What you need to know about bottom paint

 

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

ANTI FOUL IS WEARING ME THIN   What do you need to know about bottom paint



 Anti Foul/ Bottom Paint: One of the products we apply to our power boats that we know will just wear off and we will have to recoat it again and again. So what does bottom paint do, what makes it work and how long should it last? These are all questions I have heard over the years. Bottom paint is used for the reason it was developed (preventing growth by wearing a thin layer off every time you run the boat, it contains a high concentration of copper to inhibit growth) it is also used to hide a world of sins (easy application to hide patch work and repairs). Boats which are to big to trailer are expected to be bottom painted due to the fact that they are in the water at all times, except for a winter season, and out for repair work. 

When do you need to bottom paint a boat?. Well the first thing that must be considered is the amount of time you will be in the water. Next is the water that you intend to keep your boat in. A boat should only be painted if it is going to live in the water full time.

 If you bottom paint a boat or buy a boat that is bottom painted and you are going to keep the boat on a trailer, the paint is a waste of time and money. As a matter of fact you will end up recoating just to keep the boat looking good, not for reduced growth. Which is what bottom paint is designed to do. If you allow the bottom paint to dry out which only takes a couple of months it is no longer effective and will start to come off in pieces. If you are shopping for a boat and it lives on a trailer and already has bottom paint there could be another reason for the bottom paint to be on the hull. Bottom damage is expensive to repair and repair technicians will offer a bottom paint finish to save money and time rather than trying to repair the hull to a factory finish with gel coat. So be care full with bottom painted hulls on trailer boats do your best to get the history don't rely on a survey. You will notice that trailer boats with bottom paint usually have paint all over the bunks, rollers and trailer. This is a sign that the owner has been repainting the boat on the trailer, so there is likely next to no paint under the bunks. Unless you are in heavy growth water such as salt or unusual fresh water conditions you really need to calculate the cost of a bottom paint program over the time you own the boat versus cleaning the bottom of the boat regularly. The amount of growth without paint is directly related to the hours of operation a boat that sees a lot of hours will see a small amount of bottom growth if any at all.

I have bottom painted boats as small as 15 foot due to the fact that the boat was being kept in the salt water all year round. For boats that are in the water all the season and do not see many running hours bottom paint will save you the growth problem that will occur from lack of movement, even in fresh water. Bottom paint will not stop growth, it simply allows the growth to come off under normal boat operation. This only works if you use the boat regularly if it sits all season and you take the boat for a late season run you will find when you haul the boat that you will still have a lot of growth on the bottom of the hull.

BOTTOM PAINT TIPS

• Do not try to sand and remove old bottom paint it may contain arsenic this would be pre 1990
• Do not roll coats of anti foul just because of discoloration you will build up massive thickness that is horrible to try to make right
• Bottom paint does not have to be applied in super thick coats to work
• Bottom paint will rob the boat of speed
• Select the right product for the job, there are anti fouls for hulls, running gear and transducers do not paint every thing with one paint.
• Do not paint running gear unless you purchase the correct primer and paint
• They make bottom paint with tin instead of copper content for aluminum boats and drives.
• Do not paint the copper based anti foul up to the drives or tabs leave a gap the copper bottom paint and the metals in the drive and other components will cause electrolysis (corrosion) on the transom plates and drives.
• Do not paint over anodes this makes them useless.
• If you are repainting a hull or are starting new it is a good idea to have the first coat a different color than the top coat, first coat blue the rest black this way as the bottom paint wears you can see when and where you need to recoat.
• Do not feel that you need to repaint the whole hull you can touch up for many seasons before recoating the whole hull.
• It is a rare occasion in fresh water to need to paint the running gear.
• Be sure your bottom paint line allows for two inches (higher) at the water line this will prevent those nasty water line stains
• If you have to raise the bottom paint line and you have not added any accessories to the boat , there is a reason. Boats will pick up weight over the years this is natural, however a sudden change is a sign that you are probably holding trapped water some were. If you use a travel lift to haul out get the weight of the boat every year at haul out and launch, keep track of these numbers and you will know if the boat is gaining weight.
•  If you add accessories such as swim platforms, generators, radar arches you will have to adjust the bottom paint line.
• Do not paint to a list to the port or starboard correct the load in the boat first, get ride of the list.
• Try not to paint to far above the water line it looks okay for a week or so then you will see the paint above the line start to get green as the copper in the paint ages.

Several attempts have been made to create a anti foul that will last the life of the boat without recoating, as well as a coating that can be applied in the mold at the time of construction. The life time anti foul was very close to working but it is super expensive and messy to apply. I did a proto type of this product once and wasn't a fan of the overall cost versus end product. You would have to own the boat over 15 years and need to re anti foul every year to make the system worth while. (The life time system does eliminate the need for a barrier coat).

If you use a lift or keep your boat in a high and dry facility you can remove bottom paint. It is a back breaking job, dealers have done this to 320 and 340 boats that have been sold new and will not live in the water full time. I have seen many products sold over the years that promise to make the hull so slippery that growth will not stick, I have never seen one that works that well. Generally due to the fact that the boats that receive these coating still do not see the amount of running time to make these coatings really effective.

Bottom Paint is the only real sensible option to prevent growth that is available to boaters. Bottom paint comes in many different brands and speeds. The speed terminology refers to the hull speed. Soft paints that sloff off at low speed will not work well on power boats and visa versa. Be sure you explain to your supplier the boat that the bottom coat will be applied to and the hull speed you run most of your time at. This way you get the best paint and value for your money. Bottom paint is available in blue, green, red and black (and other crazy colors). I recommend you pick any color you want as long as its black. It works the best, most colors are soft and only look good twice a year when you put it on new and after the boat is pressure washed at the end of the year. If you own a power boat and when the hull is pressure washed you see the bottom paint running all over the ground the paint is probably to soft and wearing of the hull to fast.

 Hull Preparation:

•  Never had bottom paint- The standard hull preparation for bottom paint is to sand the gel coat surface remove all the shine, remove the dust and apply at least two coats of your favorite brand of paint
• Never had bottom paint- The option I choose is the sand less primer system, you must buy the same brand paint as the sand less primer, I like this option better because you are not cutting through the resin rich gel surface.
• Recoating- If you are sticking with the same paint, Start by giving the hull from the water line down a really complete pressure wash try to remove what ever will come off (time spent here will save time later), then you sand down the edges of chips and flaked areas, mask off your line and items not to be painted. Start your re coating by covering the bare areas first and then coat the whole hull. This will keep the material build up fairly even over the hull.
• Annual clean up- This usually entails a few touch ups and at the very most a belly band, this is strip re coated around the water line a foot or so wide that's it. all you need here is a clean dry surface that's it.
• To find your water line you may need to float the boat if you are not full of water and fuel don't worry just add an inch. I did this on all new bottom paint jobs until I had a book with the various models to refer to, and even then one or two would throw a curve ball and be different.

A SPRING START UP TIP FOR YOU:
 
DO NOT RE COAT WITH NEW BOTTOM PAINT BEFORE YOU POLISH  THE HULL

Like any other service or maintenance job we do to our boats buying the right materials and working in the right conditions will pay off . The finished job will last longer and provide better value for the money spent. Be sure to inform your supplier of your needs and ask them the expected life of the bottom paint you are purchasing, some bottom paints come with a limited warranty.

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided. 

Alph Drive Service Information

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

ALPHA DRIVE SERVICE INFORMATION, What do I need to know about my Alpha Drive

What is an Alpha Drive and how do I know this is what I have on my boat. Well first of all Alpha Drives are a Mercruiser product which are normally coupled with a four cylinder, V6  or a small block V8 motor. However in the eighties there were combinations with big bock V8 motors on performance boats. The Alpha Drive is the smaller drive which is easy to understand when next to a Bravo Drive. Alpha Drives are not available with dual prop. The prop diameter on the Alpha Drive is 14 to 15.5 inches. Alpha Drives are available in two models there is generation 1 drive and generation 2 drive (your drive serial number will be the sure fire way to confirm what you have). I could write a small book on the engineering differences, however we will stick to the required basics, which gen 1 and gen 2 are the same.

Transom Housing

The first things that you need to know are:
 

ALPHA DRIVE

1- Alpha Drives have the raw water pump to cool the motor mounted in the drive between the upper and lower gear cases.( Right in the middle of the drive cases).

 2- You must shift the boat into forward to be able to remove and install an Alpha Drive. This is because the shift linkage faces forward and aft only in forward gear.( shift dog). The shift dog is brass and if you are not in forward and pry on the drive it can end up bent.

3- Remove the prop first, this will prevent the possibility of turning the prop shaft which turns the drive shaft. If you do not turn the upper or main drive shafts the drive will slide right back into place (as the splines on the drive shaft have to line up with the splines in the engine coupler).

4- You need to use Mercruiser high performance gear lube in your Alpha Drive, not using Mercruiser fluids can shorten the life of and damage the drive. At the same time pick up some 24C lube for the prop shaft, shaft end lubrication and water pump lubrication.

