Showing posts with label Used Boats. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Used Boats. Show all posts

Friday, 12 August 2016

LIFE JACKET DESIGN WINNERS









Life Jacket Design Competition Winners
 

2015 Life Jacket Design Competition Winners Announced

 
Sponsored by the BoatUS Foundation for Boating Safety and Clean Water and the Personal Floatation Device Manufacturers Association (PFDMA), the 2015 Innovation in Life Jacket Design Competition attempted to answer the question: What would a modern life jacket look like if you threw out the rulebook and started with a clean slate?
The goal of the competition was to rethink a 100-year-old design, seek out the newest technologies and design innovations and develop interest in newer, more versatile life jackets. Design entries were judged on the following criteria: innovation, wearability, value/affordability, reliability, versatility and practicality.
A team of five judges from the boating, paddling and life jacket manufacturing industry reviewed nearly 250 contest submissions from as far away as Mongolia and New Zealand, and also asked recreational boaters to vote for their favorite design entry.
Competition Judge and Image Base Vice President Joe Fogarty said, “Whether a commercial enterprise, an individual inventor-entrepreneur, a student or a group of Scouts, the 2015 Life Jacket Design Competition brought forth a lot of creativity. The entries we chose will not only keep us afloat, but showed thoughtfulness, problem solving and practicality.”
Judge Lili Colby, Owner and “chief PFDiva” at paddlesport life jacket manufacturer MTI Adventurewear said, “It was exciting to see that so many of the competitors shared a common goal to create more wearable product for the average recreational boater. Thinking ‘out of the box’ not only meant that the designs need to work, but that they also need to look good and be comfortable to wear. I wouldn’t be surprised to find a number of the finalist’s designs make it to market someday if they can be US Coast Guard approved.”
Winners of the design competition received a share of $15,000 in prize money: $10,000 to First Place, $3,000 to Second Place and $2,000 to Third Place.

Winner Announcement Video:



Here is a breakdown of the three winners:

life jacket design winner

First Place: Michael Garman – Foam Filled Jacket

Michael Garman of Moseley, Virginia submitted his prototype design that uses two-part expanding foam encased in a comfortable thermal fabric that’s designed to keep the wearer cool. The design uses a smartphone app to submit exact body measurements to the factory where the lifejacket is custom molded, offering a perfect fit right out of the box. A heat reflecting fabric can be used on cold days to help keep the wearer warm – or reversed for hot days that combine with an inner fabric mesh to keep the wearer cool. Accessories such as a rear mounted hydration pack – great for paddlers – and custom pocket choices add versatility. A built-in signal mirror and whistle improve safety.


 
 
 

lifeshirt floatation device

Second Place: Jimi Beach of Aegis Safety Products – Life Shirt

Jimi Beach of the two-year-young Aegis Safety Products in Orlando, Florida took second place with his brand new, soon-to-market, inflatable floatation “Lifeshirt” that blends affordability with comfort and performance. The “actionwear” design looks similar to a sport shirt and is intended for a range of uses from boating to surfing. Offering automatic or manual inflation, a patented design resists inadvertent inflation from rain or splashes but activates instantly when the user’s head or shoulders submerge. Retail pricing is expected to remain consistent with or lower than other PFDs on the market. Lifeshirt is currently undergoing certification for adults and children in a lightweight performance class of personal floatation devices. LifeShirt is expected to be available Spring 2016.


 
 

comfort flex life vest

Third Place: Jessie Kate Brown – Comfort Flex Life Vest

Jessie Kate Brown of Lafayette, Louisiana submitted a theoretical design for the “Comfort Flex Life Vest,” a comfortable form-fitting design that increases visibility and inspires user confidence. “Relief cuts” on the side add buoyant material while a new hinge point and a lobster tail-like relief cut on the middle of the back of the jacket allow the wearer to easily bend their body, unlike some current vest-style designs which have one-piece backs. A reflective collar, and an athletic spandex shell and liner increase comfort and wearability.

