Wednesday, 20 July 2016

HOW DO I KNOW MY TRUCK WILL BE OK TO TOW MY BOAT?


                                                            


HOW DO I KNOW MY TRUCK WILL BE OK TO TOW MY BOAT?



I am still taken back by a trip to the local boat ramp. The things I see are frightful. It is bad enough that the trailers are incorrectly set up for the loads being placed on them, deep launches with the tow vehicle half way into the water, the absolute lack of proper safety tie downs. One of the scariest things of all are some of  the tow vehicles that are being used to move these boats through our streets. You can move a trailer loaded with a boat with a ride lawn tractor but that doesn't make it at all safe! Its not the getting going that is the issue its the stopping and safe control of the trailer and the tow vehicle. There must be ten thousand video segments on boat launch and retrieval, are they all that bad(well maybe), boat launching is an experience skill no doubt. For gods sake if your going to own and operate a trailer boat which includes all those jet ski boaters who by the way are just as bad at the ramp then learn something about your tow vehicle and trailer and spend some time here. The wrong set up is not only dangerous for the owner of the tow vehicle, but is more dangerous for the rest of the traffic and pedestrians on the road. Have you ever dipped the back brakes of your truck in the salt water drove to the first traffic light and locked up the rear tires of your tow vehicle, it is unnerving.





The following information is to help you understand how to be sure the vehicle you are towing with is up for the job!




DISCLAIMER




This guide is for general reference; other states, province’s or municipalities regulations may differ.

This guide applies solely to the non-commercial operation of trailers. Trailer
combinations operated for commercial purposes are governed by different regulations
and standards.


HOW TO DETERMINE GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT RATINGS FOR RECREATIONAL

VEHICLES



If hauling a camper unit, towing a loaded boat trailer or fifth wheel, the following steps will help you in determining what your vehicle is capable of towing or hauling. This guide is intended to assist you. Should conflict arise please refer to the Traffic Safety Act and its regulations for your specific region.





Terms and Definitions




“Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR)”; the GAWR refers to the maximum weight an axle

is designed to carry. The GAWR is a safety standard used to prevent overloading.



Manufacturers set the Gross Axle Weight Rating based on requirements set by

Transport Canada.(Or the governing body in your region)



“Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)”; the GVWR refers to the maximum weight a

vehicle is designed to carry including the net weight of the vehicle with accessories, plus

the weight of passengers, fuels, and cargo. The GVWR is a safety standard used to
prevent overloading. Manufacturers set the GVWR based on requirements set by
Transport Canada. The weight on an axle can vary depending on where items are
stored.



“Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR)”; the GCWR, sometimes expressed as the

maximum trailer towing capacity, may change with different engine, transmission, and

differential combinations, and is normally found in the owner's manual. The GCWR is
the maximum weight of the truck and trailer combined. The maximum trailer towing
capacity is the maximum weight of a trailer which may be towed when your truck is
empty (no payload), any load carried in the truck will reduce its maximum trailer towing
capacity.



“Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)” is the number of kilograms derived by adding the weights

on all the axles of your loaded vehicle.




“Net Weight” is the weight of a vehicle that is empty except for the maximum capacity of

fuel, oil, and coolant necessary for its operation. (ALSO referred to as “CURB Weight”)


(MVAR)


Conversion


To convert: Multiply kilogram by 2.2

Divide pounds by 2.2

Net (CURB) Weight of the Vehicle Used to Tow or Haul



• Weigh the front axle and rear axle of the vehicle

• Add front and rear axle weight to achieve Net Vehicle Weight

o For example:

􀂃 Front axle weight equals – 1200 kg

􀂃 Rear axle weight equals – 1400 kg

􀂃 Total Net Vehicle Weight equals – 2600 kg




Manufactured Gross Vehicle Weight Rating




• Refer to the manufacturer’s Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (located on drivers side

door)




• Refer to Diagram:








• In this case the GVWR is 5171 kg, the front GAWR is 2722 kg and the rear





GAWR is 3175



• Note:

o The front and rear GAWR’s added together will always be greater than

the GVWR


YOU SHOULD NEVER EXCEED THESE THREE RATINGS








Vehicle Payload



• once the Net Weight and GVWR has been determined, subtract the Net Vehicle

Weight from the GVWR




o For example:

􀂃 GVWR equals – 5171 kg

􀂃 Net Weight equals – 2600 kg

􀂃 Vehicle Payload equals 2571 kg





Trailer Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)



• The previous steps also apply to recreational trailers when determining its

carrying capacity




• Locate the manufacturer’s GVWR label (located near the front of the trailer,

accompanied by the VIN number)




• Subtract the net trailer weight from the GVWR; this will give you the actual

carrying capacity of the recreational trailer



 NEVER EXCEED THIS WEIGHT CAPACITY





EXAMPLES




Truck and Camper Unit
Manufacturer’s Ratings



• GVWR = 2800 kg

• Front GAWR = 1600 kg

• Rear GAWR = 1400 kg





Vehicle Net Weight (without camper unit)



• Net Weight = 1900 kg

• Front Axle = 1200 kg

• Rear Axle = 700 kg





Gross Vehicle Weight (loaded)

• GVW = 3900 kg

• Front Axle Weight = 1450 kg

• Rear Axle Weight = 2450 kg





Vehicle Payload



• GVWR 2800 kg – Net Weight 1900 kg = Payload 900 kg


THIS UNIT HAS EXCEEDED THE GVWR BY 1100 kg AND THE REAR GAWR BY


1050 kg











Truck Towing Recreational Trailer
Manufacturer’s Ratings



• GVWR = 3800 kg

• Front GAWR = 1600 kg

• Rear GAWR = 2400 kg





Vehicle Net Weight (without trailer)



• Net Weight = 2100 kg

• Front Axle = 1200 kg

• Rear Axle = 900






Gross Vehicle Weight of Truck (loaded)



• GVW = 3300 kg

• Front Axle Weight = 1200 kg

• Rear Axle Weight = 2100 kg





Vehicle Payload



• GVWR 3800kg – Net Weight 2100 kg = Payload 1700 kg


THIS UNIT HAS NOT EXCEEDED THE MANUFACTURER’S GVWR OR THE GAWR






*CALCULATE YOUR VEHICLES PAYLOAD



Manufacturer’s Rating (Door Post)


• GVWR =

• Front GAWR =

• Rear GAWR =





Vehicle Net Weight (Empty)



• Net Weight

• Front Axle

• Rear Axle





Gross Vehicle Weight (loaded)



• GVW

• Front Axle Weight

• Rear Axle Weight







Vehicle Payload



• GVWR – Net Weight = Payload





*To convert:



• Multiply kg by 2.2

• Divide lbs by 2.2


KEY FACTORS TO REMEMBER





• You should not exceed manufacturer’s GVWR

• You should not exceed manufacturer’s GAWR

• Adding components such as air bags or overload springs does not allow these

rating to be increased or exceeded




• When coupled to a trailer unit or fifth wheel remember each unit will transition

weight to the towing unit (hitch weight). Take this into consideration when

determining the GVWR and GAWR.



• Make sure fifth wheel mounts and ball receiver hitches are rated accordingly and
do not to exceed the manufacturers ratings

• Ensure tire pressure is maintained according to manufacturers specifications

• You should not exceed the GCWR. Check your owner’s manual for the GCWR

(towing capabilities). If you tow a load that is too heavy for your vehicle, you

create a potential safety risk for yourself and others on the road. You may also
void warranties.





Tires





• The original manufacturer of your vehicle and trailer will designate acceptable tire

sizes and type; any replacement tires should meet these requirements. A couple

requirements that apply to tires to be aware of:



o On-highway vehicles must use tires that are designed for on-highway use

o Tires have a rated carrying capacity, the sum of the total rated capacity for

the tires on an axle must be greater than the GAWR




o All tires that share an axle be the

same




BRAKING REQUIREMENTS FOR TRAILERS

When are Brakes Required on Trailers



• If the trailer has a gross laden weight more than 910 kg

• If the trailer weighs 50 per cent or more of the towing vehicle





Types of Brakes Required



• The service brakes on a motor vehicle or on a combination of vehicles are

adequate if they can bring the motor vehicle or combination to a stop




o if the motor vehicle or combination is moving at 30 kilometres per hour and

loaded to capacity when the brakes are applied,




o on a level surface free from loose materials and consisting of dry paving of
asphalt or concrete, and




o within 10 metres from the point at which the brakes are applied

• The emergency or parking brake on a motor vehicle or on a combination of

vehicles is adequate if it can bring the motor vehicle or combination to a stop




o if the motor vehicle or combination is moving at 30 kilometres per hour and

loaded to capacity when the brake is applied,




o on a level surface free from loose materials and consisting of dry paving of

asphalt or concrete, and




o within 16 metres from the point at which the brake is applied

• The brakes on a vehicle that tows a trailer are adequate if they are capable of

controlling the safe movement of the towing unit





• The emergency brake or parking brake system of a motor vehicle or combination

of vehicles must hold the motor vehicle or combination at a stop if they are

loaded to capacity and facing up or down a 20 per cent grade

Trailer Breakaway Device



• A breakaway device is not specifically required in all legislation. The owner

must maintain the vehicle combination in a safe operating condition.




• A person shall not drive or operate a vehicle that is towing a trailer unless the

trailer is attached to the towing unit by two separate means of attachment

designed so that the failure of one attachment does not permit the trailer to
separate from the towing unit



• Each means of attachment must have sufficient strength to pull all the weight

towed by the towing unit







• The secondary means of attachment must be capable of

o towing the trailer so that the trailer substantially follows in the track of the

towing vehicle, and




o preventing the drawbar of the trailer or the primary means of attachment from

touching the road surface



• The lead trailer in a combination is the towing unit for the second trailer

• A fifth wheel trailer does not require a second means of attachment






EXAMPLES



In these scenarios the trailer may or may not be required to have brakes but the brakes
for the vehicle combination are still required to adequately stop the combination (see
types of brakes required section, pg. 8).

Trailer Exceeds 910 kg and Weighs More Than 50% of the Towing Vehicle Weight

BRAKES ARE REQUIRED ON TRAILER

Trailer Does Not Exceed 910 kg and Weighs Less Than 50% of Towing Vehicle Weight
and Consists of a Single Axle


BRAKES ARE NOT REQUIRED ON TRAILER


Trailer weighs more than 910 kg and is Less Than 50% of Towing Vehicle Weight




TOWING NUMEROUS TRAILERS





• Two trailers can only be towed if the lead trailer is a fifth wheel trailer with at least

two axles in tandem.




• The length from the front of the towing vehicle to the rear of the last trailer can

not exceed 20 metres




• The hitch fastening the second trailer to the first trailer must be fastened to the

frame of the first trailer




• The longer trailer must be the first trailer



Trailers: Federal Lighting Equipment Location Requirements





Equipment Locations

















To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.


http://boatnutmagazine.com/





Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided

IMPORTANT NOTE: Every lamp, reflex reflector, and conspicuity treatment must be permanently attached in the location specified below and must comply with all applicable requirements prescribed for it by FMVSS/CMVSS 108.  The face of any device on the front/rear and sides should be, respectively perpendicular and parallel to the vehicles centerline unless it is photometrically certified at installation angle.  No part of the vehicle shall prevent any device from meeting its prescribed requirements unless an auxiliary device meeting all prescribed requirements is installed.
IN CANADA: Manufacturers and importers of vehicles must have the proper certification test records demonstrating compliance of lighting components with all prescribed requirements.

BASIC EQUIPMENT REQUIRED ON ALL TRAILERS

 DESCRIPTION  MANDATORY REQUIREMENTS
Area Equipment SAE Lens Coding Functional Purpose Quantity Colour Location Height mm (in.) from ground
 1   Tail Lamps (T) Indicate vehicle's presence and width Minimum
2
Red On the rear - symmetrical as far apart as practicable 380-1830
(15-72)
Stop Lamps (S) Indicate braking Minimum
2
Red On the rear - symmetrical as far apart as practicable 380-1830
(15-72)
Rear Turn Signal Lamps (I) Indicate direction of turn Minimum
2
Red or Yellow On the rear - symmetrical as far apart as practicable 380-2110
(15-83)
Rear Reflex Reflectors (A) Indicate vehicle's presence and width Minimum
2
Red On the rear - symmetrical as far apart as practicable facing rearward 380-1530
(15-60)
2 License Plate Lamp(s) (L) Illuminates license plate Minimum
1
White On the rear - above or at the sides of license plate No requirement
3 Rear Side Marker Lamps (P2, PC* OR P3, PC2*)
*photometrically certified at installation angle
Indicate vehicle's presence and length Minimum
2
Red Each side at rear as far back as practicable 380-1530 (15-60)
no max. for veh. under 2032mm (80"") wide
Rear Side Reflex Reflectors (A) Indicate vehicle's presence and length Minimum
2
Red Each side at rear as far back as practicable facing sideward 380-1530
(15-60)
4 4aFront Side Marker Lamps (P2, PC* OR P3, PC2*)
*photometrically certified at installation angle
Indicate vehicle's presence and length Minimum
2
Yellow Each side at front as far forward as practicable 380 (15) minimum
4bFront Side Reflex Reflectors (A) Indicate vehicle's presence and length Minimum
2




                   
Yellow Each side at front as far forward as practicable facing sideward 380-1530
(15

Tuesday, 19 July 2016

DIY PROJECT # 101 / REMOTE FUEL GAUGE











                                                                Image result for do it yourself


PROJECT REMOTE FUEL GAUGE






Every time power boaters frequent the gas dock they have a decision to make based on liters/ gallons, or the decision is based on a dollar value. Ultimately determining how much fuel you are planning to purchase. Either decision will make matching volume in a dual tank boats difficult. When we do ask for the fuel tank(s) to be topped up, boaters and  gas dock attendants are creating the risk of over flowing the cap or burping gas out the vent or the filler cap.

So what would be the simplest way to try and prevent this from happening?


Image result for marine fuel filling





There is a simple way to keep track of volume during fueling and to understand what is going on in your gas tank (rather than the attendant trying to read the level at the gas filler cap) as the tank gets close to full. Add a remote fuel gauge, placed in a location on the vessel were the gas dock assistant and the boat owner can see how much fuel is being pumped into your boat fuel tank. Boaters will want to mount the remote fuel gauge in a location where it will allow you to view the remote gauge clearly, and not be in the way of other accessories mounted on the vessel.






Image result for marine fuel gauge
This project will require a fuel gauge, a rocker switch at the dash and a few feet of wire sized and colored to match your fuel gauge sender wires (almost always pink, black and blue) and a little imagination when it comes to placement of the remote fuel gauge. This simple addition will allow you to watch the fuel level rise as the attendant pumps the fuel. The boater can make a decision when to stop. No more getting on and off the boat during the fueling process (which is unsafe and in a lot of cases not allowed). If your boat has dual tanks you can match the volume side to side more accurately. The cost in labor to complete this small project is 1 hour of your time plus a modest budget, for electrical supplies and a fuel gauge (which is not an expensive item to buy). To complete this project you do not need to open up the fuel tank. This project simply requires piggy backing onto the sender wires only.(Remember that this is per side if you have dual gas tanks.)

Image result for marine fuel gauge wiring




This project that will provide both the boat owner and the gas dock attendant convenience, with the added bonus of protecting the environment from spills into our lakes, rivers and oceans. For you gas can boaters you can be more accurate with your fuel fill. If you want to go all out you can attach the gauge light to your courtesy light circuit and provide light at night in the general area that you locate the remote fuel gauge (this will require running the blue wire).





On a do it yourself scale this is moderate, not at all hard you will have to have basic 12volt electrical experience. Tools to complete this job are very straight forward, you will require :


Small hole saw to match the gauge install instructions
Wire cutters
Stripper/ crimp tool
Socket set or small wrench set
Having some basic hand tools will always be a necessity boat (screw drivers and pliers etc).
Label maker if you wish
Wire ties





What you end up with is a remote fuel gauge that you can turn on and off when fueling up, as a bonus gets you another curtsy light in the location you choose to mount the remote gauge. As the installer you must have enough space  behind the chosen install area to accept the gauge and the wiring that you are adding.



No more guess work at the fuel dock,( if an attendant begins to fill the wrong tank, such as the water tank he or she will notice before the incorrect tank is full)

This is a do it yourself project that will provide the boater with a great deal of convenience at the gas dock



Order the How To Video from Boat Nut all you pay is shipping! 

 Order at: boatnutmedia@gmail.com

DIY PROJECT 101



To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.



Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
Connect with the Magazine web site 




Saturday, 16 July 2016

CONTAMINATED FUEL/ WATER IN FUEL



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      CONTAMINATED FUEL/ WATER IN GAS PART 1 


        Contaminated fuel is like a dog with a bone it will not give let go!



 It will give you more motor running problems then you can imagine! Quite often when you think that you have beat the issue, the contamination is all gone, then mechanical failures show up. Contaminated fuel will come back to get your motor again and again. So how does the fuel get contaminated with water and other debris, and what are the effects to your boat motor?

First off lets discuss how this contamination can happen:  Gas caps and the fuel vents are the first common sense place to look for a point of  water entry into your gas tank. When you look at power boats there are generally two different types of fuel caps.

 


The first type of fuel cap is the self venting cap. This is a filler cap that includes a built in vent. The vent allows the tank to expand and contract with temperature variations. The vent also allows the tank to expel air during the filling process and allow air to enter the tank while the fuel is being consumed.



*This type of cap quite often has a large inside rubber gasket that seals off the filler pipe when closed while leaving the vent to be able to breath air for expansion and contraction and varying fuel levels. In many cases were the fuel in the tank has become contaminated the gasket which seals the filler pipe is damaged or missing. Meaning that in the rain or while washing your power boat the water can pass the cap and enter the filler pipe, down the filler hose to the fuel tank.
Image result for marine gas caps



*The second type of fuel cap is the screw type fuel filler cap: These caps generally require a deck key to open them. The cap threads into the filler pipe. There are two major issues with this type of cap one there is a rubber o ring that creates a seal under the cap lid which maybe missing or damaged. The filler cap maybe deck mounted in such a fashion that rain water or wash down water may pool on top off the cap.Giving the water lots of time to work past the cap and enter the tank.
Image result for marine gas cap




*The fuel vent: The fuel vent is mounted on the hull side and is used in conjunction with a non vented fuel filler cap. The vent could be turned so that the air opening is facing in a direction were when either running the boat, while raining or washing the water may enter the vent and thus get into the tank through the fuel tank vent line.
Image result for marine gas caps



                   The other factors that may allow water to enter the fuel tank are:

Environment VS Volume of fuel in tank;  This means that if the volume of fuel is never topped up and or the boat lives in an area were the temperature can make large swings the fuel tank can sweat thus water will build up over time. (This also occurs when the boat has been stored for lengths of time without use).
Please keep in mind that current fuels that contain methanol will absorb water, compounding the problem.

You may have purchased contaminated fuel at the fuel provider. What can also happen at a full serve gas dock is that the attendant mixes up which cap is which and water is accidentally added to the fuel or visa versa were fuel ends up in the water. Any Power Boater who has been around awhile has seen this happen.




Off course there is always the possibility that the contamination is from the tank fitting themselves there are bad signs that go along with this issue, the primary sign is that there is an issue with tank fittings failing is the smell of fuel in the bilge or near the tank.


NEVER START OR RUN A POWER BOAT IF THERE IS THE ODOR OF FUEL IN THE BILGE ALWAYS HAVE THE VESSEL CHECKED BY A PROFESSIONAL TO LOCATE THE PROBLEM!



Image result for water in gas


  How do I know if the tank is contaminated:




1- The way the engine runs (or doesn't run) will be the first sign of issues it will loose power, and start to run rough. The motor will hesitate and sound like it is miss firing and likely stall. Another sign is hard starting with  a hard time idling, stalling through the shift and popping while running. The motor will also create white smoke out the exhaust. Do not get me wrong there are other issues that can cause these same issues,                          
You have more checking to do to confirm contaminated fuel.




2- If you have a fuel filter in line between the tank and the motor, This filter is a canister and should look like an oil filter. This filter traps water that is leaving the tank on its way to the motor and should be changed in a regular maintenance schedule. To check the condition of the fuel in the filter remove the filter and pour the contents into a clear glass container and allow the fuel to settle for several minutes if the filter is trapping contamination you will see the water sink to the bottom of the glass container (it will look like clear jelly at the bottom). This dump the fuel out of the filter test it is not always accurate as some filters trap water and the only way to know if the filter is contaminated is to change it. 

. Image result for marine fuel filter water separator



3- Remove the fuel line at the filter or fuel pump and draw some fuel from the tank direct and let the fuel settle. Check the bottom of the clear glass container  you are using to inspect fuel samples for water. ( BE SURE THAT YOU DUMP THE FUEL FROM YOUR GLASS CONTAINER AND CLEAN AND DRY BEFORE POURING A NEW SAMPLE TO VIEW) The amount of contamination you find is important to how you remove the water from the tank.




4-No in line fuel filter to dump and inspecting the fuel from the tank is to risky. There is another way to check for water. Take off the flame arrester on the top off the carburetor or throttle body on the top of the motor.(While the motor is not running) Spray some WD40 around the top edges of the carburetor or throttle body. Not a lot just a thin coat and start the motor the spray from the injectors or the mist from the carburetor will contain water and white spots will show up in the WD40. The water will also build up and run down barrel openings of the body.



5- Remove the spark plugs and check the color of the end were the spark takes place. You can read the way a motor is burning fuel by the color on the plugs.
Image result for spark plug burn




6- If you have experience with fuel you can dip your fingers in the fuel at the carburetor or under the injector spray and see the water it will form little bubbles in the fuel.






   So I have contaminated fuel what can happen to my motor if I continue to operate my boat?



Several issues can and do occur if you run the boat on contaminated fuel:


The first of which is the ignition system will start to fail. Due to the fact that you are trying to ignite fuel that is not wanting to burn properly. The coil wire can burn off, the coil can fail. The cap, rotor, wires and plugs will live a much shorter life. If the ignition side of your boat suddenly fails one of the reasons could be contaminated gas.



The next thing on a carburetor motor is the carburetor itself will act up. The water that does get through the system can corrode the inside parts of the carburetor. This causes flooding and stalling. You may have to rebuild or at the very least service the carburetor. The carburetor can give you issues hours after or years after running on contaminated fuel as the damage on the inside can get worse when the boat is stored or sees a reduction in running hours.




Image result for carburetor marine




Image result for marine efi throttle body




A newer boat with throttle body injection can suffer far more problems. This is a brief list:
Fuel Pump
Injectors
Fuel filter in cooler
Sender failure
Over fuel dumping at injectors
Computer codes
And if you have a hard start even gas in motor oil


Water in Fuel will also eat up spark plugs


The bottom line is contaminated fuel could be and quite often is the culprit of a bad running motor quite often over looked and dismissed as needing a tune up that leads to more and more service. Contaminated fuel can be a costly situation to have to deal with if you only tackle one failure at a time, as they show up. If you have water in the fuel be prepared to go all the way other wise you could have the I AM BACK AT THE DOCK BLUES over and over until the whole system is serviced







To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.



Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
Connect with the Magazine web site 




 




Part 2 will discuss how to get ride of the gremlins contaminated fuel will produce.