5- All drives are protected by anodes to help prevent corrosion be sure you have replaced any that are in bad shape, be sure you order the correct anode package for your drive. The serial number and the water that you boat in ( fresh or salt) will determine the correct part numbers. Fresh water and Salt water require different corrosion protection.

6- Every year it is a good idea to change the water pump impellor, unless you have picked up sand or some contamination then you may have to replace the entire water pump housing. Always have a spare impellor on board and always match the impellor or water pump kit to the serial number of the drive.

7- To clean the drive before you start any work pick up some hull cleaner or a small jug of muriatic acid. You can spray the acid on with a small pump sprayer and rinse off within a couple of minutes (do not leave the acid or hull cleaner to dry). You must wear eye and breathing protection when using acid of any kind

8- Never sand the whole drive down and repaint just blow in the areas that need touching up and always use zinc chromate primer where needed first. As so as you sand the factory finish you promote corrosion.

9- Get your self a clean container for all the nuts and hardware do not loose any pieces

I recommend that you pull the drive at least annually

Before you remove the drive drain the gear oil out of the drive. You do this by placing and oil catch tray under the drive trimming the drive down until the drive is horizontal. Shift the drive into forward with the motor off. You will find two screws on the drive one down on the bullet and one near the top of the upper case, remove the bottom drain screw and then the top vent screw (if you have an internal reservoir on the motor this will drain down also. The longer you let the drive sit draining the better don't rush it. You will be looking at the gear lube as it drains out, if it is milky at all or is anything other than the color of the new high performance gear lube you have to refill it you will want to get a repair shop to check a sample of the drained gear lube and most probably the drive. ( be sure you hang onto the drain screws each one has a ring seal on it that must be replaced every time you remove the drain screw). There is the possibility that this is where the contamination is coming from and if it is this is a cheap fix.

Once the gear oil is drained you can begin to remove the drive, before you remove the drive be sure you have a drive install gasket kit from your local supplier. Make sure that you give them you drive serial number so they can get you the right kit. it is a good idea to order an extra kit they are not expensive and you will probably rip a gasket on your first attempt at putting the drive back on.

To inspect the bellows (the rubber boots which protect and join the outside transom shield to the drive housing). These boots wear over time, can be damaged by animals (chewed), and if water gets in the shift cable or U joint bellows  it will freeze and split in the cold. If you do see water it is time to change the bellows.

If you do launch your boat and have a leaking bellows trim the drive all the way down to reduce the amount of water you are taking on.

 At the same time you can check the condition of:

The Gimbal bearing. This is the large bearing in the middle of the drive shaft bellows that the drive shaft slides through to connect with the coupler at the back of the motor. You can reach in and roll the bearing with your fingers it should roll smooth and easy , and should not show signs of corrosion. if it doesn't roll right or is rusty you will want to change the bearing. There are tell tail signs that this bearing is failing. !

1- You will here a growl sound at low speed coming from the transom area.

 2- A bad bearing can cause a thumping sound from the same area, these sounds will start as soon as you start the boat as this bearing is always turning.

 U JOINTS. The U joints are the same as you see on the drive shaft of your car. The u joints allow the drive to trim up and down. U joints also allow the drive to run while trimmed in different positions. You are looking for really loose u joints (clunky, sloppy), damaged u joints or corroded u joints. If the bellows has had water in side than the u joints have been constantly wet and they will rust. If you run the boat in gear with the drive trimmed above the upper trim limit you will break off pieces of the u joint and these pieces will create holes in the u joint bellows. It is possible to explode the u joint connection if you ignore this area of the drive train.  You can tell the u joints are gone when you are driving the boat and when you steer hard over you here a clacking sound. If you unsure of the condition of these parts get a professionals opinion.

If you are going to split the drive in two to replace and service the water pump impellor here are a couple of tips:

1-There is an large anode on the cavitation plate some times it is flat and other times it has a small skeg on it. If you have the skeg style note the location it is mounted in as the skeg anode can be set up to take some of the steering drift out of the boat.

2- When the upper and lower gear case are apart you will see a small o ring at the gear oil passage that passes between the upper and lower gear case components, be sure the new o ring (orange in color) is in the correct location before you bolt the two pieces back together. This is critical.

3- If the skeg on the bottom of the case is bent or damaged now is the time to get it fixed. This damage will cause cavitation at the prop and affect performance of the drive.

4- Be sure when you change the water pump impellor you apply lots of 24C on the impellor and the housing as the grease will be the only lubrication the impellor has until it picks up water.

5- Be very care full not to over tighten any nuts or bolts pay attention to manufacturers specs.

6- When lubricating the lower drive shaft or the upper drive shaft use just a thin coat of grease on the splins only and stop short of the end of shaft . Too much grease can create a situation were you hydrolic the shaft and the pieces will not go all the way back together

What is the worst thing that can happen if you do not service the bellows and drive?

This boat sunk over a broken bellows!

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided. 

HOW TO WINTERIZE A BOAT

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

 

TAKE THE COURSE AT: MARINE SAFETY SCHOOL, TORONTO @ http://boatnuteducation.freeblog.site/

 



HOW TO WINTERIZE MY BOAT?

  This is a difficult topic to address in this format, the reason for this is that every boat is different and the systems along with the way they are rigged can be very different. Watching a video or getting information on a web site does not mean that the boat has been properly protected. So I will go over each main system on the boat that can potentially freeze and discuss the problems you could run into. What you need is a list and a strategy that is specific to your boat.

BOAT SPECIFIC(will include) MAKE, MODEL ,YEAR, MOTOR (serial number) DRIVE (information), LIST of SYSTEMS

INBOARD & INBOARD OUTBOARD

 

There are two different types of cooling systems 1 Closed cooling and 2 Raw water cooling.

What does this mean? Closed cooling refers to a motor that has a heat exchanger and antifreeze running through the block. This type of cooling takes very little raw water to run the system,  you need to protect the raw water side and be aware of the condition of the coolant in the closed system side.
 Two different systems to cool the motor.
1- Closed cooling requires you to check the condition of the antifreeze in the heat exchanger, and not just a visual check but a check of the freeze point or temperature which the antifreeze will no longer be effective. There is a tool for this and if you fail to check this the motor can and will still freeze.
2- The raw water side of the system is where the lake water is pumped through the heat exchanger and cools the anti freeze. This is the side that must be drained and have antifreeze pumped through it until it comes out the exhaust. You will notice that I said you must drain the system first. This goes for all the water systems on the boat if you just pump antifreeze through the system how do you know you have the level of protection you expect, you don't, the water in the system will mix with your antifreeze and lower the temp with which it will freeze or possibly leave pockets of water in areas of the block or the accessories mounted to the block. These areas will freeze!
3- You will have to locate the drain on the heat exchanger to allow the fresh water to drain. While you are draining the fresh water from the heat exchanger it is a good time to remove and check the condition of the pencil anode. This anode protects the heat exchanger from corrosion.
4- On the older heat exchangers you can remove one of the end caps to allow the fresh water to drain. If you remove the end cap it is important to replace the end cap and the gasket in the right direction. Do not overtighten the end cap when you replace it. Be sure you inspect the end cap for leaks in the spring when you start the engine.

Raw water cooling is where motor cooling is done by pumping lake water alone, flowing through the block and all attached accessories. The same strategy applies you must drain the block, manifolds, coolers and any other raw water components of water first. If you have a Mercruiser with the central water sump drain be sure you remove the drain plug. Once you have drained all the fresh water and replaced the drain plugs, go ahead and pump antifreeze through the block until it comes out the exhaust.

Here are the things you need to watch for

• When draining the block and the manifolds are you getting flow out of each drain? You should. If you are not getting a flow of water out of the drain there are two possibilities of a problem. 1- You have a build up of sand in the area where the drain is, and this sand will freeze and split the block or the manifold  2- You have a build up of corrosion in the port you are trying to drain. You can test these possibilities by finding a short piece of wire or a wire tie with you. Poke it in the drain and see what comes out. The debris that comes out will tell you what is going on, once cleared of debris you should start to see the area drain down.
• Do you have mufflers in your boat? The mufflers also hold water and have a drain screw at the bottom to let the water out before you add antifreeze to the motor.
• Be sure you have pumped enough anti freeze through the system, do not be stingy or assume that the exhaust tells you when the system is full there could be long runs to coolers or a hot water heater. When the anti freeze is showing at the exhaust be sure to rev the motor up two or three times and back to idle to verify that you have all the systems full.
• You should have a nice constant flow of antifreeze out the exhaust if it is week or taking forever to flow then you have a bad water pump. Just because you had flow of water through the exhaust while your boat was in the lake doesn't mean the pump is strong enough to pump the antifreeze on land.
• Your boat may also rely on raw water to lubricate the stuffing box were the shaft goes through the hull you must see antifreeze  flowing out here as well
• Water pick up lines from the lake to the raw water pump must also be protected this may include basket strainers, be sure you drain the strainers and protect them as well. All basket strainers have a drain on or near the bottom, this is also a good time to use your shop vac and clean them out of debris. As long as the thru hull is open the hose from the thru hull to the basket will gravity drain.
• Fuel filters, if you have had a problem with water in the gas this year change the fuel filters or drain the water separator bowl. Fuel filters and bowls will freeze and crack.

Information from Discover Boating

You should run the engine(s) to warm it up and change the oil while it is warm. This tends to allow impurities to be drained away with the oil. You should also change the oil filter(s). Flush the engine(s) with fresh water. You should circulate antifreeze through the manifold by using a pickup hose from the waterpump to a bucket of antifreeze. Start the engine and allow the antifreeze to circulate until water starts to exit the exhaust. This process will vary slightly depending on whether you have a "Raw Water" cooling system or an "Enclosed Fresh Water" cooling system. While you're in the engine room you should also change the fluid in your transmission. Remove spark plugs and use "fogging oil" to spray into each cylinder. Wipe down the engine with a shop towel sprayed with a little fogging oil or WD-40.

 

Reply from Boat Nut

 

If you are planning a fluid change it is better to do this before you haul the boat or put your boat on a trailer. This will assure that you can run the boat engine long enough to obtain a temperature that will allow you to remove the fluids. Cold oil is like dealing with molasses and is hard to remove. Never assume that you can get enough water to the boat on land to run it long enough to get the engine warm enough to flow. A big block engine can suck a garden hose flat in a matter of seconds and create an overheat situation, damaging the water pump and much more. You must also have the correct muffs to run your boat or the water pump will draw air when you are on water or antifreeze. If you have the means grab a sample of the antifreeze after you feel that you are protected and use a Anti freeze tester to see the freeze point. Giving the block a spray with WD 40 is always a good idea. 

You should thoroughly inspect the stern drive and remove any plant life or barnacles from the lower unit. Drain the gear case and check for excessive moisture in the oil. This could indicate leaking seals and should be repaired. Clean the lower unit with soap and water. If your stern drive has a rubber boot, check it for cracks or pinholes. Grease all fittings and check fluid levels in hydraulic steering or lift pumps. Check with your owner's manual for additional recommendations by the manufacturer.
 
Alpha Service Information from Boat Nut Magazine
http://boatnutmedia.blogspot.ca/2015/11/alpha-drive-service-information-what-do.html
 
Bravo Drive and Volvo Duo Prop
http://boatnutmedia.blogspot.ca/2015/03/basic-bravo-three-and-volvo-duo-prop.html
 
If you have an OMC drive it is important that you know to drain the shift cavity as this area holds water and can freeze

All of the above will also apply to your generator if you have one on board.

There is question as to whether you leave the antifreeze in the blocks and systems or to drain the system after you add the antifreeze. Some people say the antifreeze protects the inside of the water passages from corroding over the winter, but because we have had a few crazy winters with rapid  temp fluctuations I drain the systems after I run the antifreeze through the systems, this is because I am in an area where we use minus 50 antifreeze but could see colder temperatures. This also means that in the spring I am not starting the boat in the water and polluting the lake with coolant.

In the case of an Inboard Out board Drive it is always a good idea to pull and inspect the drive. The biggest reason for this is the bellows will in all probability have some water in them. In the spring you will see many issues with bellows cracks and this is because the water in the bellows has frozen and expanded. Now the boat is taking on water and you have a problem. If you have a OMC you must loosen the drive and drain the shift cavity this area holds water and will freeze.

OUTBOARD

Information from Discover Boating -Outboard Motor

Flush engine with fresh water using flush muffs or similar device attached to the raw water pickup. Let all water drain from the engine. Wash engine down with soap and water and rinse thoroughly. Disconnect fuel hose and run engine until it stops. It is important to follow a step by step process to make sure that all fuel is drained from the carburetor to prevent build-up of deposits from evaporated fuel. Use fogging oil in the cylinders to lubricate the cylinder walls and pistons. Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft and threads. Change the gear oil in the lower unit. Lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a good wax.

 

Boat Nut Response

All new four stroke motors must be winterized as there are areas such as thermostat housings and other areas which do not self drain when the motor is tilted in the vertical potion. If you wish to protect the engine from fuel issues in the spring you can run the motor on a light mix of two stroke mix or you can purchase man made fuel to run the motor on which last more than a year.

 

No matter what you are winterizing Inboard Out board or Outboard always pull the props clean the shaft check for fishing line at the back of the prop around the shaft or thrust washer. Re grease the shaft with prop shaft grease and reinstall the prop, do not over apply the grease or the thrust washer will not push all the way back on the shaft. Treat the lower unit on an outboard the same as an Inboard Outboard.

 

Link

http://boatnutmedia.blogspot.ca/2015/11/alpha-drive-service-information-what-do.html

 

 

 BATTERIES

 If the batteries are not at a full charge or have been serviced by adding distilled water they can freeze, it is best to store the batteries in a dry warm location and to give them a trickle charge every once in a while to keep them fresh and ready to go in the spring

AIR CONDITIONING

Your Air Conditioning relies on lake water pumped through a heat exchanger of sorts. This is why  we need to drain and protect this system as well. Because the water pick up point is the lowest point this is the best way to drain the AC. If you have a basket strainer then use this as your drain point and take the time to clean the strainer out. Gravity will allow the water to feed back down and drain almost all of the water out of the AC unit, and you can use the basket strainer as the feed point to pump antifreeze back through the AC until it comes out of the thru hull on the side of the boat. So what can go wrong?

• AC systems from the factory have a magnetic drive pump. This means the impellor can run free when the system is not powered, however they are expensive and many pumps have been replaced with traditional impellor pumps. If you have a nonmagnetic pump you will not be able to gravity drain the system as the impellor will not free wheel backwards. This will mean disconnecting the hose at the outlet side of the pump and reconnecting after you drain the system.
• It is not unusual for the impellor to become slimy and not pick up the antifreeze and pump it through the system, you may need to force pump antifreeze through the system.
• If it is a split system where you have more than one AC unit you need to be sure that both units are protected equally this may mean blocking a thru hull until antifreeze shows at both the thru hull drains on your boat. Check the antifreeze by catching some and inspecting some of it just to be sure it is not watered down.
• The same rules apply here, you can drain away the antifreeze when you are done if you choose to. One note the antifreeze is very slippery and can affect the spring start up ability of the AC pump to prime itself, you may need to pull the magnetic impellor and clean the pieces to prevent the impellor from simply not turning.

SUMP PUMP, BILGE PUMPS, ACCESSORY PUMPS

 

Information from Discover Boating- Bilge

 

Make sure the bilges are clean and dry. Use soap, hot water and a stiff brush to clean up any oil spills. Once the bilges are clean, spray with a moisture displacing lubricant and add a little antifreeze to prevent any water from freezing.

 

Response from Boat Nut Magazine

With new boats and different types of boats there are many pumps and systems that will require your attention. In the case of Fishing boats and Wake Board boats there are a variety of pumps that cannot be over looked these include ballast pumps and tanks, live wells and bait wells. For cruisers and smaller boats there are bilge pumps, shower sump pumps and wash down pumps. Each one of these systems must be drained and protected with antifreeze. This is where boat specific information is required as you may not know where to access or how to access these pumps. These systems can be expensive to repair and can cause a boat to sink if they are not properly protected.

Leaving water in the bilge can cause thru hull blocks to split and create leaks at any hardware that goes through the boats hull. Always be sure the areas below the floor are dry and clean if you have any concerns take any extra anti freeze you have and pour it directly into the bilge after you clean and dry these areas. If you read the blog on Shrink Wrap you will have picked up on the tip to use a dehumidifier this will draw the moisture out from any where below the floors and get the water and moisture off the boat so that any damage by freezing water in areas you cannot see are reduced.

FRESH WATER SYSTEM

 

Information from Discover Boating - Water System

 

Completely drain the fresh water tank and hot water heater. Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connect them together. Pump a non-toxic antifreeze into the system and turn on all the faucets including the shower and any wash-down areas until you see the antifreeze coming out. Also put non-toxic antifreeze in the water heater.

 

 Reply from Boat Nut Magazine

 

The fresh water system is the hot and cold water that you have on your boat, this maybe as simple as a tank, pump and one sink. It can also be complex with hot and cold manifolds complete with a dockside systems, The following is a list of what could be included.

1. Hot Water Tank. You do not want to fill your hot water heater with antifreeze, you need to by pass the tank by tying the hot and cold lines from the tank together to create a closed loop and drain the water heater down of water using the drain provided on the tank.

1. Ice Maker. The Ice Maker uses water from the cold side on the boat to make ice and must be drained and protected as any other water accessory on the boat. There are different types of ice makers but they all require a small cold water line to work. You do not need to pump antifreeze all the way thru the icemaker when you disconnect the small water line to the unit it will drain . You just want antifreeze to the unit itself.

1. Head. If you have a head which relies on potable water to flush, such as a vacuflush system then you need to be sure that the water to the head is pumped out and that antifreeze is pumped to the head. in the case of a vacuflush head if you push up on the flush foot valve you can pump the water out with the fresh water pump on and while pumping antifreeze do the same action and you will see the antifreeze flow into the bowl. Traditional flush heads and electric flush heads pick up water from the lake to flush, but beware this is not always the case. You must know where the head is getting water from to protect it properly. This goes for each head on the boat. I have seen cases where heads have been changed and in doing so have changed the water supply as well. Of course you must flush a gallon or so directly down the head to protect the lines and accessories between the head and the holding tank. Be sure you have pumped out your holding tank before touching the head system, once pumped if you have an odor in the boat add some cleaner to the holding tank and let it work over the winter.

Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility. While pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use Vanish crystals or whatever your owner's manual recommends that will not harm your system and let sit for a few minutes. Again add fresh water and pump out again. Add antifreeze and pump through hoses, holding tank, y-valve, macerator and discharge hose. Again, check your owners manual to make sure that an alcohol-based antifreeze won't damage your system.

1. Hot and Cold water systems on older boats are straight forward. The tank feeds a pump and the pump feeds the system. However new boats have distribution manifolds and in many cases more than one, each manifold has a drain and must be drained before you add antifreeze as these distribution points will not fill with antifreeze to prevent freezing. There will be hot water manifolds and cold water manifolds. This again is boat specific stuff and you must know where they are located to be sure you do not have a leak in the spring.
2. Washer/Dryer. The washer/dryer units in larger boats are also tied to the cold water lines and you must understand the manufacturers instructions on how to correctly protect the unit from freezing.
3. Dock Side Water hook up is a separate cold line which tees in on the pressure side of the water pump and has no connection to the water holding tank on board the boat, and for this reason it is a dead end from the pump and must be drained out and protected.

When you start to protect the fresh water system you must first pump the water holding tank and the system out of water.  DO NOT PUT THE ANTIFREEZE IN THE WATER HOLDING TANK!!

• Open the drain valve on the hot water heater
• Open all the taps on the boat hot and cold, this includes the transom shower and allow the pump to run until all water is out of tank and taps are spitting water.
• Disconnect the dockside fitting and let the pump push any water out of line
• Hold up on the flush valve on your vacuflush head until you have no water
• Disconnect the water line at the icemaker
• By pass the hot water heater

Once all the water is gone disconnect the water line feeding the fresh water pump and attach the line you intend to feed the antifreeze thru. Once you are ready to pump antifreeze, close all the taps and get ready for antifreeze flow at the open lines such as dockside water and icemaker. These lines will fill quick. Turn on the pump and watch to be sure the system has picked up the antifreeze, once the dockside line and ice maker lines are full turn off the pump, reconnect these lines and get ready to do each tap in the boat individually (don't forget the showers) start with the furthest tap from the pump and work your way thru the boat until all the lines are running with antifreeze.

It is always a good idea to pour some antifreeze down any deck drains!

WINTERIZE USING COMPRESSED AIR

The other option is no anti freeze and using compressed air this works very well. Create a line which connects your compressor to the dockside water hook up. in this case you do not need to bypass the water heater. You leave all taps open and simply push air thru the system until all the water vapor is gone this way the next year you simply fill the system and go. The trick here is not to over pressurize the water system with too much air. I have met people who use air to blow the water out of virtually all there systems and use little to no antifreeze at all. This takes less time and effort but does require the experience of knowing what to look for. Otherwise you will not know all the water is pushed out of the systems.

IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO HAVE A BOAT SPECIFIC PROGRAM PLEASE CONTACT US BY EMAIL  boatnutmedia@gmail.com

 

FUEL SYSTEM

Information from Discover Boating

Fill your fuel tank(s) to avoid a build up of condensation over the winter months. Add a fuel stabilizer by following the instructions on the product. Change the fuel filter(s) and water separator(s).

 

Response from Boat Nut Magazine

There is a great deal of disagreement on filling fuel tanks or leaving them with some fuel. Here is why if you have been filling with fuel that contains ethanol, which most of us are now, the ethanol will actually create a water in fuel condition when left to settle unburnt. So some say the more fuel you leave in the tank the more contamination you are introducing. Others are still on the side of filling the tanks up. Most additives we use to stabilize fuel only last three months or so. I believe less fuel is better as fuel life is so short that even with stabilizer you can top the tanks in the spring change the filters and run the bad or old fuel off in a mix.

 

The Boat

Information from Discover Boating

Once you have taken care of the system you should remove any valuables, electronics, lines, PFDs, fire extinguishers, flares, fenders, etc. Over the winter these items can be cleaned, checked and replaced as necessary. Open all drawers and lockers and clean thoroughly. Turn cushions up on edge so that air is able to circulate around them or, better yet, bring them home to a climate controlled area. Open and clean the refrigerator and freezer. To keep your boat dry and mildew-free you might want to install a dehumidifier or use some of the commercially available odor and moisture absorber products such as "No Damp," "Damp Away" or "Sportsman's Mate."