More Design Finalists

All 11 finalists of the Life Jacket Design Competition can be found on the Boat US. 
 
STORY and PICTURES from:

Marine Marketing Tools Logo


To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.





Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
 

Friday, 5 August 2016

SEEING IS BELIEVING / YAMAHA OUTBOARD




 

SEEING IS BELIEVING !

YAMAHA OUTBOARD

 
I do not know if this was a 100% fluke but it is 100% fact. I watched with some surprise today as a 30 HP 2003 Yamaha Outboard sprang to life, nothing special about that on any other day. However today was special!
 
This outboard motor was rolled into a garage 7 years ago almost to the day, and not been touched at all. The owner hooked up the day tank with new gas and hooked up a new battery. Pumped the primer bulb and turned the key with no other preparation at all. That motor started right up, that little outboard even pumped a stream of water from the tattle tale, it was no a disappointment!
 
This is a fresh water motor but to fire right up and idle after seven years is remarkable. I would have expected it to try and run , we were impressed. This is a testament to Yamaha Outboard Motors. It will require new fluids, plugs, fuel filter and a new water pump impellor to get back on the water but that's it. I am looking forward to the first ride to see if this little motor will be everything we expect it to be. After all the fall of 2009 to summer 2016 is a long off season.
 

So here is to Yamaha Outboard and this 30 HP motor, I have to say after that test I would buy one! 

 
Image result for 2003 yamaha 30 hp outboard





To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.






Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
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Wednesday, 3 August 2016

COMMERCIAL & NON COMMERCIAL MARINE EDUCATION




 

COMMERCIAL & NON COMMERCIAL MARINE EDUCATION

 
 

COURSES ARE AVAILABLE IN TORONTO CANADA

 
 
ALL COMMERCIAL MARINE COURSES WILL BE OFFERED WITH A TRANSPORT CANADA APPROVED CURRICULM AND INTSRUCTORS. THE EDUCATION CENTER HAS ALSO BEEN APPROVED BY TRANSPORT CANADA
 
Commercial courses are designed for persons who have desire to work in the commercial marine industry. If you are using your boat for charters you must educate yourself to meet the legal requirements for legal operation.
 
 
ALL NON COMMERCIAL BOATING COURSES WILL BE OFFERED BY A TRAINED EXPERT IN THE REQUIRED FIELD. COURSES HAVE BEEN VETTED BY INDUSTRY AND OR GOVERNING BODIES.
 
Non commercial courses are designed to educate vessel owners or operators in various subjects related to vessel ownership. All graduates will receive a diploma and an opportunity to save on parts and insurance.
 
 
CLASS SIZES ARE LIMITED / NON COMMERCIAL COURSES WILL BE AVAILABLE ON LINE FOR INTERNATIONAL VESSEL OWNERS.
 
Please Link to  http://boatnuteducation.freeblog.site/  for all the information you will need.
 
 



To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.






Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
Connect with the Magazine web site 

Monday, 1 August 2016

HEADS UP HOW DOES MY MARINE HEAD WORK?


 

HEADS UP   HOW DOES MY MARINE HEAD WORK?


When it comes to power boat system questions they come in waves, right now it is marine head questions. How does my marine head work? There are four types of marine heads that production power boats generally install (not one of them will work like your home toilet). At home gravity, a few gallons of water and a siphon effect do the job. With the waste being carried away in large 3 inch pipes. On a power boat things are totally different, there is no gravity or siphon effect and certainly not a 3 inch drain pipe.

Power boats are set up with a Porta Potty, Manual Pump Head, Electric Head or Vacu Flush Head. Each one of these heads represents a completely different way of flushing away waste and have there own unique good and bad characteristics. Only two of these heads are truly interchangeable with out a large amount of additional modification to the vessel. As a matter of fact a Porta Potty does not even qualify as a marine head in some jurisdictions when it pertains to power boat laws.

If your boat has a PORTA POTTY:


A Porta Potty install will mean that your boat is not equipped with either a fresh water system or a waste holding tank (BLACK WATER). This is the most basic head installation that you can have on a power boat. The Porta Potty provides a place to go, however the filling of water for flushing and handling of the waste tank is manual. The Porta Potty latches to the floor with two brackets, one on each side at the bottom of the unit so you can remove and dump the waste. The issue with this is the dumping of this waste, you have to locate a place to do this that is safe and convenient. Some boat owners and manufacturers have manufactured a system where the Porta Potty has been modified.  There has been a waste hose attached to the bottom waste holding tank complete with a waste discharge fitting installed on the deck. All of these modifications allow you to pump out the Porta Potty tank at the waste pump station at your local marina.
NOTE: FOR DETAILS ON THIS MODIFICATION CONTACT boatnutmedia@gmail.com REFERANCE/ PORTA POTTY PUMP OUT MODIFICATION 

A Porta Potty works with a trap door system where by the waste simply falls into a holding tank on the bottom half of the unit. There is a small water tank on the top half of the toilet so you can pump water into the bowl with the waste, providing a cleaner flush. Porta Potty is an emergency head as far as I am concerned, the holding tank is very small and the system is notorious for odors if you try to use this as a fully operational head.

If you want to upgrade from the Porta Potty set up, you may or may not be able to do this. Any other marine head installation will require a waste holding tank complete with a two inch discharge (flush) hose from the marine head, a water pick up line from the bottom of the hull complete with through hull and a waste tank vent installed in the side of the hull. If your power boat is to small or designed without an area for a small holding tank you maybe out of luck. The other consideration is you must be able to run all the hoses and the through hull valve required to make the head system operational. If you are looking at a boat with only a Porta Potty on board and plan to use the boat in a fashion that would require a more conventional marine head then be sure to have the boat looked at for the possibility of installation before you buy.

A Porta Potty with or without a way to pump out at the dock quite often does not qualify as a marine head in the case of drinking on your boat be sure you know the laws in your region do not assume that as long as you have a porta potty you are legal.


Image result for marine porta potty


If your boat has a Manual Pump Head:


This will mean that your vessel has a waste holding tank (Black Water) and a through hull in the bottom of the boat for the head to pick up raw (fresh) water to flush the waste away. This style of head has a manual pump to remove the waste and to draw fresh water from the lake, river or ocean to flush. This pump maybe a handle that you move up and down or a upright manual pump that has a handle that you pull up and push down.
 
This is the most basic and popular complete marine head system. The manual pump head works well and is relatively bullet proof. Most of the designs and makes of heads are completely serviceable, and easy to maintain.  Manual flush heads are actually damaged or broken more often than not by the technician or boat owner by over tightening the hardware that holds the pump pieces together. These head pumps are an all plastic body with a ceramic bowl. They are designed to be disassembled for repair,  mistakes made when reassembling the plastic pump bodies will lead to cracking at the screws.
Thus creating leaks.
 
A Manual Flush Head works on a push/ pull system were every pump of the handle is either pulling the waste toward the discharge hose or pushing the waste toward the discharge hose. At the same time you are pulling lake water to the head through the bottom of the boat. Most manual pump heads have a switch located beside the pump handle allowing you the option of a dry flush meaning no lake water is added to the bowl, or a wet flush meaning you are flushing with lake water entering the bowl. This option allows you to flush fluid waste with out the addition of extra water reducing the volume of liquid filling the waste holding tank. This is a genuine concern if you have a small waste holding tank on board. The reason for the popularity of the manual flush head is they will always work, no power is required to operate. More advanced marine head systems require 12 volt power to flush the waste away. No power no flush!

Manual Flush Heads are the easiest marine heads to correct a plugged issue. You must remember that any marine head has a two inch discharge hose and relies on one method or another to push or pull waste from the head to the holding tank. For this reason you should not flush anything but human waste down any marine head. It is important to place a waste basket beside the bowl for paper products or any other waste that could normally be flushed away at home. If you post a sign or purchase a decal that shows what the head will not accept for discharge and educate your guests you will save yourself many head aches and service calls. As a matter of fact technicians will quite often charge a premium to work on a head system, due to the environmental factors that they face in opening up a waste system. Do not use drain cleaners or an auger to clean a plug, use a shop vacuum, complete with running water to flush the system. This way you will not damage components.


Image result for marine manual flush heads
 

If your boat has a Electric Head:


An Electric Head is a swap out for a manual pump head!  It will require the installation of a flush switch and a 12 volt circuit to be run to the head. However the head uses the same water pick up and the same discharge hoses. Remember there is no hole under the head for a waste pipe all waste leaves the head through the two inch discharge hose. All of the electrical and mechanical workings off the electric head are part of the toilet itself, at the back of the bowl near the bottom there is a 12volt electric motor that drives a double pump case. The case is divided into two parts the fresh water pump impellor which pumps the water from the lake to the bowl and a macerator with a stainless steel chopper blade to remove the waste. This type of head is extremely efficient at its job, it chops and pumps the waste away quickly.
 
When it is in action it looks a lot more like the operation of your home toilet than any other head. Of course you must remember that there is a large electric motor and flushing will be far from silent, so night flushes for those sleeping by the head wall can be annoying.

The electric head is a serviceable system, meaning the every once in awhile you will have to service the pump and have a new water pump impellor installed to keep the flushing water at the correct volume. The amount of time between service will depend on the amount the head is used. The worst thing you can do to an electric head is not use it the electric motor will begin to sieze and the water pump impellor can swell or lock up with some of the blades bent over. If the electric motor ever starts to trip the breaker due to lack of use or age you can purchase a new one and should! If you attempt to get a stuck motor going (which you can) it will not last long at all, you will experience problems with the breaker tripping when you flush. You must remember NO POWER NO FLUSH!

If you watch what you flush down the head, maintain and use the electric head regularly it can give you years of uninterrupted service. They really are reliable. If you use you boat for charters or just have a lot of guests this is the head to have. The electric head is very efficient at moving waste down the discharge hose, which may not seem like a big deal, however it is! Waste left in the discharge line for extended periods of time can do two things. One- It can dry out between uses and create narrowing of the hose diameter inside leading to plugs. Two- This is the more important, odor, the waste in the rubber line will eventually leach its odor through the hose material. Once this happens every time you close up the boat and leave for days a time when you return you will have that waste smell lingering in the air. The new white triple wrap waste is line is far and away better than the old black waste line for odor protection. The use of cheap discharge hose on any marine head is a bad mistake.
Image result for electric marine flush heads

 

 

If your boat has a Vacu Flush Head:


Honestly you have a bucket load of parts between the head and the tank to go wrong. Vacu Flush works with the same size discharge hose as any other marine head. Do not be deceived by that big trap door that opens in the bottom of the bowl. I have had boaters who think that the trap door opens and there is a huge pipe to swallow the waste, not so! The black area you looking at is the bottom of the bowl. When the Vacu Flush system is working right it is awesome, but there are a lot of working parts to make this head function.

First at the bowl, there is a seal on the trap door that must make contact with the bowl opening if this seal is damaged or dries out the system is compromised and the pump that creates the vacuum will keep running (TIP: Keep the trap door covered in a small amount of water this will keep the seal from drying out) Next there is the Vacu Flush pump which is what you will hear running when the head is flushed this pump housing is made up of several key parts. From time to time these parts will need to be replaced. There are at least four duck bill valves split- two on the intake side of the pump and two on the discharge side of the pump, these rubber valves age or get damaged and no longer allow the vacuum to build in the system. Then there is the pump itself the piston that the pump operates is plastic and can crack with time, load and items that are to hard to crush travelling thru the body. If the bellows that seals the piston tight (allowing vacuum to build up) crack the pump will continue to work, if you all of a sudden notice a strong odor of waste one of the first places to check is the pump bellows. As the pump continues to run with the broken bellows there will be raw waste pumped into the area that the pump is located in the bilge. Depending on the year of the Vacu Flush system there maybe a separate vacuum tank and pump location on the vessel. Older tanks are white tanks that resemble a torpedo. The newer systems have the pump and vacuum tank as one unit. On the tank you have a vacuum switch which determines the amount of vacuum created to complete a flush, the amount of vacuum is adjustable. This same switch  dictates when the pump is to start up or shut down when the desired vacuum in the system is reached. It is all these working parts that make this system a failure trap if misused or mis installed.
 
If you are buying a power boat with a Vacu Flush upgrade be sure to tell your surveyor that the system was installed post manufacturer. Quite often when the Vacu Flush is installed after market the runs to the pump are up hill or have to many turns for the Vacu Flush to be reliable. If the installer uses cheap discharge line the system may continually plug.

More so than any other marine head you must be sure that no one is flushing feminine products or hard objects through the Vacu Flush system, this will get very costly to repair. These products along with paper towel will damage the duck bill valves and the pump "no doubt". If your bowl continues to loose water then the seal at the flush door must be replaced. The foot pump flush switch is another area that must be watched. The Vacu Flush head works with the fresh water system of the vessel only. This valve that the foot switch is attached to is plastic, abusive use of the flush pedal will damage it. When this happens the floor of the head can continue to flood as long as the fresh water pump on the boat is left on or you have the vessel connected to active dockside water.

Of all the head systems this one is the one that will plug up the easiest due to the amount of flow restrictions on the way to the holding tank. This head will be as reliable as you treat it!

Image result for vacu flush flush heads
 
 
 
Image result for vacu flush flush heads
 
 


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Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
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Sunday, 24 July 2016

VIDEO CONTENT TRAILER BOATING / A must view for Trailer Boaters Pt2






 

TRAILER BOATING / A must view for Trailer Boaters Pt2


                                                  Video Addendum "to go with previous article"







To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.






Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
Connect with the Magazine web site 
 




Wednesday, 20 July 2016

Lost My Edge / Effects of a Damaged Prop and Skeg

 
 

 

Lost My Edge / Effects of a Damaged Prop and Skeg

Image result for boat prop pitch
 

 

 Props and Skeg that are damaged or out of tune.

 Most boaters believe that the reason for bad performance, issues with hole shot or top end flat lining of power must be related to the way the motor(s) is (are) running. There is some truth to this, if you have weak spark, fuel delivery (bad fuel) issue or the engine is failing to advance the timing then yes the boat will run like crap. However if the motors are running well and the boat is still a dog then you need to assess the prop(s) and the skeg.

Props will go out of pitch over time, it is a given the blades are trying to flex under load and they eventually loose their pitch. You should every couple of seasons take the props off and send them to a repair shop were they re-pitch (tune) the props for you. Should you all of a sudden notice a difference in the way the boat performs than you may have hit something or mowed through a chunk of wood (not even knowing it) This is not as uncommon as you may think. The prop is where all the work is done to move your boat through the water. You can have a perfectly tuned motor but if you cannot make the prop bite the water, it is all for not. A badly damaged prop will cause vibration through the boat and will damage bearings and seals at the prop shaft as that vibration is passed down the shaft.

 

 

What is happening to your boat when the blades are out of pitch.


