Showing posts with label Boat Nut Media. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Boat Nut Media. Show all posts

Monday, 1 August 2016

HEADS UP HOW DOES MY MARINE HEAD WORK?


 

HEADS UP   HOW DOES MY MARINE HEAD WORK?


When it comes to power boat system questions they come in waves, right now it is marine head questions. How does my marine head work? There are four types of marine heads that production power boats generally install (not one of them will work like your home toilet). At home gravity, a few gallons of water and a siphon effect do the job. With the waste being carried away in large 3 inch pipes. On a power boat things are totally different, there is no gravity or siphon effect and certainly not a 3 inch drain pipe.

Power boats are set up with a Porta Potty, Manual Pump Head, Electric Head or Vacu Flush Head. Each one of these heads represents a completely different way of flushing away waste and have there own unique good and bad characteristics. Only two of these heads are truly interchangeable with out a large amount of additional modification to the vessel. As a matter of fact a Porta Potty does not even qualify as a marine head in some jurisdictions when it pertains to power boat laws.

If your boat has a PORTA POTTY:


A Porta Potty install will mean that your boat is not equipped with either a fresh water system or a waste holding tank (BLACK WATER). This is the most basic head installation that you can have on a power boat. The Porta Potty provides a place to go, however the filling of water for flushing and handling of the waste tank is manual. The Porta Potty latches to the floor with two brackets, one on each side at the bottom of the unit so you can remove and dump the waste. The issue with this is the dumping of this waste, you have to locate a place to do this that is safe and convenient. Some boat owners and manufacturers have manufactured a system where the Porta Potty has been modified.  There has been a waste hose attached to the bottom waste holding tank complete with a waste discharge fitting installed on the deck. All of these modifications allow you to pump out the Porta Potty tank at the waste pump station at your local marina.
NOTE: FOR DETAILS ON THIS MODIFICATION CONTACT boatnutmedia@gmail.com REFERANCE/ PORTA POTTY PUMP OUT MODIFICATION 

A Porta Potty works with a trap door system where by the waste simply falls into a holding tank on the bottom half of the unit. There is a small water tank on the top half of the toilet so you can pump water into the bowl with the waste, providing a cleaner flush. Porta Potty is an emergency head as far as I am concerned, the holding tank is very small and the system is notorious for odors if you try to use this as a fully operational head.

If you want to upgrade from the Porta Potty set up, you may or may not be able to do this. Any other marine head installation will require a waste holding tank complete with a two inch discharge (flush) hose from the marine head, a water pick up line from the bottom of the hull complete with through hull and a waste tank vent installed in the side of the hull. If your power boat is to small or designed without an area for a small holding tank you maybe out of luck. The other consideration is you must be able to run all the hoses and the through hull valve required to make the head system operational. If you are looking at a boat with only a Porta Potty on board and plan to use the boat in a fashion that would require a more conventional marine head then be sure to have the boat looked at for the possibility of installation before you buy.

A Porta Potty with or without a way to pump out at the dock quite often does not qualify as a marine head in the case of drinking on your boat be sure you know the laws in your region do not assume that as long as you have a porta potty you are legal.


Image result for marine porta potty


If your boat has a Manual Pump Head:


This will mean that your vessel has a waste holding tank (Black Water) and a through hull in the bottom of the boat for the head to pick up raw (fresh) water to flush the waste away. This style of head has a manual pump to remove the waste and to draw fresh water from the lake, river or ocean to flush. This pump maybe a handle that you move up and down or a upright manual pump that has a handle that you pull up and push down.
 
This is the most basic and popular complete marine head system. The manual pump head works well and is relatively bullet proof. Most of the designs and makes of heads are completely serviceable, and easy to maintain.  Manual flush heads are actually damaged or broken more often than not by the technician or boat owner by over tightening the hardware that holds the pump pieces together. These head pumps are an all plastic body with a ceramic bowl. They are designed to be disassembled for repair,  mistakes made when reassembling the plastic pump bodies will lead to cracking at the screws.
Thus creating leaks.
 
A Manual Flush Head works on a push/ pull system were every pump of the handle is either pulling the waste toward the discharge hose or pushing the waste toward the discharge hose. At the same time you are pulling lake water to the head through the bottom of the boat. Most manual pump heads have a switch located beside the pump handle allowing you the option of a dry flush meaning no lake water is added to the bowl, or a wet flush meaning you are flushing with lake water entering the bowl. This option allows you to flush fluid waste with out the addition of extra water reducing the volume of liquid filling the waste holding tank. This is a genuine concern if you have a small waste holding tank on board. The reason for the popularity of the manual flush head is they will always work, no power is required to operate. More advanced marine head systems require 12 volt power to flush the waste away. No power no flush!

Manual Flush Heads are the easiest marine heads to correct a plugged issue. You must remember that any marine head has a two inch discharge hose and relies on one method or another to push or pull waste from the head to the holding tank. For this reason you should not flush anything but human waste down any marine head. It is important to place a waste basket beside the bowl for paper products or any other waste that could normally be flushed away at home. If you post a sign or purchase a decal that shows what the head will not accept for discharge and educate your guests you will save yourself many head aches and service calls. As a matter of fact technicians will quite often charge a premium to work on a head system, due to the environmental factors that they face in opening up a waste system. Do not use drain cleaners or an auger to clean a plug, use a shop vacuum, complete with running water to flush the system. This way you will not damage components.


Image result for marine manual flush heads
 

If your boat has a Electric Head:


An Electric Head is a swap out for a manual pump head!  It will require the installation of a flush switch and a 12 volt circuit to be run to the head. However the head uses the same water pick up and the same discharge hoses. Remember there is no hole under the head for a waste pipe all waste leaves the head through the two inch discharge hose. All of the electrical and mechanical workings off the electric head are part of the toilet itself, at the back of the bowl near the bottom there is a 12volt electric motor that drives a double pump case. The case is divided into two parts the fresh water pump impellor which pumps the water from the lake to the bowl and a macerator with a stainless steel chopper blade to remove the waste. This type of head is extremely efficient at its job, it chops and pumps the waste away quickly.
 
When it is in action it looks a lot more like the operation of your home toilet than any other head. Of course you must remember that there is a large electric motor and flushing will be far from silent, so night flushes for those sleeping by the head wall can be annoying.

The electric head is a serviceable system, meaning the every once in awhile you will have to service the pump and have a new water pump impellor installed to keep the flushing water at the correct volume. The amount of time between service will depend on the amount the head is used. The worst thing you can do to an electric head is not use it the electric motor will begin to sieze and the water pump impellor can swell or lock up with some of the blades bent over. If the electric motor ever starts to trip the breaker due to lack of use or age you can purchase a new one and should! If you attempt to get a stuck motor going (which you can) it will not last long at all, you will experience problems with the breaker tripping when you flush. You must remember NO POWER NO FLUSH!

If you watch what you flush down the head, maintain and use the electric head regularly it can give you years of uninterrupted service. They really are reliable. If you use you boat for charters or just have a lot of guests this is the head to have. The electric head is very efficient at moving waste down the discharge hose, which may not seem like a big deal, however it is! Waste left in the discharge line for extended periods of time can do two things. One- It can dry out between uses and create narrowing of the hose diameter inside leading to plugs. Two- This is the more important, odor, the waste in the rubber line will eventually leach its odor through the hose material. Once this happens every time you close up the boat and leave for days a time when you return you will have that waste smell lingering in the air. The new white triple wrap waste is line is far and away better than the old black waste line for odor protection. The use of cheap discharge hose on any marine head is a bad mistake.
Image result for electric marine flush heads

 

 

If your boat has a Vacu Flush Head:


Honestly you have a bucket load of parts between the head and the tank to go wrong. Vacu Flush works with the same size discharge hose as any other marine head. Do not be deceived by that big trap door that opens in the bottom of the bowl. I have had boaters who think that the trap door opens and there is a huge pipe to swallow the waste, not so! The black area you looking at is the bottom of the bowl. When the Vacu Flush system is working right it is awesome, but there are a lot of working parts to make this head function.

First at the bowl, there is a seal on the trap door that must make contact with the bowl opening if this seal is damaged or dries out the system is compromised and the pump that creates the vacuum will keep running (TIP: Keep the trap door covered in a small amount of water this will keep the seal from drying out) Next there is the Vacu Flush pump which is what you will hear running when the head is flushed this pump housing is made up of several key parts. From time to time these parts will need to be replaced. There are at least four duck bill valves split- two on the intake side of the pump and two on the discharge side of the pump, these rubber valves age or get damaged and no longer allow the vacuum to build in the system. Then there is the pump itself the piston that the pump operates is plastic and can crack with time, load and items that are to hard to crush travelling thru the body. If the bellows that seals the piston tight (allowing vacuum to build up) crack the pump will continue to work, if you all of a sudden notice a strong odor of waste one of the first places to check is the pump bellows. As the pump continues to run with the broken bellows there will be raw waste pumped into the area that the pump is located in the bilge. Depending on the year of the Vacu Flush system there maybe a separate vacuum tank and pump location on the vessel. Older tanks are white tanks that resemble a torpedo. The newer systems have the pump and vacuum tank as one unit. On the tank you have a vacuum switch which determines the amount of vacuum created to complete a flush, the amount of vacuum is adjustable. This same switch  dictates when the pump is to start up or shut down when the desired vacuum in the system is reached. It is all these working parts that make this system a failure trap if misused or mis installed.
 
If you are buying a power boat with a Vacu Flush upgrade be sure to tell your surveyor that the system was installed post manufacturer. Quite often when the Vacu Flush is installed after market the runs to the pump are up hill or have to many turns for the Vacu Flush to be reliable. If the installer uses cheap discharge line the system may continually plug.

More so than any other marine head you must be sure that no one is flushing feminine products or hard objects through the Vacu Flush system, this will get very costly to repair. These products along with paper towel will damage the duck bill valves and the pump "no doubt". If your bowl continues to loose water then the seal at the flush door must be replaced. The foot pump flush switch is another area that must be watched. The Vacu Flush head works with the fresh water system of the vessel only. This valve that the foot switch is attached to is plastic, abusive use of the flush pedal will damage it. When this happens the floor of the head can continue to flood as long as the fresh water pump on the boat is left on or you have the vessel connected to active dockside water.

Of all the head systems this one is the one that will plug up the easiest due to the amount of flow restrictions on the way to the holding tank. This head will be as reliable as you treat it!

Image result for vacu flush flush heads
 
 
 
Image result for vacu flush flush heads
 
 


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Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
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Thursday, 3 March 2016

NMMA to sell or shut down California shows, closes NMMA West offices



 

NMMA to sell or shut down California shows, closes NMMA West offices

 
Image result for LA BOAT SHOW
 Image result for sandiego boat SHOW
 


The US trade association has sold the Los Angeles Boat Show and San Diego International Boat Show to Duncan McIntosh Company
 

NMMA makes strategic changes to its boat show roster           

NMMA, as part of strategic changes to its boat show roster, has reached an agreement to transfer ownership of the Los Angeles Boat Show and San Diego International Boat Show to Duncan McIntosh Company, Inc., effective immediately.

The 2016 Los Angeles Boat Show completed a successful four-day run on February 28 with an eleven percent increase in attendance, helping kick off the transfer on a positive note. As for the 2016 San Diego International Boat Show, set to run June 16-19 at the Sheraton Hotel & Marina on Harbor Island, it is business as usual and all existing agreements for 2016 will be honored by Duncan McIntosh Company. For exhibitors who have already contracted for space, NMMA has assigned space contracts and deposits to Duncan McIntosh Company. All exhibitor questions related to the Los Angeles and San Diego shows should be directed to Janette Hood at the Duncan McIntosh Company.

Additionally, following the cancellation of the San Francisco Boat Show in January due to weather and given challenges in finding a suitable long-term home for the show in Northern California, NMMA will not be producing a San Francisco show in 2017. NMMA President Thom Dammrich notes, “It was not an easy decision to make but after listening to our exhibitors and exploring our options for alternative host sites, it became clear we would not be able to produce the kind of event our attendees and exhibitors have come to expect from NMMA. We thank our exhibitors for their support as we looked to use this show as a way to reinvigorate the Northern California market and hope our exhibitors understand our reasons behind this difficult decision.”

With these changes come changes at NMMA. Without these shows on its roster, the NMMA West offices will be closing later this Spring. In a letter to exhibitors, Dammrich noted, “We are sad to say goodbye to Dave Geoffroy and his talented team of professionals and thank them for their hard work and dedication in working with us to grow recreational boating in California. Dave has been a fixture in the Southern California boating industry for forty-five years and has served the industry as an association leader for eighteen years. We hope you will join us in wishing them well in their future endeavors.”

While the NMMA West offices are closing and shows are transitioning, NMMA will continue serving the needs of the marine industry on the West Coast. David Dickerson and NMMA’s state government relations team will remain active in all California legislative and regulatory efforts. What's more, John McKnight's work with CARB and Nicole Vasilaros' work in ensuring California is part of our federal government relations efforts will continue, uninterrupted. Additionally, the NMMA teams supporting statistics, certification, marketing and PR in California are moving full speed ahead. California remains a key region that's integral to the success of the entire U.S. boating industry and a priority for NMMA.
 
 
 



To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.



Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
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Lowrance teams up with Mercury / “As the fully integrated ‘connected boats’ becomes more of a reality,



Lowrance teams up with Mercury

 
More information on integrated power boat systems to come
 
Lowrance HDS Gen3 and HDS Gen2 Touch displays to offer fully integrated Mercury engine data
Lowrance, Navico’s fishing electronics brand, has announced that its full line of Lowrance HDS Gen3 and HDS Gen2 Touch multifunction displays are to receive a software upgrade that adds powerful functionality with the recently introduced Mercury VesselView Link module.
The upgrade will provide boaters with fully integrated Mercury engine data combined with their chartplotter, sounder or radar display.
“As the fully integrated ‘connected boats’ becomes more of a reality, developing strong ties with engine and boat manufacturers is vital for continued success,” says Leif Ottosson, Navico CEO.
“Working together with Mercury, we are able to offer anglers a simplified approach to data management,” he adds. “Now information from radar, sonar, gauges, engine controls, and more, can all be viewed on one screen, minimising distractions for captains and simplifying the boating experience.”
In addition, Mercury has also announced a new line of 5in and 7in VesselView gauges – the VesselView 502 and VesselView 702 – that will complement the VesselView Link integration with Lowrance HDS Gen3 and HDS Gen2 Touch displays and provide redundancy for added safety and enjoyment on the water.
VesselView Link, which features single- and multiple-engine models with support for up to four SmartCraft engines, will be available in June 2016 from authorised Mercury dealers throughout the US and Canada






To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.



Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
Connect with the Magazine web site

 

Wednesday, 2 March 2016

PADDLE SAFE and ROW SAFE Tips for paddlers and rowers sharing the waterway!





Paddle safe


Paddling is for fitness, challenge, relaxation - or simply to get to beautiful places.
 
 
  Paddling is great to help you get fit. Some like it as a challenge. Others simply like it to relax and get to beautiful places. Whatever you use it for, it’s good to know about paddle safety so things don't go wrong.

 It was all about doing the right thing to be safe and responsible when you’re using paddle craft. Part of this included how to make sure you’re visible and also wearing a lifejacket.

Wear a lifejacket

One of your most important pieces of equipment is your life-jacket. It needs to be correctly fitted so it doesn’t float up over your head should you capsize. A correctly fitted lifejacket supports your body upright and allows you to recover or wait for rescue. Wear your lifejacket. Don’t leave it in the boat  because accidents can and do happen. If you capsize, your lifejacket is no use to you if it is in the boat. Without a lifejacket you can waste a lot of energy to stay afloat, and this can quickly become life-threatening. Compare a paddler wearing a lifejacket in a similar situation. A lifejacket helps prevent you panicking so you can regain your composure and recover more easily.

 

Be safe be seen  

  Which are easier to see? The clothing and equipment you choose makes a big difference to how visible you are to others. Put yourself in the captains seat of a powerboat.
. And in glary conditions or when the sun is low on the water be aware how hard it is for a boat skipper to see you. At night or dusk, make sure you have lights. You must display a white light or light sufficiently to show others where you are and to avoid a collision. You want to be able to seen from every direction.
 

 Know the rules

 
Paddlers have to share the waterways with much bigger and more powerful craft. Do you know how to navigate waterways safely? It’s up to everyone to be safe and avoid a collision. What side do you pass another boat on?  On the water you should keep to the right of the waterway - starboard – wherever possible. Stick to the shorelines where you can to avoid other craft. What if you need to cross? Pick the narrowest point to cross, and choose a starting point where you can see clearly in both directions. As you cross, stick together as a group, and keep a lookout. Navigation markers are used to show craft where they can safely navigate harbors and protected waters. Channels are marked by green markers and red markers. Where possible try to paddle outside of these channels - to keep out of the way of other boats. If you have to paddle in the channel, stay to the right hand side and keep close to the edge. Always avoid the middle of the channel. At other times it might be safest to stay closer to the shore even if it means being on the left hand side of the channel. Do you know where the shipping lanes are? Have you any idea how fast large vessels can travel? You could never out-paddle a ship. So avoid commercial traffic, know where the shipping lanes are and paddle clear of them. If you need to cross a shipping lane, you can’t assume you will be seen. Wait till it is safe to cross and always cross well behind larger craft. Keep well clear of the boat-wash. Kayaks and canoes should give way to any craft under sail. Always aim to cross behind other craft.
 

The right equipment

 
When you choose your craft and equipment make sure it suits your abilities and experience. This will depend on your fitness, your level of skills, where you plan to go and who with. In addition to your lifejacket, take plenty of water and food, shoes and spare clothing to suit the conditions. Take a helmet if going into moving water such as surf or rapids. If going into open water, a paddle leash or leg leash can save you losing your paddle or kayak. Take a mobile phone with you in a waterproof case. A whistle to attract attention can also be handy. And don’t forget your sun-protection. Keep your equipment well maintained and check it is all in good working order before you go. If your kayak has an open cockpit do you have enough buoyancy? Test your craft in shallow waters to find out what happens when it’s full of water. Consider adding extra buoyancy and something to pump out with. If going offshore consider a waterproof, hand held VHF radio, for communications and weather updates. Offshore you might also carry an EPIRB or Personal Locator Beacon which gives your exact location in case of an emergency rescue. Take care when lifting and carrying to avoid injury. When transporting kayaks on your car, make sure they are centered and securely strapped. Under most road rules if they over-hang by over a meter, you will need to tie a red flag or rag to the end. Being prepared and having the right equipment means you can enjoy your paddling with confidence
 

Plan your trip

 
Before you set out, check the weather, especially the wind direction, tides, swell, any flood warnings and plan your trip around the conditions. Always tell someone where you’re going and when you expect to return. Know what wind strength you can handle depending on where you plan to go. And remember that conditions can change rapidly. Even flat water can quickly become wind-affected, especially large open bodies of water. At sea, swell can add to the wind waves. Take tide and current into account when planning a trip. Tides change around every 6 hours or so. Changes in tides affect sea and river conditions. Low tides can expose hidden hazards such as rocks and oysters. Take particular care with bars. It’s always safest to cross a bar at slack tide – which occurs at the turn of the tide. An outgoing tide can be extremely difficult to paddle against, and you could get caught out unable to get back. The waves at a bar at low tide get steeper and more challenging. If you are paddling on a fresh-water river, check the current rain forecasts and river conditions. Moving waters in rivers are dangerous at any time, as they wash down debris, and disguise hazards such as fences or submerged objects. Trees, logs and bridges can be very hazardous, especially in high water. Don’t paddle or try to wade through flood waters – people have drowned this way

 

Know your limits

 
It’s all about paddling within your limits – and that includes your craft, your experience, the conditions on the day and your level of skills. Taking lessons improves your skills and confidence. Be realistic about your fitness and capabilities. Know your own strengths and weaknesses – and those of the others in the group. Don’t travel too far and save strength for the return journey – conditions might be harder on the way home. Learn about what you can do to get yourself out of trouble if you capsize. There are many ways you can rescue yourself, and practice makes perfect! Take some lessons in how to rescue others. It is safer to paddle in a group, and so long as you stay close by you can assist each other. If you stick within your own limits, you will enjoy your paddling more. Here’s some of the key points for safe and enjoyable paddling: wear a lifejacket; Be seen, be safe; Know the boating rules; Pass to the right; Stick to the shore lines; Keep a lookout and cross safely; Keep your equipment maintained; Plan your trip around the conditions of the day; Learn skills to make yourself safe. Keep safe – and have fun paddling

Row safe

Rowing plays a part in the sporting culture of our nation.
 
 
   Beyond its rich history, it’s a sport that undoubtedly demands a high level of fitness and coordination. But just like all other vessels on the waterways, if you’re part of the crew on a rowing vessel, you must obey some fundamental rules for safe navigation.
 
When you’re rowing, the essential rules are to be seen, keep a proper lookout and always keep to the right.
 
You can easily avoid most of the usual rowing issues that happen on the water by simply following some basic courtesy and having an understanding of the rules.
  • rowing safety
  • rules of the waterways
  • waterway courtesy
  • keeping to the right
  • what to do when a ferry is approaching or departing a wharf
  • appropriate lighting and visibility of rowing vessels

 Like all other vessels on the water, the crew of a rowing craft must observe some fundamental rules for safe navigation.  Anyone involved in rowing must observe them. Every vessel must have a proper look-out. Using sight and sound each person on a boat needs to be fully aware of their boating environment and any risk of collision. The most important points are: - Keep to the right, Stay right over. And keep a good look-out.
 
 While it’s up to everyone to know what’s going on, the cox and the rowing coach need to be particularly alert. This means taking the time to check out not only the course but also the surrounding waterway. Onboard, the most important role of the cox is to ensure the safety of the crew at all times. Whether the boat is bow or stern-coxed, the cox must maintain a proper look out. And it’s the cox's job to ensure that the crew is on the right side of the river at all times and not to cut the corners. The coach is also responsible for crew safety and is the additional eyes and ears for both coxed and coxless crews. Like the cox, a coach needs to keep their crews on the right part of the river. They also need to ensure crews are not rowing side by side right across the river
 
Take time to know the local waterway. Study a boating map and talk to people on the waterfront. And familiarize yourself with any pinch points in your local area. With any wharf that has regular ferry traffic, always keep well clear and take extra care near any commercial wharves where larger vessels such as ferries or charter boats may operate. And do not cross in front of vessel pulling off or coming along side wharves. Above all, do not attempt to cross in front of a moving ferry. Keep well clear of ferries. The wash from these craft has the potential to capsize and or swamp rowing craft.
 
Finally, ensure your boat carries at least one white light visible from any direction. Or two separate lights: one on the bow and one on the stern. The newer LED lights have incredible visibility and stand out far more than traditional lights



    To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.



    Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
    Connect with the Magazine web site

TRAILER BOATING / A must read for Trailer Boaters




Trailer Boating


Small runabouts are the most popular type of vessel on our waterways.
 
    Small runabouts are the most popular type of vessel on our waterways. Open runabouts of less than 4.8m are often referred to as “aluminum boats” and due to their size they are more susceptible to capsize and swamping than larger vessels.
Every captain of a small vessel needs to take extra care when planning and preparing for a day out, and of course, lifejackets are a key safety item.

Lifejackets

Lifejackets have come a long way in form and function over the years. From the uncomfortable and bulky designs of the past, today’s lifejackets come in a range of styles and are much more convenient and comfortable to wear.
There’s a range of information available about lifejacket requirements when boating.

Alcohol

Boating is a great way to spend time with family and friends, but go easy on the drink. A lot of people already feel a bit wobbly if they’re not used to being on a boat - mix in a few drinks, and the effects of sun, wind and waves and alcohol can be a lethal combination.
If you’re the captain, you’re responsible for the safety of everyone on board. So take it easy on the water and remember in most cases ( check with local law enforcement) you can only have a drink at anchor or tied to the dock if you have a fixed galley and head on board your vessel.

Navigate safely

Speed and wash

If you’re out on a powerboat, just keep an eye on your speed and the amount of wash you’re making. They can both be dangerous.
Always make sure you’re travelling at a safe speed for the conditions and keep a proper lookout.
When you’re traveling at night or if there are lots of other boats around, you should slow down.
And don’t forget to look behind and regularly check your wash so you’re not being a nuisance or danger to others on the water.

Lights

When you’re boating at night, it’s a completely different ballgame.
Unlike driving a car where you use your headlights to see where you’re going, with a boat you use your lights to show others where you are.
If your lights aren’t fitted properly, you can’t expect others to see you.
As the captain, you must make sure you have the correct lights, and they’ re in proper working order. Do not operate your boat with the spot light on constantly ( another boater cannot tell if he/she is behind you or in front of you from a distance) or the docking lights on while out on the water.

Proper lookout

The more you know about boating and what to do when you’re on the water, the better your day. One of the most important things you need to make sure you do is to keep a proper lookout at all times.
Things for everyone on board to keep an eye out for are any floating debris, hazards like submerged reefs or rocks, other boats, especially kayaks and dinghies, and of course swimmers.
And if you’re in a navigation channel, entering a narrow passage, or on a sharp bend, always make sure you keep right.

Plan and prepare

Cold water

No matter what you do out on the water, the more you plan and perpare, the better off you’ll always be. And that goes for the bad as well as the good.
If you’re out on a calm summer’s day and boating on a quiet river, the risk of hypothermia is low.
However, if you’re boating offshore, or in high country areas in winter, it’s a totally different story
Good captains and crew always wear the right clothes for the conditions so they don’t get cold and risk hypothermia.
So when you’re getting rugged up to keep out the cold, you should ask yourself, - “Could I swim in this gear if I had to?” If you’re not sure then you should wear a lifejacket. It’s not just a lifesaver, it can also keep you warm .

Boat suitability

No matter what boat you head out on, whether it’s a canoe, jet ski, yacht or even a luxury cruiser, they all have their limits.
So it’s a good idea to make sure whichever one you’re on, that it’s suitable for the conditions.
You should always check the weather forecast before you go and ask about localised river, lake or sea conditions. Above all, be sure that you and your vessel can handle the conditions.

Small boats offshore

When you’re boating offshore, you should think about more than just the adventure. Certain conditions can make it quite risky.
The right thing to do is plan your trip. First and foremost, make sure your boat’s up to it. You should also use different sources to check the weather and check that all safety gear is on board and in proper working order.
Part of your planning should include thinking about wind, waves, tides and also safe havens should the conditions change.
If you’re going more than 2 miles offshore, you need a marine radio and should consider a EPIRB emergency beacon.
And always remember to tell someone where you’re going,, when you expect to return and make sure they’ll check. The easiest way is to use your marine radio to log on with the coastal radio network.

Take care - be prop aware


Boat propellers pose a risk that can be easily ignored or forgotten because they are under the water, ‘out of sight and out of mind’.
 
                                            
 But a strike from a spinning propeller can cause serious injury or even death.

A typical three-bladed propeller - which spins at around 3200rpm - can make more than 160 impacts per second, and can travel from head to toe of an average person in less than one tenth of a second, causing multiple deep wounds.
Boat propeller injuries, if not fatal, are usually severe and disfiguring, resulting in prolonged disability and permanent impairment.
Propeller injuries are preventable. Boat Nut Magazine have launched the Take care - Be prop aware campaign to increase public awareness about the dangers of prop strikes.
Being ‘prop-aware’ is particularly important for people involved in tow sports like water-skiing and wakeboarding, and any time powerboats are used near swimmers or children, such as sailing schools and surf clubs. Being ‘prop-aware’ is also important for people diving or snorkelling out of a vessel, and for boat drivers operating in areas where divers, snorkellers or spearfishers may be present.
It is also important to pass the message on to less experienced people who rent powerboats such as aluminum fishing boats and houseboats.
 



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