 

Response from Boat Nut Magazine

 

 We agree with Discover Boating! You must however take care of the canvas, never leave the canvas on under the plastic cover. The corners of the canvas get worn down premature and mold and mildew set into the material. Once this mold is in the canvas it keeps coming back. Always remove and store the canvas in a dry location, this gives you the opportunity to inspect for areas that need repair and zippers that need repair. The curtains or windows should be dry clean and rolled for storage. Never fold or crush the windows as they will crack along these folds. Remember in the off season it is the ideal time to have repairs, replacement or modifications made to your canvas covers. While the boat is in storage it is important to treat the exterior seats with the same care as the interior seats lift them up and allow the air to move around them. Open all lockers and hatches for the same reasons prevent excessive mold. In the spring when the temperatures start to climb all the moisture trapped in the boat attempts to evaporate this will cause mold any where the moisture cannot reach the outer environment. Remember NO BOAT BUILDERS RECOMMEND PLASTIC AS A STORAGE SOLUTION!

 

OUT OF WATER

Information from Discover Boating

Pressure wash hull, clean barnacles off props and shafts, rudders, struts and trim tabs. Clean all thru-hulls and strainers. Open seacocks to allow any water to drain. Check the hull for blisters and if you find any that should be attended to you might want to open them to drain over the winter. While you're at it, why not give the hull a good wax job? It is probably best to take the batteries out of the boat and take them home and either put them on a trickle charger or charge them every 30-60 days.

 

Response from Boat Nut Magazine

 

 The method of pressure washing works great if you have bottom paint on the hull, however without bottom paint it can be a different situation. Pressure washing works at its best if you get the hull cleaned immediately after haul out (Right Away). If you have no bottom paint then it maybe necessary to used a acid cleaning. To complete an acid clean you must be aware of how to protect the boat the environment, yourself and the trailer. Boat Nut Magazine will prepare an article on Acid Cleaning for boaters who want the bottom to look like new for the next season. If you find blisters on the hull have a professional inspect the areas, there are several reasons for blisters and opening them up without any knowledge of what you are assessing can be detrimental to determining the cause. If you leave the blisters until the spring to have assessed then you are defeating the purpose in having the blisters looked at many types of bottom blisters will dry up over the winter and appear to have gone away. There not they will be back next season and quite often worse and larger in size. Maintaining gelcoat finishes with wax or compounds only works when there is correct temperatures to cold and the materials will not be effective. Pick the days you compound and wax carefully.

 

IN WATER STORAGE 

Information from Discover Boating

Close all seacocks and check rudder shafts and stuffing boxes for leaks, tighten or repack as necessary. Check your battery to make sure it is fully charged, clean terminals, add water if necessary and make sure your charging system is working. Check bilge pumps to ensure they are working and that float switches properly activate the pumps and that they are not hindered by debris. Make sure either to check your boat periodically or have the marina check it and report to you. If in an area where the water you are docked or moored in actually freezes, you should have a de-icing device or bubbling system around your boat.

 

Response from Boat Nut Magazine

Boat Nut Magazine will follow this subject up with an article dedicated to this topic soon!

 

 

This information is not a how to guide nor is this information intended to make you a pro at winterizing. It is to educate you that there are situations that can appear that will effect the ability of antifreeze to be effective in preventing freezing ( Anti freeze can freeze it is just designed not to expand, unlike water which can grow to nine times its liquid size in volume). This information will also demonstrate that there is more than one way to winterize, and without being boat specific there is no way to be sure that you are protected. No one can show or tell you with any certainty without knowing the details of your boat that you have winterized your boat with any guaranty. In some cases a combination of techniques may be best for your boat, as some systems maybe hard to locate. It is also important to note that not all motors are the same (even the same model may have several types of drain systems) there may be no drains where you expect and others where your not looking. Simply running antifreeze through your boats systems does not in any way mean that your boat is protected you must have knowledge of your boats systems to be sure you are doing the right techniques. If you have invested in a brand new boat or do not feel confident hire a pro, its not cheap but you will know that if there is a problem that you have not voided a warranty or insurance plan.

Once you have a plan in place and have a clear understanding of the types of pumps, sizes of hoses and lines you need to work with. You can design and create adaptors and hose fittings for each system so you can hook up your antifreeze container or air lines to make the process of winterizing quicker and easier to complete. You should only struggle the first year with your boat after that you will find the whole process a lot less time consuming and be able to accurately purchase the necessary supplies without waste. Come up with a system that works for you everyone has an opinion or advise some will be ok lots will not apply to your boat!

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

http://boatnutmagazine.com/

Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided.