for disaster.

                                                   

On a Bravo Three Drive or the Volvo Duo Prop it is important that the trim up and down is smooth and even , If the drive trim is slow to react or the drive jolts on the way up or down you will need to grease the trim ram pins there are two one at thee front of the rams and one at the back, the way to do this is to remove the plastic end fitting on the ram pin, under this you will find either a nut or a clip remove one side and slide the pin out of one ram side only place some grease in the hole and slide the ram back in and reverse the procedure for the other side. try to do one side at a time if you remove the whole pin then you need to man handle the drive back into place to slide the pin through all the holes. In the case of a Mercury Bravo Three there is a yellow plastic spacer in the drive itself that must be re installed the correct way or your drive will not trim all the way down. In most cases this job can be a little intimidating and you may want to let your service provider handle this.

There is no sea water pump in a Bravo Three or Volvo duo prop. So gear oil change, placing some grease on the prop shafts, a little paint, anodes and your basic service is done. If you see any zirk fittings for a grease gun to hook on give them a couple of pumps of grease and away you go.

Things you must be aware of with Bravo Drives:

1- Do not operate the shift unless the motor is running, all you are doing is stretching the shift cable
    this will cause shift problems.
2- If you have Bravo Three drives and are a fishing nut then you are likely stressing the universal           joints and should have the drive pulled every year to keep an eye on the universal joints.
3- Gear oil changes are key to the drives ability to sift because of the cone clutch.
4- If you run fast a lot with the Bravo Drive the bearing at the very top of the drive gets hot and will       burn up, there is a kit you can buy that pick up water and dumps it on the top of the drive to cool         the housing and bearing, if you are running long distance it is a good idea to slow down and let the     top of the case wet down and cool occasionally.

                                                   

Example of a Bravo Shower

5- Keep your props in good shape if you run with banged up props it is hard on the prop seals.
6- Set out a service schedule were you have the drive pulled at regular hourly operation times or             annually for drive shaft, bearing and bellows inspection and service.
7- If you have damage to the skeg or cavitation plate get this fixed, the aerate water around the props       will be disturbed and you will loose performance (this is true for any drive)
8- If when you drain the gear lube the gear lube looks like a milk shake or has any water in it call            your service provider and have them pressure check the drive.
9- Always replace the ring seals at the drain and vent screws after any service.

                                         

Mercury Duo Prop Tool

Things to be aware of with Volvo Duo Props:

1- You actually loose less horse power through a Volvo drive.
2- You have a dip stick in the top of the drive to check fluid level after you change the gear oil.
3- Under the front cap of the drive There is the shift shaft this are should be lubed up to prevent corrosion, as there is a seal here that can allow water into the drive and if it is not lubed can create stiff shifts.
4- You must use Volvo synthetic fluids appropriate for your application.
5- If you are buying parts for your Volvo Duo Prop be sure of the serial number, and only by genuine    Volvo parts as after market parts quite often will fit but are not exactly right and you will be                 repairing again in a season,
6- Do not try to remove the props without the right tool if you knock off any of the raised bumps on       the nut you will end up having to cut the nut off.
7- Arrange with your service provider regular dive pull service to inspect the drive shaft, bearing and     the bellows this should be based on hours of operation or annually.

                                       

Volvo Duo Prop Tool

When we discuss service based on hours the standard is usually every 100 hours of operation or every year. A key fact is that most Inboard /Outboard boats that sink ,the cause is the bellows. The bellows are the rubber boots which surround the drive shaft and the shift shaft, some drives have exhaust bellows also. With age these bellows begin to crack and water starts to trickle in, a dead give away for bellows that are going bad is when the drive is pulled and there is water in the bellows and or the drive shaft is all rusty. Because of the proximity of the bellows to the water (under water) this is a repair you should have an insured and certified service provider complete the installation can be tricky and requires experience . Done wrong and your boat is on the bottom. This is why it is recommended not to store the boat with the drive trimmed up for long periods of time, if you have muskrats in your area they love to chew on the exposed bellows. So keep your drive in the all the way down position as much as you can.

                                           

Example of Bellows Kit

Never attempt a repair that you feel is over your head if you require detailed service information Email: boatnutmedia@gmail.com  and we will help you with any questions you may have.

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided.