WHAT TO CONSIDER WHEN BUYING A USED BOAT

                                                             

 http://boatnutmagazine.com/

WHAT TO CONSIDER WHEN BUYING A USED BOAT 

Easy Tips To Follow

How do I buy the right used boat for my use? Do you know were I can get a deal?, These are the most common questions anyone in the marine service industry gets asked. I have read many advise articles on this topic over the years, most of them are written by persons who are in boat sales or prepared by a boat manufacturer. This is not the case with what you are about to read.

I have had 30 plus years to think of how I would answer these questions. There is a whole host of considerations that need to be addressed before you even think about the boat itself. The first consideration is the plan you have to use and store the boat. Are you going to keep the boat in one location such as, your cottage, a marina, your driveway, or in a storage facility some were. This may seem like an odd first question but it is important. Each one of these answers has specific limitations or costs associated with it. You need to consider the cost of ownership over and above the purchase price of the boat you love. It seems a lot of new boat owners have very limited knowledge of the annual cost of ownership and the complications that boat ownership can create.

If you are considering a trailer boat so you can take the boat with you from one location to another for sport fishing, water skiing, or you may just enjoy seeing and experiencing different bodies of water across the province. Then if this is your choice here are some considerations you need to give to your boat purchase. First do you have an appropriate tow vehicle for the size of boat you want to buy or do you need to keep the boat inside the towing limitations of your current tow vehicle. Are you allowed to store your vessel at home in your driveway or do you need to rent a location to store the boat. This may restrict the size of boat you are able to buy. Remember the distances you plan to tow your boat will dictate the type of trailer you will need to have under the boat and the trailer can add several feet to the length of area you will need to have available for storage.

If you are purchasing a boat to have at your cottage or home on the water, this presents other concerns you need to plan for. What is the depth of the water you have available at your dock, and how long is your dock. Will you be prepared to spend the money to change your dock if necessary. Are there any restrictions on horse power or noise. Do you have facilities were you can go for waste pump outs and gas. What is the nature of the body of water you are using, can it get nasty in bad weather, does the lake have a rocky bottom, is it well marked or hard to navigate, is it common for  boats to hit the bottom or hit hidden debris, where can you launch the boat. You may only have access to a shallow ramp or a beach front.  

If you have selected a marina or yacht club you want to belong to, you must find out what slips are available. Do not buy a boat and assume that your choice of marina will be able to facilitate your boat some marinas have waiting lists for slips. Look at the slip set up and make sure that the boat you purchase will fit. If the boat is wide in beam or to long you will be afraid to take the boat out of the slip, you need to have a comfortable slip to get in and out of. Be sure they have the required facilities your boat will require need such as dockside water and appropriate shore power plug (You may require more than 1 30 amp plug). Know the costs of mooring your boat ,some marinas will charge by length over all and others will charge by the length of the slip do not calculate the cost by the length that the manufacturer places on the boat (an example of this is a 2855 Bayliner is 33 feet length over all). Make sure you can accommodate your extra boating requirements such as storage, BBQ or other on the water toys that you may add to your fleet, such as a tender or a jet ski.

All of the above considerations will cost you money over and above the boat, these costs can pile up and this does not include insurance. If you are not prepared you may have your boat for sale after the first season. I have seen these costs drive out a new boater.

Now lets talk the boat! The biggest consideration for your boat is the budget. Have you ever driven or spent much time on a variety of boats and why are you buying a boat?  How large will your immediate crew be? do you have pets? any crew members with physical restrictions? Is the boat for a weekend cottage or do you plan to get out on the water? Are you a family or person who enjoys camping or will you be a day boater only? It is popular to have a boat for corporate use were you will be entertaining guests? Do you have friends with boats and are you planning to spend a lot of time at and on the boat? Does this boat purchase have to satisfy many personalities and expectations you must be realistic and able to satisfy all the persons who will be spending time on the boat other wise you will be boating alone or selling the boat. Boating is a great way to spend time with friends and family however this only works when you have found the right boat.

These are a lot of questions the more time you spend answering these questions the happier you will be with your choice.

Once you have selected the size of boat and the style (Cruiser, Fishing Boat etc.) of boat you will be shopping for we can then put together a list of things to look for to determine if the boat has been well maintained. We will divide the assessment of the boat into three areas the boat itself which is the structure, the systems which are all the accessories and items added to the boat and motors the propulsion system that gets you through the water. It really doesn't matter the size of the boat when it comes to the structure the same rule of thumb applies. There is the hull, the deck and the internal structure of the boat (stringers and the bulkheads). The hull of the boat is reasonably straight forward.  Always inspect the boat out of the water. Never assume that because the top side of the boat is fantastic that the same goes for the bottom. If you are buying a boat that will be living on the trailer  all the time you are not using it then there are some boats you can immediately knock off the list. The first boat off the list is any boat with bottom paint, this bottom paint will become an unnecessary hassle for you as it will dry up and flake of leaving the boat looking nasty. You will then have to repaint for no reason a waste of money. The next boat to be weary of are boats with painted hulls, the paint can hide a world of damage also paint is not designed to live most of its life underwater.I would not buy a painted hull boat., they are more expensive to fix All boats will get some degree of dock damage. However there are exceptions to every rule, some boats only come factory painted.  These are boats such as a Donzi, Chris Craft and large yachts you can rest assured these are fine, you just need to remember the cost of repair if this is your first boat. Other places to look for use and abuse is along the keel of the boat, and at the transom corners, over and above the normal wear and tear of docks and fenders the keel and the two back corners take the most abuse. What you are looking for is gel coat damage or damage that has been patched up (if the back corners are damaged this could be a sign of a hard boat to handle in reverse). Gel coat repair is generally not hard to spot you look for either areas that don't match in color, are too shiny(a sign of a paint repair) or to dull (indicates old repair area). Some of the other signs of damage are patched up hull graphics or no hull graphics at all.  If all of the factory graphics and logos are gone the boat has probably had repaired damage, these graphics are expensive to purchase and apply and are not always available.

The deck of  a boat can have all of the same issues finish issues as the hull. When it comes to the deck there are obviously a lot more items that will have to be checked over. You will need to check over all the hatches on the deck that are part of the original deck (motor, storage, anchor locker).Open them all up and check the inside for cracks inside of the lids. older hatches could have long cracks across them and newer style hatches that are mold finished inside will develop cracks around the inside edges. These cracks are a sign that the core is wet. Verify the hatches fit correctly and that the latches close when the hatches are closed. Next inspect around the rails and mounted hardware for sealant that has been added after the boat was assembled. This includes around the windshield area. Any build up of sealant is a sure sign that there are leaks in this area which have likely been getting inside the boat. Look over the sides of the deck above the deck and hull joint for cracks in the gel coat. The areas under the cleats are were stress will show up the most, this is a sign that the boat has been in some really bad weather and the cleats have been stressed. If the boat has an arch or a hard top, get up and take a look on top. If this area if it is clean and waxed it is a sign the boat has had genuine care, this area will also show if the boat has had electronics changed or removed usually boaters will just fill these holes on top with silicone. Check the transom door for the fit see if there are any problems with the fit or if the latches have been modified or do not work. Take your time and look over the non skid around the edges you are looking for bad mold areas were the nonskid doesn't have nice clean molded edges, these problems can also exist in the center areas of the non skid. This is a sign of air voids and lamination issues when the boat was built. If the non skid on the boat is not the same type or design all over the boat this is a bad sign this boat has had serious work done to the deck. The only acceptable time to see different non skid is when a boater has added a after market swim platform.

If you are looking at a boat that has extra items like swim platforms, radar arch, generators, hardtops added to the boat  buy an owner at some point be very careful. Boats are sensitive to center of gravity and center line load weight shifts. These are just terms to tell you that adding weight to the vessel after construction can change the performance. If you are looking at a boat that has seen extra accessories like the above list added be sure you run a boat that is an unmodified version to compare too. When you start to mess with center of gravity and load distribution you can destroy the way a boat runs you may need a ladder at the dash to see over the bow when you try to get on plain, no joke... if the boat will not get on plane without full trim tabs maximum trim and all kinds of other tricks then do not buy it.

When you assessing the motors and the mechanical's the first thing you need to check are the hours. In a car we go by mileage when we are calculating a value, in the boat industry we look at hours. A standard rule is 40 hours per year, less is fine with the correct maintenance but way less is not great. Once you start to put time on the boat it will start to cost you money, parts will break down.  Don't be afraid if there are more hours its not a bad thing it tells you the boat has been used. This means that everything likely works as you are buying from a seasoned boater. The truth is you need a mechanics opinion, you can take oil samples, hook up diagnostic computers, read spark plugs, compression checks and much more. Get an independent opinion, when you do this have the seller provide any records of maintenance. Do yourself a favor even if you love the boat, listen to your mechanic. The mechanic may break your heart. The cost associated to this service is peanuts compare to a bad motor or drive. Do not buy a boat that has a drive or engine package that were removed from the market, an example of this is Yamaha inboard outboard configuration , OMC king cobra drive, or any composite drives. You can write a book on this subject here is my suggestion find a good mechanic who will give you the straight truth good or bad have him/her be detailed do not stop at the motors and drives. Have the generator , batteries and other systems checked. I recommend a mechanical survey. Ask for the manuals that came with the boat these manuals contain serial numbers for the motors and drives. If the drives do not match just be sure that the replacements are an exact match for the factory drives this includes rotation and gear ratio. If the motor or motors have been changed unless they are brand new walk away, rebuilt marine engines have a horrible reputation for not lasting long.

The last items that can really hurt the pocket book are the canvas and upholstery. The canvas is just as it seems if it is old and crappy looking and will need to be replaced, even in a year or so get an estimate for money and time. Canvas on a large boat of 30 feet or more can easily exceed $8000.00 dollars. Upholstery can be of a similar cost be careful. There  are lots of boats for sale don't be a speed buyer.

No matter what boat you wish to buy get a mechanical survey and a condition survey, this should reduce the chances of getting a bad deal. Always make your deal based on a sea trial, if this is your first boat bring an experienced boater with you and take the boat from the slip out and back yourself if you can. DO NOT buy a boat you are afraid of and do not pick the perfect day some wind some waves. I cannot stress enough the need to understand your boat and how it works, Do not buy a highly modified boat. Buy a good clean original boat for your first boat. Your first boat will be a learning curve it usually takes owning more than one boat before a boater settles into long term ownership. I cannot advise anyone on a brand or style that's a personal choice buy what works for you. I can suggest that if it is a boat you have not seen a lot of call the manufacturer and see how many were built , go online and check with boat owners clubs or groups this is were you will get the truth about the boat your thinking of buying. This may seem like a simple list but these are the things that are the easiest and fastest to find. Any red flags walk away, always get a professional opinion, do not rely on your friend who owns a boat.

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided.

SPRING START UP PART 4 / THE EXTRAS YOU MADE NEED TO KNOW

                                                                 

 http://boatnutmagazine.com/

SPRING START UP XTRA INFO.

 Part 4

-Tips you need to know specific to your boat, manuals, and a service plans

Boat manufacturers have unique ways of installing systems. These systems can be far different or new in design from the standard systems boats have used for years. Some systems are independent and self contained. Systems which are not tied to the panels or the central on board battery charger. These accessories or systems are quite often installed after the boat is built and must be serviced independently.

An example of a boat builder doing things different is Formula Yachts: Formula separates the waste water leaving the boat into three distinct groups, these three groups of water are recognized  and named. An industry standard Black Water, Grey Water and Clear Water.

Black water: This is the water which is flushed down the toilet. Toilet water is held in the waste water holding tank and is removed by having a pump out. It is illegal to dump black waste water overboard in any in land water ways. You will need to check the laws in the country that you are boating in. If you see your boat or any one else pumping there head directly into the water (this is easy to spot you usually see paper products), inform the boat owner so they can have this system shut off. If it continues you can report this to environment protection. Over time the holding tank and the hoses that connect the head to the tank can start to emit odor. There are additives you can by that you add to the holding tank that reduce the bacterial build up and odor. The hoses to the head are available in different qualities and you may have to change the hoses to get rid of the odor that these hoses will emit. If you smell odor bad when the head is flushed. It is coming from the holding tank vent. You can purchase a vent filter to have installed in line if there is enough room to do so. However if the filter ever gets wet you will have to replace it. Of course time will take its toll on the filter also, so replacement is inevitable

.

Grey water: This is any sink water that goes down the sink drains or shower drain. This water is allowed to be discharged over board. Most boats have a hose from the sink to a thru hull on the hull side. The shower sump uses a bilge pump system to pump the shower water over board, the sump has a screen to catch hair etc. The other water is any fresh or rain water: Of course this water drains to the lake or in some cases to the main bilge.

 Formula: Routes all of the grey water from sinks and shower to a central shower sump and then overboard. So if you own a Formula you will notice a lack of thru hulls on the sides of the boat. If the sump doesn't work on your Formula all that water ends up in your engine compartment to be pumped out by the bilge pump ( this is a very smelly nasty mess), when the engines run and get warm the odor is horrible. So if you own a formula service the shower sump regularly, a sign of a bad sump is the shower and sinks will drain very slowly and your bilge pump will cycle on and eject soapy water. The down side to this configuration is the hoses will fill up with stinky mold if they are not regularly flushed with water.

A tip for any shower sump on any boat is to place a small bromine puck in the sump preferably in the hair strainer this will stop odor and will keep the box from filling with mold (which they do all the time). On any boat if you shower on your boat you must at least every month remove the cover on the shower sump box and clean it out. As boaters we should be aware of the lake environment, if we remember that all the water going down the drains and overboard while washing our boats goes direct to the lake. Boaters should be using only environmentally friendly soaps and cleaners.

Sea Ray Boats for example: Are now using manifolds to feed the cold and hot water lines on the boat.  These manifolds are located close to the water pump, however there are smaller manifolds      forward in areas like the head. These manifolds have drain caps so that when the system is being winterizing, the manifolds can be drained. The manifolds are made out of light weight plastic, and  if not drained can hold some water and freeze. If they are installed backwards you cannot always get the drain cap off.  In the spring if you have a leak the manifolds are were to start looking . The problem is the manifold in the head is usually is the culprit but its not easy to find. This is why it is important to have a trained up to date technician provide your service. Manifolds are an example of new technology in a simple form that can trip up traditional methods of service, new boats, new ideas, new training.

Another system which can be fully independent is your bow thruster: This is the electric propulsion system that allows you to move the boat sideways. This system requires regular maintenance, the props are attached to a small gear case inside a tunnel. This gear case is filled with gear oil, the same as an outboard gear case. Behind the props there is a drain plug to change the gear oil, you will also see an anode to prevent corrosion. Both these items should be on your maintenance program or service schedule. Bow Thruster can be installed as a self contained system at the front of the boat complete with its own battery and charger. If this is the set up you have, you need to service the battery on a regular schedule. You should not have the thruster charger running every time you are at port. this charger should only be turned on if the thruster is in use regularly, or once a month to just maintain the battery, this only requires a couple of hours maintain a charge. If you have had to replace the thruster battery every couple of years.  The charger has probably been over charging the  battery. Never count on the charger to automatically prevent over charging. Do not use the area were the thruster system is located for storage. Heat is generated when you activate your thruster, the electric motor and batteries need to have air flow. One more important item, if you have a configuration were the battery and charger are installed under the forward bed be sure the charger is off when you are sleeping  or using this cabin area. A battery when it is being charged gives off gases that are dangerous to any open flame and dangerous to breath. If you smell a sulfur smell in your boat immediately shut down all chargers and inspect the batteries CAUTION a bad battery will be burning hot and can explode. quite often you can smell a bad battery on a boat when you are walking down the docks. If you smell this odor let someone know right away and unplug the boat from the dock to stop the charger from continuing to work.

The other system you will want to take a look at is your radar. CAUTION: Never go near or open any radar pots when the radar is on , this is very dangerous. If you have a radar pot on the top of your boat, then you have a service point inside, that is almost never addressed. There is a grease fitting on the rotation bearing, it is also a good idea to bring up a vacuum and vacuum the pot out. This not a big deal however it demonstrates the need to read thru your manuals and be familiar with any service responsibilities. Always keep your manuals in a dry location on the boat. do not take them home they are no good to you if you cannot access them in an emergency.

A note about the batteries you  may have on your boat. Be sure you have the correct batteries in the correct locations. You should have information in your manuals that will tell you the correct size of batteries you require. There are start batteries for the motors and generator, deep cycle batteries for your house circuit. In newer boats the batteries information is critical to be sure the computers and latest systems are not over or undersized. DO NOT just swap your wet batteries for gel cell batteries The problem with this is that you must have a charger that will work for a gel cell application other wise you damage the batteries and or charger. In some cases 6 volt batteries are used in series to create 12 volts . Be sure you understand the battery set up in the boat before you switch or change the batteries around. Mark all the leads to the battery before you disconnect them. New boats have changed the ground wire color to yellow from black. You should never have more than three or four wires on a terminal. Never continue to add wires direct to the battery even if they are done correctly add a bus bar. There should only be a charger lead, main lead, bilge pump and possibly the lead to the trim pump.

Manuals that come with the boat: The '"boat bible" should have all the information you need when setting up a service schedule for your boat. Any time you add an accessory or a piece of equipment place the information in your manuals file. If you are purchasing a boat one of the first things you should ask to see are the manuals. The manuals should be in a zipped bag placed on the boat by the manufacturer. You can tell a lot about the vessel and previous owner(s) by how these manuals have been stored and updated. Like an aircraft all service details and receipts should be kept together, in rare cases these manuals are placed in file holders each manual has the receipts for completed services filed with them. This shows that the previous owner(s) were educated about his/her boat. A sign of a well maintained and loved vessel.

Take the time with a service provider to design a maintenance program, the more detailed the service plan the less apt you are to have annoying breakdowns.

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided.

SPRING START UP PART 3 SYTEMS

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

SPRING START UP / SYSTEMS 

 Part 3  in SERIES

Systems

 What does this term mean, well this refers to all the parts and mechanical equipment installed on your boat that either seperatly or in combination provide a service to you on your boat, a good example is the fresh water system.

 THE BATTERIES

 The first thing you must do when your ready to recommission your boat in the spring is to re install the batteries. If you have stored your batteries off the boat, there are three things you need to do before you reinstall them. The first thing is to visually inspect the batteries, if they are swollen (side are bulged out) replace them (it is possible they froze). Second check the levels of water in the batteries, this can be done only if the batteries are considered serviceable.  Serviceable batteries have caps or two covers you can remove and inspect the water levels. WARNING: The water in the battery contains ACID ( be carful when removing the caps). If the levels are low, which means the water level is below the inside top they must be filled with "distilled water" only. Once this is done you need to charge the battery up, and load test them and see if they are good. This test can be done at auto or marine battery sales location (or you can purchase a load tester). If the batteries were flat or kept getting low last year, or the batteries are really low on water, buy new ones. You do not want battery problems this season. When you install you batteries make sure you use the tie downs or hold  down bars attached to the battery trays. Next clean all the terminals and wire ends for the best  connection. When you hook up your wires make sure the negative wires are first to be connected (these wires are black or yellow) . It is important to put the wires on in the right order. This dictates how efficient your charger will work, it also affects the ability of the charger to sense an over charge. Over charge will boil the batteries dry and shorten the chargers life.

 So here is the correct order: 1st wire installed is the charger wire then large main cable and then the balance of the negative wires. There should only be three or four wires on a post, if you have more this is a fire hazard (have a buss bar installed). The reason the charger wire goes on the post first is that most chargers sense heat back up the wire as an emergency shut down. If the charger wire is the last wire on the post the other wires will work as a heat sink and the post will and can overheat. Before you hook up the positive wires (Red Wires) make sure your battery switch(s) are off. Now repeat the process on positive side if you get a load spark when you hook up your positive wires this is a sign of a constant load, the most common constant load is your fridge. When the 120 volt power is off the fridge will automatically switch to 12 volt. If the battery switch is wired correctly it will shut down everything but the bilge pumps, however it is not unusual for this not to be the case. If you do have a load spark have this checked out it is a fire hazard, and will certainly affect the life and recovery of the battery.

.

The next item to check is the battery charger: You will need to have the shore power hooked up at this time. Be sure when connecting or disconnecting the shore power that the 120 main is in the off position. Make sure the 120 volt panel main, and the shore main if you have one is on. The only breaker that should be on is the "charger or converter" depending on how the panel is labeled. If you did not previously charge your batteries and they are dead the charger may not come right on. It does not recognize there are batteries hooked up. Some new chargers require a power signal from the batteries to the charger before it will cycle on. If your charger does not recognize the dead batteries you will need to bring in a trickle charger and get the battery charge started first and then use the onboard charger for the rest of the charge. When the charger cycles on then move to the next system.

Make sure all your 12 volt switches or breakers are off this includes all the dash switches.

 The next system is your bilge pumps: Be sure you know where they are all located. There can be high and low water bilge pumps in the engine compartment, a forward bilge pump in the cabin under the floor. The first test is the float switches. If you have the toggle float style, you test the float switch by lifting the float up and be sure the pump operates. If your boat has built in float switches, look on the side of the bilge pump housing for a small lever, lift and test. If you have a bilge pump or float switch that does not work replace it.(remember to check for a blown fuse first before you replace the parts). Now turn the battery switches on, and turn your bilge pumps on at the dash or manual bilge pump switch. If you have a pump that works on the float switch but not on the manual switch then you need to check your bilge pump fuse at the manual switch side of the circuit. The high water pump located on the side of the stringer will only work automatically there is no manual switch, this pump should have an alarm go off if you trip the float switch. Listen to alarm and become familiar with it, most boaters do not know they have this system (not all boats have a high water pump). This is a good time to bring water on board and test your bilge pumps making sure they pump water overboard and you do not have a broken hose in the boat. When you are satisfied move on to next system.

 BLOWERS: While you have the hatches open its a great time to go ahead and try the engine blowers, and inspect the vent lines going to the blower on one side and the fresh air intake vent line on the other side. If they are cracked replace them. A sign the blower is starting to fail is a high pitched squeal, you will need to replace it.

The next system is the shower in your head.: You likely have a shower sump, turn the sump switch on and pour water down the drain, the shower sump does requires maintenance. To help you locate the shower sump its a square box with a float switch and bilge pump inside. There is a hair trap inside that needs to be cleaned. If the sump doesn't get used much it will fill with mold and smell bad. Grab a disposable paint brush some bleach and a water bucket pour bleach in the sump and use the brush to scrub clean, rinse with lots of water and re install the lid with all 4 of the screws.

The next system will be all the lights: Navigation, anchor, courtesy, interior, etc. Test and be sure they all are working correctly. If you have quartz or regular light bulbs change them for led conversion lamps, they draw very low power and do not make heat. The LED lamp provides much more light.

Now go ahead and test all the other 12 volt accessories on your dash such as horn, electronics, etc. The depth sounder will power up but will not give you a reading it will not read until you are in the water

.

Now we can check the fresh water system: On most boats there are two ways to have fresh water on the boat. The first is dock side water fitting which requires you to hook up a water hose to the dock. This is a female hose fitting (large 4 inches square) with a rubber cover so that when the hose is disconnected, nothing like spiders can plug up the small screen which works as an in take filter. The other way to have water on board is in the water holding tank. Before you fill the tank you must be sure the fresh water pump is hooked up and the hot water heater is hooked up. They are generally disconnected at the time the boat is winterized. Once this has been confirmed go ahead and fill the tank, while its filling (slowly). Go out and confirm that all your vents are clear there should be a small screen in each vent if you are not sure what they look like just wait the water should start to burp out of the vent once the tank is nearly full. Once you have determined what the vents look like check them all there will be one vent for each fuel tank, the holding tank and the water tank. A plugged vent can slow down the flow. Plugged vents will prevent being able to fuel up without burps, the water and holding tanks will collapse as they empty down. If you will here the tanks thump and make sounds there is a problem, have this checked. Expanding tanks can break floors and create leaks

The dock side water system does not require the fresh water pump to be on. The water system on the boat relies on the pressure water coming from the hose you have hooked to the dock. NOTICE: You do "not" need the water pump on while in this configuration. Many times I have serviced boats were the dock side water is hooked up and the 12 volt water pump switch is on this is only keeping the pump hot and shorten the life of the pump. The dock side water system is the best way to test the water system, it will flush any  away remaining anti freeze in the system completely. Go to the furthest tap or water fixture from the water hook up open the tap on the cold side only and flush until water is constant and clean. repeat at all other taps on the boat. Once the cold side is done go ahead and repeat on the hot. You will also need to flush the head if you have vacu flush head or a head which uses the water system on the boat to flush. Manual heads and some electric conversions use lake water taken at a  thru hull in the bottom of the boat to flush. Once you have water at all taps turn the pressure down and leave water on with all the taps closed if you hear water leaking check under the sinks for leaks. At the same time open the floor hatches and the motor hatch look for any new water. If there is water you have a leak, and you will need to get it fixed or fix the issue yourself. if you have no issues go ahead and disconnect the hose from the dockside fitting. Turn on the water pump open some taps and confirm that the fresh water pump is pumping water. When you close all the taps the pump should automatically shut down. If the pump continues to cycle ten you either have a leak or the pressure setting on the pump head needs to be adjusted.

There are added items that can be tied to your water system, one is the ice maker and the other would be a washer dryer combo. if you have these read the instructions on start up.

The last system to go over are the mechanical systems: This includes the motor(s) and the generator. You will first need to check all the fluids and make sure they are at the right levels before turning a key. If you have an Inboard Outboard this will include the gear lube in the drive.(the same goes for an Outboard motor).With an Inboard Outboard or and Outboard configuration you can get water to the engines with a set of flush muffs that will need to be specific to your lower unit. Using the wrong flush muffs could cause the water pump to draw air and burn out the impeller. I suggest you have two people at start up time, one on the boat and one on the ground in control of the water. Once the water hose is in place the captain should head for the helm and with the engine hatch open and the drive down (do not run with drive up)." You want to have a visual of the motor(s)". The person who is going to start the motor gives the ok to turn on the water, be sure the hose is not wrapped around the prop. Confirm water and the captain can start the motor. Here is what to look for at the dash immediate oil pressure, and then confirm there is no water exiting the engine any were, either one of these is a failure immediately shut off the motor. If the motor is running fine the person on the ground must confirm there is water coming out of exhaust, if the block is empty this may take a couple of minutes. If  there is no sign of water out of exhaust after a few minutes turn off motor. Let the engine cool down and try again ( no water again on the second try call a technician in to take a look).  If this checks out fine give the motor a slight rev up and confirm the flow out the exhaust increases. Now shut the motor down, Turn off water right away. Check the fluids again for any sign of contamination or drop in level. If you experience any of these issues, get a professionals opinion do not run anymore (Do not launch the boat). If it is ok then be sure the garden hose is clear of the prop and the prop can spin without hitting the ground , turn on water restart the motor let it warm up to operating temperature and try a shift sequence. Duplicate the process on the other side if you have twins, this does not mean your out of the woods yet but, you can launch knowing that the boat will run and shift.

.

In an inboard configuration the delivery of water to the engine can be tricky, depending on how the boat is rigged. If the boat is rigged with flush kits this is were you can hook a garden hose to a fitting located on the deck it is usually a chrome fitting with a black plastic cap on a chain, There is a hose from the back of this fitting to a plastic j flush fitting on the main water line near the motor water pump. If you have this configuration you can run a garden hose to the boat and run the engine. You do need to be aware a big block motor can and will take so much water it will flatten the hose and the motor will starve for water. This will burn out the impeller in the water pump. If you have basket strainers you can close the thru hulls and put the hose end in the strainer fill it and while the water is running start the motor (be sure to reopen thru hulls when you are done). The last option is to remove the hose from the thru hull couple your garden hose to it and run the motor (this is the safest way). In any of these cases you need a second person either on the keys or in the engine room. Once you have water to run the motor(s) the steps are the same as above Inboard Outboard motor information in the last paragraph. WARNING: it is NOT advisable to put the boat in gear in a inboard configuration as the props can hit the ground and you cannot be sure the shaft is lubricated at the stuffing box were the shaft passes through the hull.

Check all belts and give the motor a good visual inspection. Check all hoses even the large exhaust hoses if they are not stiff and are soft then you need to remove and inspect they can blister on the inside and block exhaust flow at higher rpm and create an overheat with lots of smoke. Check the mufflers and inspect the whole engine room for things like corrosion, oil, any contaminants. The generator follows the inboard procedure in most cases its better to leave the generator until after launch.

At the time of launch bring a buddy, when the boat starts to float check below all the floors , and in motor compartment for leaks.Once you have determined there are no leaks. go ahead and start the motor(s). Have your buddy watch for any issues such as overheat. Running the boat on land can hide a bad water pump impeller because the water used to cool the motor is under pressure. Now the motor must pump all the cooling water on its own.. Take a little drive at low RPM range and watch the motors for any issues this will show up on the gauges don't just take the boat and gun it across the lake.

Be sure you air conditioning and generator thru hull is closed at this time and open them when your ready to start these systems. Treat each system the same way always check for leaks. There will be air conditioning start up information in the next blog, any questions please ask.

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided.

SPRING PLAN PART2 /BELOW THE WATER LINE

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

SPRING START UP BELOW /THE WATER LINE

Part  2 of Series

Below the water line, some of these suggestions require you to protect your self and the environment. I cannot stress this enough as most materials suggested are corrosive and are not  environmentaly friendly.

The first step is to check around the water line area. If you do not have bottom paint you will very likely have an area of stains and growth along the hull sides. Quite possibly under the whole bottom, do not be surprised if one side is worse than the other. The growth is always more substantial on the sunny side. To clean this up you can use a product designed for bottom cleaning , this is basically muriatic acid in different dilution levels. You can purchase muriatic acid in the paint department at a paint supply or swimming pool supply store. You will also need to purchase a couple of quality squirt bottles, you will need to dispose of them when you are done. NOTICE: If you are on a galvanized trailer do not proceed, it will blacken the trailer, the other area to watch is trim tab rams the black plastic will whiten. You can re spray these with black spray paint.

The next step requires you to protect your lungs, eyes and hands. Don't start without a garden hose and water set up to reach around the boat (this must be done ahead of time). Wet the ground area under the boat try not to get the hull wet,  put on mask gloves and long sleeve shirt, pour the acid in spray bottle and spray the whole boat from water line down to keel. You can also spray the drive(s), prop(s), and trim tabs. If you have support posts going to swim platform spray these also. You will hear and see it work. Do not let it dry, you will see it turn yellow as it works, now completely rinse the whole area (everything you sprayed with the acid). You will notice right away the areas you missed or areas that need to be done again. NOTICE: your spray bottle will not last very long the spring inside breaks down, also be aware this works the best after the hull has been pressure washed. This same acid will remove rust from the deck. In this procedure I recommend a wax lined cup and a small brush. You brush the acid on the rust watch it yellow and immediately rinse. If you need to repeat until rust is gone. Gel coat is not affected by this treatment, as gel coat is a type of plastic. Now that the hull is clean and dry you can inspect for damage, service drive and touch up paint, replace anodes if required and prep for bottom paint if this is your plan. What is important, is to note your water line at launch time, there is a good reason for this over time a boat will pick up weight and the water line is a tell tail that excessive weight has been gained. Your boat can also show a list or tilt to port or starboard you can eliminate a list by reloading the boat ( if not have a repair shop check the boat). You can move batteries or anything you store with weight to the high side of the boat. One way to keep track of your waterline is by photos or measure from rub rail to water in the same place each year, please be sure you have the same fuel ,water and gear load every time you do this. If you are noticing the list or water line is getting deeper it's time to find out were the boat is getting wet. It could be a flotation locker or rotten structure. This will change fuel burn and performance it does not take much water in foam or structure to make big changes to the boats performance.

Now that the bilges and the outside hull is clean it's time to check all below the water hardware. Check all the screws that hold tabs brackets etc. if they move or are loose pick up some 5200 sealant pull them out and rebed them (a tip for 5200, have a can of WD40 and clean rags handy for clean up it works like a dream spray on rag or surface to make clean up easy). Now check all thru hull backing blocks this is were every thru hull passes through the boat on the inside, some boats have wood blocks, this is were the nut inside tightens down. Quite often over time these blocks get water logged. What happens is the blocks freeze in the winter and crack allowing a mystery leak to start. If you see that the block is soft cracked or the sealant looks bad, change the block. New boats now come with starboard plastic blocks complete with labels instead of wood blocks this is a great upgrade. If you have purchased a used boat and around the out drive housing out side there is sealant "this is a red flag" this should not be there take your boat to a repair shop and have them determine why this had to be done. This is usually a sign of a rotten transom and it will leak. The issues I just went over are generally why you have a mystery wet bilge when the boat is just sitting at the dock. If you have  water leaking in from the back of the engine in an inboard outboard configuration, when not running it is probably bellows related (please read mechanical start up blog for details) this will sink the boat!! A bellows leak will only get worse the only way to slow down this leak is to trim the drive all the way down and leave it down until you pull the boat.

If you have bottom paint how do you know weather or not to repaint, and what to use. Please check your local rules and environmental laws before you sand or pressure wash anti foul. WARNING: If you pressure wash bottom paint and you are next to another boat you will cover it with a mist that contains anti foul this will dry and stain the canvas and the gel coat. This can do a lot of damage to your neighbors boat, and leave you liable. Do not do this. If you can see thru the bottom paint or have excessive growth it's time to repaint the hull. A few things to check before repainting, is the water line high enough? If you have areas above the line were growth is taking place then you need to raise the line in this area, not all around. Take a line at the back corner one inch above growth and make a new neat line to were you have an appropriate amount of paint showing above the water line on the side of your boat. On any areas were you are raising the paint line you must sand the gel coat area. If the rest of the paint has been pressure washed clean your okay to go. WARNING: do not paint transducers, anodes, trim tabs, or drives with regular bottom paint. As a matter of fact you should leave 3/4 of an inch around the drive housing on the transom. The reason for this is anti foul is high in copper, the drive housings are alloys, the tabs are stainless steel. If the bottom paint and the other metals touch you are promoting corrosion. If you paint the anodes the anti corrosion system will fail. If you paint the transducers the electronics such as depth sounders won't work. Now that you have checked all the mechanical items and parts mounted to hull you can check see if there is any damage to the gel coat fix these areas first then proceed with paint.

  Bottom paint on the sides of the hull will wear faster than the bottom so some years you may require what's called a belly band. This is when you paint an area just around the water line as wide as you need and touch up any damaged or thin spots in the bottom paint only. Bottom Paint Tip; black anti foul always works the best. Why? Well I am not exactly sure but maybe they put more copper in this color. To purchase the correct paint for your boat see your local supplier. There are different paints for different boats (slow speed paint, high speed paint etc.). Here are a couple of things you need to know about anti foul paint. This paint is designed to be in the water all the time, it works by allowing the growth to slide off or slof. So anti foul is always wearing away. If you leave anti foul out of the water to long it dies or dries out and flakes away at this point it no longer works. Painting a trailer boat with anti foul only makes sense if your boat is always moored in water. Remember if your buying a boat, bottom paint can hide a world of sins. I always wonder why a trailer boat is painted, if you paint a small boat you may hurt the value, and have a lot of questions when you go to sell it. You do not need to apply bottom paint really heavy a nice even moderate coat works great.

Always remember to do the block spots. Bottom growth if allowed to build up will prevent your boat from being able to get on plain or preform. It's a good idea during the season to inspect the growth and keep your hull clean. Over growth will also cause motors to overheat, bellows to get damaged, transducers to fail and a host of other issues. If you have this issue make a service plan to keep it to a minimum.

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided.

TIME TO STAR GETTING YOUR SPRING PLAN TOGETHER !

 http://boatnutmagazine.com/

TIME TO THINK ABOUT SPRING

Spring boat opening, what to look for and tricks to save you money

Part 1

Its that time of year when boaters get excited, its time to get your boat up and running for another great boating season. So what needs to be done and in what order? First sit down and make a list of what issues may have followed you from last fall, this should be your priority. This list may include items other than repairs or maintenance to the boat, check your items you took home or stored away on the boat for damage like mold or mildew, if there any life jackets or gear with mold or mildew  replace the item(s) and clean what you can.. Also confirm details or your slip for this season (its never to early), If you are planning a move from one marina to another, arrange transportation or any outside services you need as soon as possible. As spring service providers gets busy, a delay may shorten your season.

EXTERIOR AND UNDER THE HATCHES

In parts of the world were our boats are stored outside, shrink wrapping is a standard way to protect the boat from snow and ice. One of the draw backs to shrink wrapping boats the way we do is the moisture build up under this cover even when its well vented. Particularly if the boat is wrapped early, or if the fall had been wet or you have a wet bilge. This water will try to evaporate as soon as the temp starts to rise. The moisture will collect on the inside of all surfaces (as there is little air flow). The next thing you know, there is mold mildew and dry rot starting in your boat. Have you ever opened a deck hatch, it appears all black on the inside and on the locker walls. Quite often this occurs in the floor lockers and engine compartment. You know the moisture has been bad when you open the engine hatch and run your hand over the motor(s) and the water runs off your hand.To help prevent this next year, consider late wrapping after the boat has experienced some dry winter air  Always unwrap as early as possible in the spring so you can and let the boat air out. This is particularly true on low hour boats as the heat from the motors really doesn't dry out the bilges and areas below the deck often enough. One great solution to remove excess moisture is to run a dehumidifier on the boat for the last week while the plastic is still on. Open the hatches and take advantage of the cover and remove as much moisture as possible. You may need to continue this after unwrapping for a few days. In the cabin and in the engine compartment. This idea will pay dividends for you, your boat and the motor(s). 

 After you dry the areas up: To clean up mold and mildew get yourself some bleach and a spray bottle, open the lockers and storage areas, spray the straight bleach all over, as far as you can reach, let it sit and rise with clean water. You will see an immediate difference, it will clean things up nicely. You will see the condition of the boat structure, hoses and even wire harness in the area. A return to a clean and original state. Not only does its clean up but it makes things clean to inspect and to work on. This clean up will also reduce nasty odors in the boat. As a matter of fact you can do the whole deck and hull this way before further maintenance is done. You will see the white plastic components such as windlass foot controls, lights, antenna mounts, & plastic housings such as radar and GPS look like new. Do this with the canvas off it usually wont discolor the canvas but it will eat up stitches. When your bilges and lockers are cleaned up. A trick to keep the odor down in any areas that are considered wet or you know collect water is to pick up a small container of chlorine tablets for a hot tub or swimming pool.  Toss one in each of these wet areas. This will keep the water clean clear and odorless, it will also prevent mold and mildew. Any bilge pumps in these wet bilge area will stay clean and the inside of the hoses will remain clean and unobstructed.

Once you have completed the above task get out the bucket and soap and a soft brush and wash up the boat, a soft brush is important I have witnessed boaters scrub the hull with a stiff brush or a brillo pad. Do not do this it will damage the gel coat surface, creating even scratches over the whole hull. This is expensive to have this fixed and this damage is more visible on colored hulls, No hull should require this type of scrubbing. It will not improve the shine or remove any discoloration (fog) on colored hulls. Just give the boat a good cleaning. After rinsing the boat go inside check all the windows and along the deck and hull joint and see if you have any leaks, make notes for repair. Check any "dry storage" lockers for the water. In sunken aft seating areas (aft settee) were the floor drops check the floor for any sign of water, these aft cabin areas are generally were rain water leaks will show up. The floor area here is sunk down and there is very little room under the floor making it the lowest point. This floor area is usually full of foam underneath, so once wet its stays wet until the floor area gets soft. The floor is glassed to the hull here so any water intrusion will find its way to this floor area first. If you do see water try to follow it up walls and get this fixed as this will get wet all the time. This is an area were boats pick up weight (this can be noticed easily if your water line is getting higher every year). This is a great time to use that dehumidifier and place it in cabin close all doors and hatches and run it as much as you can before launch, you will be amazed how much it will pull out of your boat. This will remove odor and add years to the life of your boat!

 

DECK DRAINS

Make sure that all the deck drains are working correctly, start at the anchor locker and work your way back all drains including aft sink drains. Its a good idea to visually check the anchor locker drain inside the locker. Also check the most forward area of storage below the anchor locker inside the boat. The anchor locker collects sand and seaweed from the chain or rope this blocks the drain and creates leaks into the cabin. Another issue that can create a water leak from the anchor locker is a damaged or a plugged  clam shell cover (s) on the outside of the hull (stainless cover over the outside of the anchor locker drain) . If you trailer your boat or store your boat on a trailer you can damage the chrome clam shell and reduce or prevent flow. Remember on most boats rain water will run into the locker and escape out through the drain the anchor locker is not designed to hold water. When water gets into forward lockers or in forward bilges ninety percent of the time its from the anchor locker area.

 

POLISH AND WAX

After all of the cleaning and drains are checked you are ready to polish and wax the exterior, If you run into a time crunch at least do the hull you can always reach the deck from the dock. Plan to do the hull and any areas you can't reach from the dock on some models this may include the area above the rub rail. Believe it or not do this before any gel repair are completed as the fresh polished gel is the easiest to match. It also allows you to easily see areas in need of repair, as you go along and mark the areas for repair (a small piece of masking tape works best). By cleaning and polishing first you will prevent dark rings around your gel repairs.(This information covered in Part 2)  There are a few things you need to know if you are going to polish on your own, its a long tough job that takes patience and the correct supplies and equipment. Without the investment in the correct supplies and equipment you really are wasting your money. There is bad news for some boaters if you have a colored hull you want to shine up, some hulls are just not going to respond to all this work ( See our article on colored hulls).  A good example is an older boat from the eighties that has not seen proper maintenance or a dark blue or black hull on a Rinker. This work will probably only look good for a few weeks or months,  the colors can appear uneven all over. Rinker colored hulls just don't last they tend to go dull and milky, On any hull, you may fight with old gel repair areas that were done with poor quality gel or to much tint they will continue to give you problems with color and finish.  There are several compounds and waxes to choose from I cannot advise you at this time which to use ( but we will as soon as we are authorized to), ask your local supplier for their advise. You will need to follow the instructions of the product you purchase, Remember if you buy quality supplies the material does all the work, you are looking to create the correct temperature of the pad resistance on the gel of the hull or deck to get a good shine. once polish and wax is done clean up the mess and prep for gel repairs (This information in next article).

The next step is the canvas the large panels with no windows can go in the washer, do not dry. You may need to go to an industrial washing machine to do this, get the canvas back on while still damp. A little vaseline on the snaps lubricates and prevents corrosion. Some chap stick on the plastic zippers works great keeping plastic zippers from failing, but only do this if there are no repairs. If you need any repair work now is the time. Once the canvas is clean and dry you can spray with scotch guard to water proof the material however if you can see sunlight at the stitches this area will still leak, it maybe time to replace panels. When it comes to windows if they are foggy try a little pledge if this doesn't work there is Clear To See a product available from your marine parts store. If they wont come back replace the panel(s). Any tricks generally do not work! To keep your windows longer you must keep some oils in the plastic (this is were regular pledge does the trick), Keep your widows from touching the stainless bars. The plastic will burn when it comes in contact with the bars, foam pipe insulation cut to length is an easy fix.

Stainless can be cleaned up easily, At your local dollar store pick up a bag of stainless steel pads for pot cleaning and just rub the stainless clean, make sure the pieces you are polishing are stainless steel and no platted plastic or other platted materials.. You can wax stainless once its cleaned.

Some extra tips for exterior acetone on a rag for rubber rub rail insert, do not wax the nonskid areas, use rain x on windows, always carry a philips screw driver and tighten screws on your hardware.

 

 Look for Boat Nut Media plan's Spring Start Up Part 2

Gel Repairs, Below the water line, Systems, Mechanical, Upholstery, Appliances, and The rest.

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™. No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided.

Digital media in the boating industry

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

 Why develop digital media?

Boating TV, Boat Nut TV by Boat Nut Media a you tube channel?

We have been working on this idea for two years now, and finally the topic is getting some press! So what will the Boat Nut TV You Tube channel and mobile application be about and will it work?

We already know that there is a strong interest in boating in Ontario and through out Canada. By utilizing this digital medium we will only capitalize on this interest. According to an article regarding digital  video media in Boating Industry "this idea pours fuel on the fire" in other words, interest goes off the chart. After all we just finished a record setting boat show in Toronto. What better time than now? Our market is growing, and where are boaters going to become informed? The internet, through boating groups and clubs, where feed back is being passed direct from boater to boater? Some of this consumer advice is discriminatory and all together incorrect. The amount of advice that is passed from one boater to another is huge! Large areas of these sites are dedicated to advice on products ranging from boats to accessories. As a matter of fact the boat builders have built and supported many of these sites and have the ability to track and use the data captured.

So what happens if we do educate boaters and they don't like what they find out. This could happen however this should not create any obstacles.  This feedback will lead to an increase in product development, creation of better boater friendly systems and improved service, better for all boaters.

According to the same article ,
Fact* more than 90%of boaters are going on line during the buying process
Fact* by 2017 74%of all internet consumption will be video based according to research from Invodo
Fact* those using video the right way in today's boat selling market are killing it on their market

The viewership numbers are more impressive 539,436 minutes of viewing, this is one salesman, one dealer, spectacular when you look at it this way. More than 24 hours of viewing in a 24 hour period This can be achieved by a dealership running their own ads. What can be done by  Boat Nut Media when we launch an entire online network of programs, with the ability to tailor it to boaters needs and questions. Not just boat sales, but responding to boaters needs covering the whole boat ownership genre. Boat Nut Media will not be a traditional half hour or one hour program giving a splattering of fast moving, half informative segments. It will run 24/7 ( unlimited potential) allowing for detailed information to be delivered and reviewed on demand.

 With technology in the boat industry out pacing us, this format will allow for extended topical discussion. Providing valuable details boaters will truly be able to use. Boat Nut Media will have an unlimited topic pool to choose from so we satisfy all boaters questions and needs. Boat Nut Media will be sure we are meeting these goals by continually monitoring feed back from viewers and industry partners. We want to maintain a point of presence in the boating community. This will be achieved by having our network provided to yacht clubs, marinas or business establishments that cater to boaters we provide the set up and equipment. They receive, dedicated  boating entertainment for their members or patrons. In Ontario there are at least 82 Commercial Ontario Marinas with websites "Ontario Yacht Clubs" and hundred's of established business's such as bars, restaurants, chandlery stores, gas bars etc.


Our you tube channel will not be plugged up with commercials. Boat Nut Media has decide to work with a select group of partners from the industry, companies who demonstrate legitimacy in wanting to educate and connect with their customers. Boat Nut Media and all its partners must maintain integrity in all of the segments that are presented to boaters. Using this digital media will mean thinking outside of the box, and maintaining non bias opinions refusing to base these opinions on advertisers or financial contributors. Boat Nut Media will also be placing and providing live web cams at some of the busiest boating locations and destinations in Toronto for 2015 with plans to expand this to all boating communities in Ontario as soon as possible. Of course we will be providing weather and boating related news. Being a boating based network we will be creating our programs to be as entertaining as they are educational (every boater has a great story to tell). Our first step will be to introduce you to our crew, we all love boating and we are all boat nuts

Boat Nut Media is looking forward to launching this program in April 2015! If you have any input we would be happy to hear from you. Can you see the opportunity?
                            WE   WILL   MAKE   A   BOAT   NUT   OUT   OF   YOU  !!

Thanks to - Boating Industry
How to Generate More Leads and Sell More Boats
Matt Sellhorst   2015
BoatDealerProfits.com

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided.

West Marine is done in Canada!

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Have you heard the news?

West Marine is closing all of its Canadian Stores, they are closing as there leases come due. So what does this mean for Canadian boaters? Well first this has been a source of parts, advise, and nice shoes, available seven days a week in our main boating communities across Ontario. I must say there mechanical parts inventory was not grade A, however they were always there and quite often could get you out of a pinch.

This news was a surprise as we are a growing boat market, Ontario was one of the fastest growing markets particularly when the US economy crashed. This is a typical US managed company that tries to fit there model into our market. The Canadian market is assumed to be the same as the US but we are not! West Marine had a great opportunity to ask there customers, after all we all became members of there discount program, how they could make a change to improve the bottom line. This falls back to what Boat Nut Media has been saying all along ask the boaters what they need, they will tell you, most are frustrated and will be happy to share their opinions. Why bother with a membership if you only are concerned with the bottom line. I digress this will leave us with Canadian Tire as the only chain store to purchase marine products seven days a week all over the province. This could be alright. We all shop Canadian Tire they just need to improve there inventory and product selection. I sure hope they understand the needs of Ontario boaters.

To all you boaters happy hunting for deals on bottom paint winterizing supplies etc. If your in Toronto you will be okay we have other options like Genco Supply. If you are in a market like North Bay lets hope Canadian Tire picks up the slack. Good Bye West Marine it was good while it lasted, but wait were can I use my points?

Lets blame there failure on "duties and taxes, its not worth while" a direct quote from a US supplier of product to Canada, from Ontario and Canadian Boaters to you WE ARE WORTH IT remember 2009 and 2010 when we were still buying boats and accessories come on!

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided.

Boating in Toronto- One Hull of an Adventure

 

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Toronto / One Hull of an Adventure        Regional Boater Access Development Program

So what is there to do when boating in Toronto or surrounding area?

Most of the local boaters in the city of Toronto are of the opinion that boating in the city is sort of boring. I guess if you consider the inner harbor your only boating option. You are right, we can go into the eastern gap, through the inner harbor out the western gap around the back of the island, then back to your slip for a BBQ and drinks. For a real adventure we can go the other way!

You can overnight at Toronto Island if you can find a spot on the wall, what a disappointment when you load up your party get over to the island and find its full. Now your arranging the rest of your trip without a plan, with a restless crew, not at all a fun way to find yourself particularly if its an occasion day. Through the week however you will probably find a nice spot, but on a weekend or on a long weekend you need to take your boat over days early to get a slip. If you have good weather its even more frustrating. On the other hand it is possible to open the throttles for five minutes and drop the anchor at the western end of Toronto Island. You should know it can get rough and very crowded.. Other options include the local big cruise, you can go to Port Credit or around the point to Woodbine Beach. Wow your right kind of boring!

The sad part of all this is there is always something going on in this city. Toronto like every other major city on the water under utilizes this fantastic water front we have. Boat Nut Media has thought about this and why boaters are bored with this region. We have come to a couple of conclusions on why local boaters do not utilize or attend local events or destinations. First they are not informed of when, where and who to go or see, they generally find out by word of mouth or by accident. Any events which are promoted for boater attendance are poorly organized to handle their needs. The second conclusion is the destination stops such as bars or restaurants downtown are confusing to get to (where can you legally tie up and leave the boat for a period of time), or these business's  have terrible docking facilities, docks that will damage a your pleasure boat (these are mainly ship peers they are to high and made of concrete) No security leaving your boat at risk of uninvited boarding and theft.

Toronto has a lot of great places and things to do while boating, they just don't understand the needs of boaters, you can not just assume because the event or business is on the water boaters will show up to enjoy themselves and spend money. Promotion, and consideration of needs will allow boaters to take advantage and enjoy the Toronto boating region completely. The lake the rivers and all that surrounds us. For this reason Boat Nut Media will promote Toronto One Hull of an Adventure. We will contact and work with any and all business's and events which would be of benefit to both parties. If you have any ideas, events or business' you as a boater would like to improve, promote or change please contact Boat Nut Media.

Boat Nut Media will be looking to partner with the province and local municipalities on behalf of boaters needs currently and consideration in future development. We will keep you posted!

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided.