Lost My Edge / Effects of a Damaged Prop and Skeg

 

 

 

Lost My Edge / Effects of a Damaged Prop and Skeg

 

 

 Props and Skeg that are damaged or out of tune.

 Most boaters believe that the reason for bad performance, issues with hole shot or top end flat lining of power must be related to the way the motor(s) is (are) running. There is some truth to this, if you have weak spark, fuel delivery (bad fuel) issue or the engine is failing to advance the timing then yes the boat will run like crap. However if the motors are running well and the boat is still a dog then you need to assess the prop(s) and the skeg.

Props will go out of pitch over time, it is a given the blades are trying to flex under load and they eventually loose their pitch. You should every couple of seasons take the props off and send them to a repair shop were they re-pitch (tune) the props for you. Should you all of a sudden notice a difference in the way the boat performs than you may have hit something or mowed through a chunk of wood (not even knowing it) This is not as uncommon as you may think. The prop is where all the work is done to move your boat through the water. You can have a perfectly tuned motor but if you cannot make the prop bite the water, it is all for not. A badly damaged prop will cause vibration through the boat and will damage bearings and seals at the prop shaft as that vibration is passed down the shaft.

 

 

What is happening to your boat when the blades are out of pitch.

 

When the prop is out of tune, the blades are trying to travel different distances through the water at the same time this will cause cavitation or aeration at the blades, this water can be so hot it will burn the paint off the prop. When this is happening the prop starts to slip, and the push of the prop is lost. An example of this would be at the top end of the throttle you push the throttle down and the engine just revs and there is no more push by the prop to match the increase in the RPM, or as you move up through the RPM range the speed of the boat does not move smoothly up with motor and eventually the speed catches up. This is all prop slip and if you look behind you in the wash you will notice excessive air or bubbles in the wash. The reaction is similar to driving with the drive trim to high.  Should you see that one or all blades of the prop have the paint worn of the faces of the blades (it will look like the prop was sand blasted). This is a sure sign of bad cavitation and the prop or the case has to be fixed or tuned. 

 

 

Cavitation can also be caused by the flow of water that the prop has to work in. The skeg at the bottom of the gear case can disrupt the water flow to the prop. If it is bent or damaged the water getting to the prop already contains air and the effect on the prop is cavitation. A damaged skeg will affect steering, create a pull to the right or the left, lack of low speed control, Bad pull to one side or the other (at low speed), slipping at high speed when cornering, large damage can also effect the flow of water to the water pick up used for engine cooling. As a matter of fact any damage to the lower gear case will be detrimental to the running of the boat and or the performance of the boat.

 

 

Damage to the lower gear case , which includes the cavitation plate above the prop is not the way you want to operate your boat at all. Leaving damage not only effects the way the boat performs, but will lead to corrosion setting into the metal and in some cases were cracks have occurred contaminated gear oil, and additional gear case pieces falling off.


 

Aluminum props are continually flexing as you power up, and are the most susceptible to pitch variations, One blade or all blades maybe out of sinc with each other. If you have a chip or a bend in the blade or blades then you have completely defeated the props expected performance. These props are the easiest and cheapest to have repaired, If you have a damaged aluminum prop take it to your local prop repair facility and have them assess the damage and let you know if it can be fixed. You cannot just keep repairing props over and over there is a limit to how many large repairs can be done. Always keep a spare on board with the tools you need to change the prop. Never try to change the prop in water were you cannot reach the bottom easily, it is common to drop parts or the whole prop.

 

Stainless Props are less likely to flex under load which makes them a popular choice with boaters. do not assume that because the prop is painted black that it is aluminum. There are black painted stainless props. Stainless props have a draw back, if you are a new boater or operate your boat in a body of water that has a hard bottom such as rocks, beware. With an aluminum prop you can hit a hard object and knock a whole blade off and usually not damage the inner workings of the gear case. With stainless steel the blades are so durable that damage to the inner workings of the gear case is inevitable. The way to try and prevent this is with a break away hub inside the prop between the prop and the shaft so at the moment of impact the plastic hub will break into pieces and save the inner workings of the gear case. If  a stainless prop is actually wedged up against something I have seen the coupler on the engine sheer before anything else. This is were the drive shaft from the out drive couples to the engine the repair in this case requires pulling the drive and the motor out of the boat.
 

Stainless Props also need attention it is a good idea to have the stainless props checked and tuned by a prop shop if you require the shop can also custom tune these props giving you a pitch to better suite your needs let the repair shop know what you are trying to achieve in performance and they can adjust the pitch by a half a pitch up or down. This really works and the difference  in performance and fuel burn can be out standing. Stainless props can also be repaired if you do manage to bend or chip a blade, expect to spend more money repairing a stainless prop.

 

 

Gear Case damage can in 90 % of the cases be repaired by the same repair shop that handles your prop repairs. Never assume that the case can be repaired however this is due to the fact that the heat from the repair can change the shape of or do damage to the inner workings of the gear case. Gear Case repairs must be done by someone with gear case experience! If the leading edge of the skeg has small chips you can file the edge to a clean as new finish with out removing the gear case from the boat. If you have a damaged gear case and plan to remove the case yourself and have it repaired there are a few TIPS for you.

• Contact the repair shop and ask if they require the gear oil drained out before they fix the gear case
• Ask for an estimate when they PU or when you drop the damaged gear case off
• If they paint the repaired gear case ask the repair shop if they use zinc chromate primer, if the answer is no tell them you will paint the repair yourself
• Always use the correct zinc primer on gear case repairs before you top coat
• Do not paint with cheap spray paint buy quality paint for repairs.
• Always pressure check the drive before refilling with gear oil to be sure that the heat from the repair has not damaged a seal.
• Always test drive the repaired gear case before you head out on your first big trip.

By keeping the props and gear cases on your boat in good working order you will get the best performance they can give you. You cannot expect the same performance out of a three year old prop as you would a new one with out maintenance. Of all the money we spend on or boats to me the prop is the most overlooked for maintenance and the prop to your annual list of things to do and you will be paid back in fuel burn and in performance when your out on the water. Basic prop maintenance is not expensive and if you are a seasonal boater what better time to send the prop in to be tuned then when the boat is laid up for the winter!








 

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Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
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CONTAMINATED FUEL/ WATER IN FUEL

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      CONTAMINATED FUEL/ WATER IN GAS PART 1 

        Contaminated fuel is like a dog with a bone it will not give let go!

 It will give you more motor running problems then you can imagine! Quite often when you think that you have beat the issue, the contamination is all gone, then mechanical failures show up. Contaminated fuel will come back to get your motor again and again. So how does the fuel get contaminated with water and other debris, and what are the effects to your boat motor?

First off lets discuss how this contamination can happen:  Gas caps and the fuel vents are the first common sense place to look for a point of  water entry into your gas tank. When you look at power boats there are generally two different types of fuel caps.

 

The first type of fuel cap is the self venting cap. This is a filler cap that includes a built in vent. The vent allows the tank to expand and contract with temperature variations. The vent also allows the tank to expel air during the filling process and allow air to enter the tank while the fuel is being consumed.

*This type of cap quite often has a large inside rubber gasket that seals off the filler pipe when closed while leaving the vent to be able to breath air for expansion and contraction and varying fuel levels. In many cases were the fuel in the tank has become contaminated the gasket which seals the filler pipe is damaged or missing. Meaning that in the rain or while washing your power boat the water can pass the cap and enter the filler pipe, down the filler hose to the fuel tank.

*The second type of fuel cap is the screw type fuel filler cap: These caps generally require a deck key to open them. The cap threads into the filler pipe. There are two major issues with this type of cap one there is a rubber o ring that creates a seal under the cap lid which maybe missing or damaged. The filler cap maybe deck mounted in such a fashion that rain water or wash down water may pool on top off the cap.Giving the water lots of time to work past the cap and enter the tank.

*The fuel vent: The fuel vent is mounted on the hull side and is used in conjunction with a non vented fuel filler cap. The vent could be turned so that the air opening is facing in a direction were when either running the boat, while raining or washing the water may enter the vent and thus get into the tank through the fuel tank vent line.

                   The other factors that may allow water to enter the fuel tank are:

Environment VS Volume of fuel in tank;  This means that if the volume of fuel is never topped up and or the boat lives in an area were the temperature can make large swings the fuel tank can sweat thus water will build up over time. (This also occurs when the boat has been stored for lengths of time without use).

Please keep in mind that current fuels that contain methanol will absorb water, compounding the problem.

You may have purchased contaminated fuel at the fuel provider. What can also happen at a full serve gas dock is that the attendant mixes up which cap is which and water is accidentally added to the fuel or visa versa were fuel ends up in the water. Any Power Boater who has been around awhile has seen this happen.

Off course there is always the possibility that the contamination is from the tank fitting themselves there are bad signs that go along with this issue, the primary sign is that there is an issue with tank fittings failing is the smell of fuel in the bilge or near the tank.

NEVER START OR RUN A POWER BOAT IF THERE IS THE ODOR OF FUEL IN THE BILGE ALWAYS HAVE THE VESSEL CHECKED BY A PROFESSIONAL TO LOCATE THE PROBLEM!

  How do I know if the tank is contaminated:

1- The way the engine runs (or doesn't run) will be the first sign of issues it will loose power, and start to run rough. The motor will hesitate and sound like it is miss firing and likely stall. Another sign is hard starting with  a hard time idling, stalling through the shift and popping while running. The motor will also create white smoke out the exhaust. Do not get me wrong there are other issues that can cause these same issues,                          

You have more checking to do to confirm contaminated fuel.

2- If you have a fuel filter in line between the tank and the motor, This filter is a canister and should look like an oil filter. This filter traps water that is leaving the tank on its way to the motor and should be changed in a regular maintenance schedule. To check the condition of the fuel in the filter remove the filter and pour the contents into a clear glass container and allow the fuel to settle for several minutes if the filter is trapping contamination you will see the water sink to the bottom of the glass container (it will look like clear jelly at the bottom). This dump the fuel out of the filter test it is not always accurate as some filters trap water and the only way to know if the filter is contaminated is to change it. 

.

3- Remove the fuel line at the filter or fuel pump and draw some fuel from the tank direct and let the fuel settle. Check the bottom of the clear glass container  you are using to inspect fuel samples for water. ( BE SURE THAT YOU DUMP THE FUEL FROM YOUR GLASS CONTAINER AND CLEAN AND DRY BEFORE POURING A NEW SAMPLE TO VIEW) The amount of contamination you find is important to how you remove the water from the tank.

4-No in line fuel filter to dump and inspecting the fuel from the tank is to risky. There is another way to check for water. Take off the flame arrester on the top off the carburetor or throttle body on the top of the motor.(While the motor is not running) Spray some WD40 around the top edges of the carburetor or throttle body. Not a lot just a thin coat and start the motor the spray from the injectors or the mist from the carburetor will contain water and white spots will show up in the WD40. The water will also build up and run down barrel openings of the body.

5- Remove the spark plugs and check the color of the end were the spark takes place. You can read the way a motor is burning fuel by the color on the plugs.

6- If you have experience with fuel you can dip your fingers in the fuel at the carburetor or under the injector spray and see the water it will form little bubbles in the fuel.

   So I have contaminated fuel what can happen to my motor if I continue to operate my boat?

Several issues can and do occur if you run the boat on contaminated fuel:

The first of which is the ignition system will start to fail. Due to the fact that you are trying to ignite fuel that is not wanting to burn properly. The coil wire can burn off, the coil can fail. The cap, rotor, wires and plugs will live a much shorter life. If the ignition side of your boat suddenly fails one of the reasons could be contaminated gas.

The next thing on a carburetor motor is the carburetor itself will act up. The water that does get through the system can corrode the inside parts of the carburetor. This causes flooding and stalling. You may have to rebuild or at the very least service the carburetor. The carburetor can give you issues hours after or years after running on contaminated fuel as the damage on the inside can get worse when the boat is stored or sees a reduction in running hours.

A newer boat with throttle body injection can suffer far more problems. This is a brief list:

Fuel Pump

Injectors

Fuel filter in cooler

Sender failure

Over fuel dumping at injectors

Computer codes

And if you have a hard start even gas in motor oil

Water in Fuel will also eat up spark plugs

The bottom line is contaminated fuel could be and quite often is the culprit of a bad running motor quite often over looked and dismissed as needing a tune up that leads to more and more service. Contaminated fuel can be a costly situation to have to deal with if you only tackle one failure at a time, as they show up. If you have water in the fuel be prepared to go all the way other wise you could have the I AM BACK AT THE DOCK BLUES over and over until the whole system is serviced

To guarantee access to all of  Boat Nut Magazine articles, pictures and featured services visit the official Boat Nut Magazine ©™ website. Be sure to reply to the Boat Nut Association registration on our site for the latest Boat Nut weekly and monthly news letters and opportunities.

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Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided
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Part 2 will discuss how to get ride of the gremlins contaminated fuel will produce.

MORE SOLID GREEN BOATING INFORMATION FOR YOU

 

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MORE ENVIRONMENTAL FACTS FOR YOU 

 

A portion of local water pollution comes from acids, oils, antifreeze, gasoline, solvents, and cleaners that boaters use. Many common items used daily by boaters are considered hazardous or toxic. As an environmentally aware boater, please minimize your use of toxic materials while maintaining your boat. Some toxic or hazardous materials are suspected carcinogens and can produce cancer in both humans and wildlife. Proper disposal of hazardous products is especially important in shallow lakes that have a large population of residences and boats. The toxins are in greater concentration and have a greater impact on the environment. If you don't make environmentally conscious decisions when purchasing boating equipment, you could be contributing to pollution.
The use of chlorofluorocarbons (CFC's) has been prevalent in the production of various equipment utilized while boating. Chlorofluorocarbons are gases that are depleting the earth's ozone layer, which is widely believed to contribute to global warming and increased risk of skin cancer. Ask vendors if CFC's are used in the manufacturing of their product, or if CFC's are released when using the product. If they do not know, ask them to find out. Most manufacturers who have switched to CFC alternatives are very vocal about using them. Those who don't utilize CFC alternatives need to know that this is an important issue which concerns environmentally aware consumers.

  FIRE EXTINGUISHERS

When fire extinguishers become exhausted or dated, many fire extinguisher supply companies offer recycling of them. Halon, CO2, wet and dry chemical extinguisher parts can be recycled at no charge. The metal nozzles and other parts are sorted for recycling. The remaining chemical inside the extinguisher is also properly recycled.

BATTERIES

Marine batteries can be harmful to the environment if they are simply thrown away. The internal chemicals can be toxic if released. The energy saved to create a new battery from a recycled one, as opposed to creating one from scratch, is about 95%. Old batteries (in most states and provinces) may be turned in at local recycling centers.

DETERGENTS

Phosphates, chemical compounds containing phosphorus, are found in most detergents. Manufacturers use them because they soften water and prevent dirt particles from being redeposited on whatever you are cleaning. Unfortunately, there are severe ecological side effects. As phosphates empty into streams and lakes, they cause algae bloom, which means that they fertilize algae to the point where it grows out of control. When algae dies (in its natural cycle), the bacteria that causes it to decay (a process requiring large amounts of oxygen) uses up the oxygen needed by other plants and marine life to survive.
This results in the dying of lakes and streams. According to Consumer Reports magazine, some manufacturers recommend more detergent than necessary. Use non-phosphate detergents and a little extra muscle instead of harsh and toxic teak and hull cleaners. Liquid detergents are generally phosphate-free. Use a substitute for detergent. Soap, which is biodegradable, non-polluting, and non-toxic, is an excellent alternative. If your water is soft, soap powder will work as well as a detergent. If your water is hard, you can try a combination of soap and washing soda. Soap also works best in hot water. Use a drop cloth to catch paint scrapings or wipe them up and dispose of them on shore. Be careful if you are working on or near the water. Wipe up any spills from oil changes as soon as they occur. Try to keep the use of engine cleaners to a minimum. Phosphates are not necessary. Powdered detergents are available that are made with different formulas which are less than 0.5% phosphates.

ANTI-FOULING PAINTS

Anti-fouling paint is used to prevent the growth of organisms on boat bottoms. These paints work by releasing toxic chemicals from the hull into the water. Generally, the more effective the paint, the more toxic its ingredients. Copper-based paints usually keep a hull clear for a year or more and contain a less toxic metallic compound which enables them to not cause as much damage to aquatic life. However, copper-based paints corrode aluminum. Avoid the newer tin-based paints such as Tributyltin (TBT). TBT is one of the most toxic chemicals introduced into the environment. It has now been found to cause abnormal development and reduced reproduction in aquatic life, not to mention its relation to many human health problems. It is illegal to use TBT on water craft less than 66 feet in length unless it is being applied to an aluminum boat. Since TBT is under restricted use, it can only be applied by certified applicators. For further information on becoming a certified applicator, contact the Pesticides Regulations Section in your state. Low level TBT paint, sold in a spray can form, may still be used on lower drive units. All paints should be used with extreme caution and according to the manufacturer's directions. 
Be aware when purchasing fire extinguishers containing halon gas. If you purchase a halon extinguisher, you may be contributing to the depletion of the ozone layer. At one time, halons and CFC's were considered harmless, so manufacturers used them in many different products as propellants. Unfortunately, these halons will eventually attack the ozone layer, even if the fire extinguishers are never used since the ozone-depleting gases gradually leak into the atmosphere. CO2-type extinguishers cannot really be reused since the extinguishers are loaded with a CO2 liquid which comes out as a gas when the extinguisher is used. CO2 is not harmful to the environment unless a large amount is released at one time. Recharging of non-halon fire extinguishers can also be performed by fire extinguisher suppliers for a nominal fee.

CLEANING AND REFURBISHING SUPPLIES

Lacquers, wood preservatives, turpentine, thinners, and other cleaners can be toxic unless they are used and disposed of properly. Please read the labels. Many products are available for cleaning decks and topsides. Their toxicities vary widely. Careful use of these cleaners is essential to keep them from washing overboard. It is best to not use these products when the boat is on the water. Many environmentally safe cleaning products are now available at local marine supply stores. A teak cleaner that is non-acidic, caustic free, chlorine-free, biodegradable, and safe if washed into the water. A bilge cleaner that is caustic-free, phosphate-free, non-flammable, non-combustible, and biodegradable has also been developed. A biodegradable, non-flammable, non-combustible, highly concentrated, phosphate-free, vinyl shampoo that will not harm the water has also been made available to boaters.

SIGNAL FLARES

When signal flares are expired, take them to your local fire department for proper disposal. The flares may still be volatile after the expiration date. Simply depositing them in the trash could lead to a hazardous situation. FOLLOW THESE TIPS WHILE USING HAZARDOUS MATERIALS TO KEEP AMERICAS WATER RESOURCES CLEAN AND HEALTHY: Try to find alternatives for some of the hazardous products that you use. Use biodegradable and low phosphate products when possible. Use turpentine or brush cleaners more than once before disposing of them properly. Draining off the clearer portion of turpentine and paint thinner after allowing the dirty portion to settle, facilitates reusing the solvents. Seal and store the unused portion of the hazardous material for later use or disposal. NEVER THROW IT OVERBOARD! Share supplies with fellow boaters...but make it your responsibility to always dispose of hazardous materials properly. If there is something hazardous that you must use, make it a practice to buy only what you need.

  EROSION

At first glance, erosion and boating don't seem to have much in common, but take a second look. Erosion of our shores and beaches is happening, and as a boater, you can help minimize the problem. If you frequent shallow waters of six feet or less, you can avoid damaging the ecosystem by going slowly
through these areas. By proceeding under power at a slower speed, you will stir up a lot less sediment. Scientists say that the frequent stirring up of sediments in shallow waters interrupts the natural life cycle of some plants and animals on which larger game fish feed. Furthermore, some of those stirred-up sediments are rich in chemicals that feed on algae blooms, which also can be deadly to fish. Boat wakes, the wave action created by a moving water craft, not only stir up sediment, but can also erode the banks of rivers, coves, and other confined waters. That eroded material settles in deeper channels, eventually requiring expensive dredging or, worse, keeping any boaters from enjoying these backwaters.

PREVENTING EROSION

Help to prevent shoreline erosion by reducing your wake. Reduce your boat speed before approaching buoy markers or when navigating close to shore. Obey "NO WAKE" zones. You are responsible for your WAKE, it's the law. Many boating areas have unmarked "SHORE ZONES" where boaters are required to operate at "NO WAKE" or idle speed. These zones can vary greatly. Know the rules at your favorite boating areas.

 

 Copyright 2015 © Boat Nut Media, Toronto, Ontario. All rights reserved. No part of this information/publications may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, magnetic, or other record, without prior agreement and written permission of the publisher, Boat Nuts Media ©™ No liability is assumed with respect to the information provided