Image result for boat prop pitch
 
When the prop is out of tune, the blades are trying to travel different distances through the water at the same time this will cause cavitation or aeration at the blades, this water can be so hot it will burn the paint off the prop. When this is happening the prop starts to slip, and the push of the prop is lost. An example of this would be at the top end of the throttle you push the throttle down and the engine just revs and there is no more push by the prop to match the increase in the RPM, or as you move up through the RPM range the speed of the boat does not move smoothly up with motor and eventually the speed catches up. This is all prop slip and if you look behind you in the wash you will notice excessive air or bubbles in the wash. The reaction is similar to driving with the drive trim to high.  Should you see that one or all blades of the prop have the paint worn of the faces of the blades (it will look like the prop was sand blasted). This is a sure sign of bad cavitation and the prop or the case has to be fixed or tuned. 
 
Image result for boat prop pitch
 
Cavitation can also be caused by the flow of water that the prop has to work in. The skeg at the bottom of the gear case can disrupt the water flow to the prop. If it is bent or damaged the water getting to the prop already contains air and the effect on the prop is cavitation. A damaged skeg will affect steering, create a pull to the right or the left, lack of low speed control, Bad pull to one side or the other (at low speed), slipping at high speed when cornering, large damage can also effect the flow of water to the water pick up used for engine cooling. As a matter of fact any damage to the lower gear case will be detrimental to the running of the boat and or the performance of the boat.
 
Image result for boat gear cases
 
Damage to the lower gear case , which includes the cavitation plate above the prop is not the way you want to operate your boat at all. Leaving damage not only effects the way the boat performs, but will lead to corrosion setting into the metal and in some cases were cracks have occurred contaminated gear oil, and additional gear case pieces falling off.


 

Aluminum props are continually flexing as you power up, and are the most susceptible to pitch variations, One blade or all blades maybe out of sinc with each other. If you have a chip or a bend in the blade or blades then you have completely defeated the props expected performance. These props are the easiest and cheapest to have repaired, If you have a damaged aluminum prop take it to your local prop repair facility and have them assess the damage and let you know if it can be fixed. You cannot just keep repairing props over and over there is a limit to how many large repairs can be done. Always keep a spare on board with the tools you need to change the prop. Never try to change the prop in water were you cannot reach the bottom easily, it is common to drop parts or the whole prop.
 
Image result for boat prop pitch
Stainless Props are less likely to flex under load which makes them a popular choice with boaters. do not assume that because the prop is painted black that it is aluminum. There are black painted stainless props. Stainless props have a draw back, if you are a new boater or operate your boat in a body of water that has a hard bottom such as rocks, beware. With an aluminum prop you can hit a hard object and knock a whole blade off and usually not damage the inner workings of the gear case. With stainless steel the blades are so durable that damage to the inner workings of the gear case is inevitable. The way to try and prevent this is with a break away hub inside the prop between the prop and the shaft so at the moment of impact the plastic hub will break into pieces and save the inner workings of the gear case. If  a stainless prop is actually wedged up against something I have seen the coupler on the engine sheer before anything else. This is were the drive shaft from the out drive couples to the engine the repair in this case requires pulling the drive and the motor out of the boat.
 
Stainless Props also need attention it is a good idea to have the stainless props checked and tuned by a prop shop if you require the shop can also custom tune these props giving you a pitch to better suite your needs let the repair shop know what you are trying to achieve in performance and they can adjust the pitch by a half a pitch up or down. This really works and the difference  in performance and fuel burn can be out standing. Stainless props can also be repaired if you do manage to bend or chip a blade, expect to spend more money repairing a stainless prop.
 
 Image result for boat prop pitch


Gear Case damage can in 90 % of the cases be repaired by the same repair shop that handles your prop repairs. Never assume that the case can be repaired however this is due to the fact that the heat from the repair can change the shape of or do damage to the inner workings of the gear case. Gear Case repairs must be done by someone with gear case experience! If the leading edge of the skeg has small chips you can file the edge to a clean as new finish with out removing the gear case from the boat. If you have a damaged gear case and plan to remove the case yourself and have it repaired there are a few TIPS for you.
  • Contact the repair shop and ask if they require the gear oil drained out before they fix the gear case
  • Ask for an estimate when they PU or when you drop the damaged gear case off
  • If they paint the repaired gear case ask the repair shop if they use zinc chromate primer, if the answer is no tell them you will paint the repair yourself
  • Always use the correct zinc primer on gear case repairs before you top coat
  • Do not paint with cheap spray paint buy quality paint for repairs.
  • Always pressure check the drive before refilling with gear oil to be sure that the heat from the repair has not damaged a seal.
  • Always test drive the repaired gear case before you head out on your first big trip.
By keeping the props and gear cases on your boat in good working order you will get the best performance they can give you. You cannot expect the same performance out of a three year old prop as you would a new one with out maintenance. Of all the money we spend on or boats to me the prop is the most overlooked for maintenance and the prop to your annual list of things to do and you will be paid back in fuel burn and in performance when your out on the water. Basic prop maintenance is not expensive and if you are a seasonal boater what better time to send the prop in to be tuned then when the boat is laid up for the winter!








 



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Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
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Thursday, 3 March 2016

NMMA to sell or shut down California shows, closes NMMA West offices



 

NMMA to sell or shut down California shows, closes NMMA West offices

 
Image result for LA BOAT SHOW
 Image result for sandiego boat SHOW
 


The US trade association has sold the Los Angeles Boat Show and San Diego International Boat Show to Duncan McIntosh Company
 

NMMA makes strategic changes to its boat show roster           

NMMA, as part of strategic changes to its boat show roster, has reached an agreement to transfer ownership of the Los Angeles Boat Show and San Diego International Boat Show to Duncan McIntosh Company, Inc., effective immediately.

The 2016 Los Angeles Boat Show completed a successful four-day run on February 28 with an eleven percent increase in attendance, helping kick off the transfer on a positive note. As for the 2016 San Diego International Boat Show, set to run June 16-19 at the Sheraton Hotel & Marina on Harbor Island, it is business as usual and all existing agreements for 2016 will be honored by Duncan McIntosh Company. For exhibitors who have already contracted for space, NMMA has assigned space contracts and deposits to Duncan McIntosh Company. All exhibitor questions related to the Los Angeles and San Diego shows should be directed to Janette Hood at the Duncan McIntosh Company.

Additionally, following the cancellation of the San Francisco Boat Show in January due to weather and given challenges in finding a suitable long-term home for the show in Northern California, NMMA will not be producing a San Francisco show in 2017. NMMA President Thom Dammrich notes, “It was not an easy decision to make but after listening to our exhibitors and exploring our options for alternative host sites, it became clear we would not be able to produce the kind of event our attendees and exhibitors have come to expect from NMMA. We thank our exhibitors for their support as we looked to use this show as a way to reinvigorate the Northern California market and hope our exhibitors understand our reasons behind this difficult decision.”

With these changes come changes at NMMA. Without these shows on its roster, the NMMA West offices will be closing later this Spring. In a letter to exhibitors, Dammrich noted, “We are sad to say goodbye to Dave Geoffroy and his talented team of professionals and thank them for their hard work and dedication in working with us to grow recreational boating in California. Dave has been a fixture in the Southern California boating industry for forty-five years and has served the industry as an association leader for eighteen years. We hope you will join us in wishing them well in their future endeavors.”

While the NMMA West offices are closing and shows are transitioning, NMMA will continue serving the needs of the marine industry on the West Coast. David Dickerson and NMMA’s state government relations team will remain active in all California legislative and regulatory efforts. What's more, John McKnight's work with CARB and Nicole Vasilaros' work in ensuring California is part of our federal government relations efforts will continue, uninterrupted. Additionally, the NMMA teams supporting statistics, certification, marketing and PR in California are moving full speed ahead. California remains a key region that's integral to the success of the entire U.S. boating industry and a priority for NMMA.
 
 
 



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